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Like others have said, you've been missed here ! Hope it's not your arm causing you difficulties.

I know how much of a pain that can be ! My bumper had been hit several times before I bought it. I had to spend over 4 hours with a torch and sledge hammer to get it to straighten out.

Great find on the shims Kaiserjeeps ! The only parts you can buy for the NP205 are either NOS which they want a fortune for. Used which can be a crap-shoot or parts made in China which are usually garbage. It's nice to find some parts that are new and still reasonably priced !

I have read one of his books, though I have always had that philosophy.

Most honored pupil, your audacity in speaking out does you and your ancestors credit. For yes those where my intentions, to bring enlightenment to all ! But then again maybe my original idea involved a "Closed Thermodynamic system" . For now I will let your outspokenness stand as an example to...

Yep that's what is needed. Our engines (and transmissions) at work are dyno tested to the max limits. We put a maximum load on it and take it to the highest RPM the engine is able to run at. We want it to break here not on the road. Plus you want to verify that the rebuild was done correctly.

That's good that you went with the newer style rod bolts. I would have had the rods checked though. Just from normal use the ends can stretch and the beams can twist. Then the caps must be cut back and the hole resized, and the rods straightened. I always have my rods checked on any rebuild...

It always takes more energy to change energy into another form. This is a Thermodynamics law. So if we take engine power (burning fuel) to make air-pressure then take that air-pressure to make electrical energy then I would guess we are loosing energy by a factor of 3. You engineer types can...

One of the reasons I believe the multifuel has the reputation for throwing rods is due to the rod bolts giving out. Now these bolts are on average over 35 years old and probably very tired. So taking the engine up to max RPM's is not a good idea for an old engine. Now if you have replaced all...

Thanks Cranetruck for the article and information. That will help anyone else attempting this modification.

So my calculations of 2.5 psi where about spot on then.

These are just excerpts from FM 21-305. Some of the other manuals I have are TM 5-725, FM 5-125 and my favorite FM 20-22 . I can't find all of them right now. I have a box of them somewhere. I still have my operators manual for the "M60A1 Rise Passive" somewhere to.

I'll try and dig some out then. I know I have them somewhere !

So you had a "factory" set-up correct ? Do you know what that regulator was set at ?

First off the last picture should be number 5. This is the information I was talking about earlier. There is 4 endplay tolerances in a TH400 transmission not 2 like ALL the factory manuals say. This article says it perfectly.

For the last couple of days I've been working on how I will mount the winch to the bumpers. I came up with this simple plan. I will have a 5/16" or 3/8" plate bent and cut to this diagrams dimensions. There will be a 1" bend on each end to overlap the top and bottom of the bumpers. This will...

I have often thought an older fifth wheel trailer would be a great option instead of a M109 box. The older fifth wheel trailers where not as tall as todays models but you still had the over hang that would extend over the cab creating more usable storage space or beds. They usually where very...

This is the paint I use whenever I need to weld something and I don't want it to rust.

How did you pressurize your system ? and where did you get that manual valve ? Pictures please !

The frame rails are the same width of almost all GM trucks. That should help. I once was planning on making my 1954 deuce into an IHC since I own a few of those trucks also. They also share the same frame width.