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Good job of troubleshooting the problem !

Yes, those are the correct fittings.

I would just try and get the fiberglass ones then. No rot, rust or decay !

The first picture shows the return port (lower left). The second picture shows my first heater mod. The third picture shows the outlet port for the second heater. Since I'm using different ports to feed the heaters I should have plenty of heat. Also they are all before the thermostat. The...

I will have to replace all my bows soon as they are in pretty poor shape :( .

Right now I'm using "Rotella T" full synthetic 5-40W oil. I also use "Delo" synthetic 10-40W . It just depends who has the best price when it comes time to change the oil. Just be sure to use a "diesel" rated oil. Diesel oils must deal with more contamination then gasoline engines do.

Actually the military Unimog was partly helpful for my design. I knew they only used 3PSI max on their system so that gave me the confidence that our trucks oil seals could handle the 2.5 PSI pressure.

I'am already a "PADI" certified scuba diver, but I don't want to deal with all the maintenance after such a undertaking ! Actually I never plan to take my truck "swimming" ! This is just for the "you never know" situation . Also I had two 0-3 PSI gauges and needed something to do with them !

Another winter project I've been working on is a auxiliary heater for the passenger side. Like my main heater it is shortened and will be mounted where the air filter is now. I recently bought a M35A3 air-filter housing which I will be installing later on. I still need the blower motor. I plan...

I've been working on a Fording project for my deuce since summer ended. I already have all the differentials and transfer-case and transmission connected with a 1/4" DOT hoses up to the engine firewall. Now I'm installing the heart of the project the control unit. It has a 0 to 3 PSI gauge, low...

I have not seen it at any parts store, so I guess the best way would be online like "forest522" posted. I bought all mine online.

If you get one out of a 4X4 truck you will not need that adapter.

By just adding the spin-on oil filters you will almost eliminate the lack of oil problem due to oil drainage from the canister filters. Personally I don't add any engine oil additives except for "zinc" . The modern engine oils do a great job of lubricating the engine especially the "synthetic" oils.

I almost got one for $300.00 . It was out of a destroyed 2014 1 ton Chevy. The guy was parting it out and I got there too late !

No one is saying that a little gasoline will hurt your diesel engine, what I was commenting on is using gasoline on a regular basis as an additive. As far as getting free fuel goes all I can say is "Score" !!!

First off "Helos" don't run diesel engines. There turbines, different beast. Second most gasoline today is mixed with alcohol which absorbs water. Again not good for diesel engines. I use "Opti-Lube" additive. It is considered the very best diesel engine additive out there. The tests prove it...

The only problem is all the special tools needed. I spent over $500.00 for all my 4L80E tools. If I was going to do this I would go with the 6L90E . Though all the special tools cost me over $2000.00 so the average guy should just take it to a transmission shop to get it rebuilt.

I have these special patches that I wear plus some pills for anxiety. Though that flight from Hawaii was a bad one. Half way here it hit a really bad area. So for half an hour we where rocking and rolling ! People started throwing-up all over the place ! I was pretty medicated but I was even...

Agreed. Everything I have read on the two hole injectors was that they where to replace all one hole injectors as they performed better in fuel economy and power.

I went with Halogens and love them ! I bought a ceramic connector and put the military connectors on the leads. Now if a light goes out I just have to replace the bulb which is only about $10.00 on eBay.