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I haven't installed mine yet, also due to the weather !

I forgot to ask, but how does your transmission feel ? Does it seem to shift OK ? Have you felt it "slip" going into or out of gear ? If it is working fine then I would concentrate my efforts on the engine side ie: check radiator, water pump, hoses etc.

Oh I believe you ! I have seen documentaries on this outfit that explain how they can under-sell everyone else.

I have used "Stemco" seals for years and if I could find some that would fit the deuce I would go for it in a minute ! What most people don't know is that Stemco developed a seal that turned in itself. Meaning the seal on the metal never moves ! The seal housing is pressed in the bore and the...

The weather is not being very friendly lately ! It is just above freezing here and raining. It feels like your being hit with little ice pellets ! This kind of weather is really hard on the old injuries and I cannot really work in it anymore. So I don't know when I will be finishing up this...

If your really overheating and not just a little hotter then normal then I would check the radiator. Our trucks should have the extra wide 4 core radiator. They can really take a lot of engine heat normally. So if your experiencing overheating then something is wrong there. If you do need to...

Lets see some pictures of your install !

I got the last thing needed to finish my fording project today. It's a 24 volt "normally open" switching valve. Along with the hose manifold I got from peashooter (thanks Aaron !) I can finally finish it. The valve will be mounted to the end of the hose manifold with the end cap attached to the...

What burns my buns is I just missed getting the last one by a day ! It was sold somewhere back east. Well the saying is true "you snooze you loose" !

When there is no "charge" of fuel then what is making the rods go down ? It's from the crank which is basically "pulling" the pistons down. I learned this in "Tech" college, Engines 101 . This is also used as a diagnostics tool when trying to find loose wrist pins on pistons. The engine will...

From what I discovered about the air-filter it's 583 CFM. Good guess Shawn !

You will probably only get away with this once, so make it good !

I always try to buy in bulk whenever I can or at least whenever I can afford to. :-)

Actually the studs are suppose to "float" in the block. What I mean by that is they are not to be installed tight to the block but installed loosely, finger tight. You still have the same amount of "thread" contact.

I think it would work, as long as you went over all the bolts and retorqued them in proper sequence.

Well NAPA no longer carries the blower motor #655-1320. The factory is also out. So I found that Summit Racing carries the Four Season #35552 blower motor for $50.00 .

When I talked with the "ARP" tech he said to use their thread sealant. Of course any good sealant would work. I also prefer "Loctite" brand. Also when torqueing the nuts I would use the "ARP" brand torque lube they sell.

Wished I had known that before spending $100.00 on the housing and now needing to spend almost $100.00 for the filter. :-(

What gimpyrobb said. Don't go over 2200 RPM's. Remember that your engine is being stressed differently when used to brake versus being powered by itself (compression firing in the cylinders) . Think connecting rods being "pulled" instead of "compressed" .

Most all transmission heat comes from the torque converter. When the "stator" is freewheeling (fluid is basically a solid mass) there is not much heat generated. This occurs when the transmission is in final drive usually. The time it is making the most heat is when it is making the most torque...