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I've seen folks on YouTube use Flex Seal on ALICE pack map pockets, M1967 buttpacks, and M1945 backpacks to restore the waterproof function of the flexible liner that loses its coating over time. They say it works well for that application which requires much more flexibility than a cargo...

I think I'll get one of these before winter. I'm hoping there's a unit that can handle 2 batteries. Is there a brand/model out there that you like?

Can the BC2 long block be used with the 250's oil cooler & other external accessories swapped over to minimize the amount of modifications needed?

My '81 M813 had the full vin starting with the letter C

They said it was a 2015 dated battery and they weren't surprised that it wouldn't charge above 10.71 volts. One of the cells went bad they said.

Well thanks man, glad you like it! I really hope the paint holds out and it's a bit of an experiment to see how it does with the heat, grease/oil, and the UV exposure on the stack. I'll keep the group updated as it ages so we know if it's worth the cost or not $$$. I'm thinking I'll have to...

I begrudgingly replaced an 8D battery, had a new 4/0 cable made up and also added some cable labels that the electrician made for my wires.

Mine is pretty close to the steering box

I like how it has different size tires with a super single front (like a vocational truck) and still have the same tread pattern.

I just replaced my air horn copper line with a new line from Napa that I formed up and the original M813 copper tube was almost twice the wall thickness as the new line. I imagine you can order different wall thicknesses but it looks like the original is much beefier than a typical replacement.

Thank you - much appreciated! It sounds awesome so far and hopefully it pulls awesome as well. I have to pick up a new 8D before I can take it on the road so I should be cruising pretty soon 😎

And...that's a wrap! This turbo install is finished! Phew!...that only took 4 months...plus the 4 months of researching and buying parts before that. By far my most intense project to date but I think it turned out pretty nice. After some test drives I will be swapping out the fuel button...

To cut the hole in the passenger side panel for the air intake i first trimmed back the stiffener rib and I had a 6 3/8" i.d. stencil made from 10 ga. that will produce a 6" hole with the plasma cutter. The fit was so close to the panel latches and hinge that the stencil had to trimmed but the...

Thank you! I didn't quite get around to driving it this weekend like i had planned but I should be done with the entire install tomorrow. I want to do some shake down runs before I do any filming so it may be a week or two yet.

The fourth sticky down on this 5 ton page is the procedure I've used: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/nhc250-valve-injector-overhead-adjusting.73256/

Yes, I'm very fortunate to have a full manufacturing shop at my disposal and fortunate to be working with dozens of skilled fabricators & machinists. I sure don't take it for granted because for maybe 15 years I had to make due with improvisations like using a hammer & punch instead of a press...

Yes, my coworker who's doing the welds on this project is both really good and super willing which is a hard combination to find these days.

I rechecked the TM which I was picturing from memory and it looks like I'm dishing out some fake news. I was thinking the sheet metal layer in the diagram was "dash" but indeed it says "cab floor". I'll edit my earlier post.

I made some more progress on the intake piping between the air cleaner and the turbo and I got the stack & heat shield installed. Looks like I didn't need to buy an extension splice as the 4" length I cut off the stock intake pipe is the right size to space the 90° elbow off the air cleaner for...

A truck with dual tanks has a fuel selector valve under the cab which is known to spring multiple air leaks. I believe there is a "sticky" thread on rebuilding that valve. *edited: incorrectly stated the valve was behind the dash.