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Your right, it looks like a 1980's models. Now that is strange to have vacuum brakes on such a modern trailer. I don't know of any truck since the early 1960's that uses vacuum braking. I'm talking about medium to large trucks here not modern pick-up trucks with vacuum boosters.
There where early Military Vehicles (1950's) that used vacuum instead of air-pressure to apply the brake boosters and trailers. Some 6X4 trucks come to mind (Diamond REO) . I got this information from TM 9-8651 .
MY MEP-016D also had it's issues. The engine was basically brand new, but the generator was trashed. I spent about $300.00 trying to fix the electronics only to find the windings on the generator where toast ! I'm now in the process of trying to find a replacement generator head for mine. I'm...
I cannot find my pictures right now, but I went with all stainless steel PTFE hoses. The adapters can be bought from any "Parker" hydraulic supply store. There are some inverted flares to AN and some weird GM to AN adapters also. I used 6AN size. Works great.
Picture one shows the junction where I added stainless steel "Steel Wool" to help in the condensing of any oil in the vapors. Pictures two and three shows the backing plate I made for mounting the tank. It's 1/8" steel. The fourth picture shows the completed "Slobber" tank assembly. Picture five...
So why do manufacturers like Porsche and GM and Ford put in "neutral and park" rev limiters ? Also rods don't just come apart at Top Dead Center. Haven't you ever seen a rod through the oil pan ? Or the side of a block ? and trust me I have seen rods fly out of engines that had great oil...
The Spicer 3053 transmission is strong enough for the deuce. As long as you take care of it, it should take care of you. That means changing the oil on a regular basis, and learning to shift properly. If you smash it into gear (can't find it, grind it) type of shifting you will be replacing it...
That being said, I would presume there is some info in the older versions which are still valuable which have been omitted or dumbed down in the newer versions, but dont know enough to confirm.
In my opinion the older manuals are much better . They went into greater detail in how things worked...
Don't let it get to you. Take everything as it comes and you will do fine ! The most important thing to remember is "have fun" with your Deuce ! I take great joy from my truck, from driving it to working on it. In fact my wife calls it "the other woman" !
Everything said here is good, and if you can take all the stuff they mentioned great ! The most important thing to remember I think is if something happens don't PANIC ! Since you will have a friend in a chase car (very good idea ! ) you and him can figure out what to do as long as you keep calm...
Basically you will need to disassemble the whole system as you will need to replace all the seals. This is the proper way to do it. Don't use rubbing alcohol though, use brake clean.
I'm running Synthetic Rotella "T" 10-40W in my engine and Shell Spirax 50w synthetic gear oil in my transmission and transfer-case. The differentials get 80-90W synthetic gear oil. I had been using 80-90W in all my gears but after talking with the transmission expert at "Tremec" I had a change...
Since this is a real Dyno it will be applying a proper load to the engine. This is very important to the engines ability to stay together. If you just revved up the engine to 2800 RPM's with no load then yes it could come apart. Like Tracy (the tractor racer) told me these engines can rev pretty...
You say you have oil and coolant leaking ? That sounds like you blew out an oil cooler gasket. That oil is at around 100 psi there. So you will loose oil really fast !
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