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Having used it on my stock M37 lock ring rims, I can tell you that they work very well. This was my first time changing this style of rim, and I had no problems with the 5 of them. (it did help that I had someone experienced in changing them giving me pointers).

There are bead breaker tools which run off anair wrench or a hand wrench/ratchet. I used one owned by a friend when changing the tires on 5 rims (some of which had probably not been changed in a decade or two). It worked very well, and takes a lot of the grunt work out of dismounting tires. You...

FYI - I now have about 7500 miles on that Debella ignition coil. Still running with no problems.

That's good. The high end of that pressure range could overcome the carb.

Was the new pump rated in the 4-5 PSI range, or did you have to keep the pressure regulator you mentioned earlier in the system?

I've used this Facet 24V el;ectric pump, mounted back near the fual tank with good results. No need for a pressure regulator, since the pump is rated at an appropriate PSI for the stock carb. https://www.amazon.com/Facet-476088-Cylindrical-Style-Volt/dp/B00IO4EIA2/

Seems as though you'd be able to snag an electrical engineering student from one of the colleges or universities in your area and get some advice?

Any updates on how this project is going? Did you ever get that controller issue figured out?

I have 11.00 R16 Michelin XZL tires on my M37. My suspension is completely stock and I get no rubbing anywhere through the range of motion of the steering system or when operating in my woods. I've seen pictures of where someone had mounted Michelin 325/85 R16 tires (similar OD but bit wider...

That one is in the Technical manuals section under the M37 heading. LINK: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-m37.83365/

Hopefully what ever is going on did not fry your replacement ignition coil

That's a common failure mode for the stock fuel pump. It might not have crossed my mind for the symptoms you described, but if the previous owner is mentioning fuel in the oil, the pump diaphragm could be having problems.

Have fun! Wish I had your skils.

If you are not gong to rebuild the engine yourself, Ken Holmes is one of the best rebuilders for these 230 engines. He is just down the road from you in Worcester, MA. I can dig up contactinfo, if you are interested.

Was that for a spotlight?

I'm surprised the motor you have is not working better for you. The stock engine is admittedly underpowered at 80 HP, but unless I'm looking at the wrong model, isn't the electric motor you selected more than double that? (Plus, in a lot of applications you can get by with a smaller electric...

The earlier M37 trucks had an ammeter (not a voltmeter) which was fed from wires 8 & 9 from the regulator. Later trucks (M37B1) had a voltmeter, which was fed from wire 27 coming from the ignition switch - this fed the spider which then fed each of the instruments (except for the speedometer)...

I've always wondered how those sealers know not to seal up things you want open, like the passages in the radiator or heater, or other small passages.

Thanks, @OutpostM37. THe link took me to a list of multiple tank designs. From the picture, I'm guessing you showed the SPECTRA PREMIUM F15B tank (price $113.79, capacity 22 gal). Is that correct? Have you used one of these yourself? If so, did it take much to make it fit?

I have no idea, other than that it is a full sized Ford van. I read somewhere about it long ago, but lost the link to the description. I suggested to @M37Dale that he see if he could find one. When he posted that he did, I made a couple of posts in this thread and sent him a private message...