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I never like using RTV. I use the blue shop towels crammed into the keyway and never had a problem. I also fill my hubs with grease. I don't think the race is going to make a difference as nothing is going to seep by the inside and the grease seal should make up the difference. Not keeping the...

My post reads funny. If all the service brakes are hanging up then check glad hand. If just the parking brakes then the roller/ parking brake circuit and no air leaks.

Are you setting the parking brakes when hooking up and then they are not coming off? Do believe the glad hand thing is the last catch if something is going wrong in the system so check that. Then I would check the roller valve on the parking brake. When that is down it should be venting out the...

I took one apart and I could still see some nice cross hatch lines. Fix something else that is not broke.

Yea the Chevron Delo Trans. ESI is a 40wt and I have had no problems with it. As for the grease I use any good stuff as todays tube grease has more than enough protection and most good stiff is good to go in U joints that need EP.

Very good and if the 5 ton was ever on the road and God forbid you have something go wrong and you spill fuel into a creek and the EPA says you owe 50 k for clean up the insurance can say the tank was moved by someone and they don't have to pay for clean up.

That's a hacked up mud truck and where is the fuel tank. I rather built a street / mud truck than something that spends it's life on a trailer. It's all what you like I guess but if a truck is too short and you ask me I will tell you I think it looks to short. The truck I just did was long and...

I will never do such a long wheel base again but yours looks a little to short and after you put on the 53's think it might be a bit tight.

I thought it was around 60/62 inches. This truck has a wheel base of 164 and drive line from mounting flange to flange is 59". I don't like a short bob and Pete gave me the drive shaft so I placed the rear to match it. Just for smits and giggles I fill up the fuel tank put the battery box's on...

I don't trust checking the up and down on the plunger as Razor has stated he found the plunger can still go up and with the button off. Then don't forget the quill shaft can let go and the Head will not turn. Think your going to have to pull that head and check button, quill shaft and plunger guide.

Got the holes drilled with the Mag and annular bits so I could mount the bed and mud flaps. She is a 5 ton RTC so I think this still counts. Got the multifuel motor ready to take to Gimpyrob when I go to Ohio to pick up my seats.

It just presses into the frame work. Think it was put the bottom in first then press down on the wire frame work to install.

One tip is to down shift the transfer case while the wheels are still turning just a tad when stopping. So when coming to a stop just before the truck stops make the low range shift and it will drop in so much easer.

I myself would fill the bed with girls and beer and watch someone else tear up there stuff.

That should have been done before, during and after.

Yea I guess I will say mine was close to 6 with 4 bolts cut out and all new put back in. Now some of use are better than others so for the insurance go with 8 hours.

Might want to try the CDC in Atlanta.

I also would look for the correct perches top and bottom. No home made stuff.

As long as you have the inverted flair plug in the return T at the front of the Head you can run without the FDC plugs for now.