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If I ever take it off I think I too will remove the circle flange. Looks much cleaner that way.

Now that I almost have my system completed I think I will go ahead and buy that manual control valve. I found the place on the internet and the price is about $18.00 plus shipping. I will keep my electrical valve in place for now, but I will have that manual valve just in case !

I plan to never drive through anything that deep, but remember " You never know ! " .

According to the spec sheet that came with the valve it says it will do what I need it to do. Of course only time will tell. If I could afford Aircraft parts I would use them, but I'm on a budget now and cost is a factor in everything I do now.

Good catch Gerhard. I didn't see that at all. Of course my eyes aren't what they used to be. Of course that could just be one of his new style pistons laying around.

It's mounted by the right fuel tank, remember ? I'll take some pictures tomorrow.

I hope your using "soft jaws" on that vise.

This is how my coolant heater is routed. Pictures one and three show on the right rear of the engine block how I removed the coolant plug and installed a shut-off valve. This goes to the coolant heater outlet. Picture two shows where I put the starter solenoid as it was mounted on the engine...

I forgot to mention that I used 1" spacers on the studs to hold it square against the firewall. Then I used Silicone to seal around the openings as seen in the first picture here. This last picture is my coolant heater. It is a "Hotstart" I bought from a member here (Derby) . They are extremely...

I was asked to repost my heater modifications and how I ran my hoses. I don't have all my pictures as most are still on the old computer that crashed (motherboard went out) . These should show how I made up the shorter box. Basically unbolted everything and then cut-off about 4" off the end that...

You probably need to replace them all. Tightening up the bolt will not help much as eventually you reach the end of the threads and the rubber is still worn down.

I would love to have a M60 tank ! That is after all what I served on in the Marines. I never knew they sold any though. I thought they all went to the scrapper or foreign countries. At 60 tons that would cost a pretty penny even in todays market.

Just thought about it for a few days and then said to myself "lets see what we can do" . I scrounged around for parts in the storage shed and came up with most of what I needed. Sometimes I get on my creeper and move around under the truck thinking how I can make things better or simpler. My...

The Slobber tank is installed now !. I still need to buy better hoses though. I plan on buying the reinforced hoses from "McMaster-Carr". The Third and fourth pictures shows the air-manifold installed. Picture five shows the air vent/pressure line to the clutch housing. Picture six shows my...

OK that looks terrible !!! I won't be doing that to mine ! With the roller fairlead in the "mouth" and the plate behind it, it will not look bad at all. I'm also going to mount hard rubber push pads on it. I have some I got from a rebuilt loading dock years ago. They just threw away the extras.

I only wished I had gone up to $400.00 on mine ! I ended up paying $1200.00 for a busted generator ! The picture looked great though ! and the engine runs like a champ ! To bad it makes no power auaaua .

I believe I posted some pages from my rebuild book on this topic in post 330.

I have all the manuals and have read them all. I flashed the field manually, (mine does not have a flash switch, in fact no MEP-016D has one) that's not the problem. It would produce 120 volts on one pair of windings but the other two only produced 50 volts and 60 volts. After testing the stator...

I had to revise my plate plan. Here is the new and improved version ! The fabrication shop could not supply any pipe to weld to the plate. So I needed to revise everything. There will also be a 1-1/2" lip on the top and bottom instead of 1/2" . They could not bend that small of a lip. So I will...