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Don't for get to add the cost of installing the AC system and sound / heat proofing. With out AC your looking at maybe 10 miles per gallon and five pounds per hour weight loss.
Yep rear axle just remove the center cap and remove one of the bolts that hold on the gear hub. Use the bolt from hub to pull axle and replace the bolt and hub nut. Front axle no way easer here we just remove the u joint from front axle and tie the drive shaft up. Helps to have Tiger u joint...
Glad you did not want the whole thing. I don't remember taking this apart but some of the nuts were loose. Then no spring inside! I think I have one or two more air packs for parts and will look sea Monday. Sorry.
I have a whole take out and don't know what shape it's in. Shipping the whole thing would bet is high. I can open it up if you just want the spring or any other small parts just pay shipping.
Since your here and getting ready to change your belt. Myself After I get the outer pulley half off if the threads look rusty wire brush. Then light coat of never-seize on the threads. Then wipe off excess. Then run the outer half all the way on without the belt and then remove it. Wipe off...
The Detroit I had are always locked up and only unlock / ratchet when one axle spins faster than the other. The axles are locked together when sitting still or under power or coasting. I have had no problem on the street when in a tight turn or making a 90* turn from a stop. Sometimes I would...
Myself one = front. Two front = front and rear rear. Three no explanining there bad azz truck. Yea my USMC dumps had both Detroit rears and did great at the mud bog better that no locker 5 tons. My bobbed 809 series 5 ton with Detroit in just rear would do pretty darn good. Sold the two 5 ton...
Just for smitts and giggles I pulled some boots out. Here we have the one piece, zipper style with black zipper and buttons and the gold zipper boot. Now my one piece has the number 8376530 stamped into it. The gold zipper has the number 8376530 stamped into it. The black with buttons has no...
Said I was done but fuel pump/fuel need to see some pressure build up? Just for smitts and giggles and I know they are not the same but. I went out to the 60 series and used the primer ball on the secondary and got a couple of pumps before she was hard. While cranking her over my in dash fuel...
What's different with the Mack? I only chose the 40 when I talked to Chevron's fluid engineer and told him what I had and I needed yellow metal safe and something close to Mil. specs.
Ouch just was reading G's post above after posting. Guess I have some rethinking to do but good thing I have...
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