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Hey John, We looked into doing this, even have a prototype on the shelf, but encountered an issue. It's pretty standard design to put a turn on time delay in buck converter circuits, to give the system enough time for input power to become stable. It's a pretty short delay half second or so...

Inline6359, You need a 4" lift block to make the truck sit level with M105 springs. http://www.xm381.com/Build_Images/1971_AM_General_files/DSC_0389.

Inline6359, Looking good! Which springs are you using?

Ducekrazy, Look at your high/low switch on the floorboard, access is from the bottom side.

I know this is an old post, but since I've got a new broken wheel stud.... And the part numbers have changed to: LH Stud: WA-1211 RH Stud: WA-1210 LH Nut: WA-2007 RH Nut: WA-2006

You're doing great work!

The converter doesn't hook into the "12 Pin NATO Socket" on the back of your truck. Although most all military trailers will plug into the 12 Pin NATO Socket, no civilian trailer will. You need to purchase a civilian socket that matches the trailer you're wanting to pull and connect the...

I've built a few 24v to 12v trailer lighting converters in my day, and here's what I've learned.... If you're pulling a trailer with your military truck and that trailer never gets pulled by a 12 volt vehicle, swapping out the bulbs is the cheapest route. The nomenclature for...

Thanks for all that attended!

Let's meet at the Edmond Walmart on I-35 and 15th and be ready to pull out at 8:30 with an intended arrival time of 9:00. Anyone who want's to meet us at Resthaven, their address is: 500 Southwest 104th (between Western and Walker, 104th is Moore's NW27th). Due to tornado damage, I've been...

I spoke with resthaven today and all is still a go for Memorial Day. In order to figure out a good rendezvous point, give me a heads up as to where you're coming from. We'll be a mile or so north of the tornado damage area in Moore. Maybe we could transport some relief supplies in...

Thanks! Tractor Supply tractor / implement paint with hardener. It is not flat, it has a little gloss to it, but has held up well.

Looks like a good start. We did an Arctic Camo A3 awhile back, here's some pics: http://www.xm381.com/xm381/M35A3.html#0

No 99.999% uptime gold star for you! Oh wait, these are PCs not mainframes.... no 90% uptime gold star for you! Backups, two copies in two different geographical locations! My bank customers frown upon downtime and terminate your contract over lost data!

I agree SteelandCanvas, we have Bjorn, a.k.a. "CraneTruck" to thank for that schematic.

How are you powering your brake controller? I ask because I'm looking into various options for powering electric brakes.

And, by the way, everyone should have a schematic: http://www.xm381.com/xm381/TMs_files/WIRING%20SCHEMATIC.pdf

The blackout stoplight is wire #23, both at the 3-lever switch and rear composite lights and pin "F" on the 12 pin NATO trailer socket. I assume you're using #20 / #21, blackout marker, for your fog lights.

Yes, #75 works too. #22 is the feed to the turn signal switch, the other side of #75. There are two #75 wires, as steelandcanvas said, get the one on pin "K".

Let me add that your brake controller needs a 12 volt brake signal, whereas your truck is 24 volt... you'll let the smoke out of the controllers wires if you hook it up directly, and we all know wire smoke is bad.