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[74M35A2]

X rated trans action:

 

[74M35A2]

 

[74M35A2]

AN adapter fittings installed on hydraulic slave cylinder to run stainless braided air and fluid lines to it.

 

[74M35A2]

Still learning. Looks like there are adapter type U joints available to transition from one yoke type to another. I am investigating to use one of these, even if more expensive, rather than change either yoke, as it may still be cheaper. I will still have to lengthen the driveshaft from trans to transfer case, as the manual trans is 1" shorter, and the engine flywheel housing is 1" less depth, so should be about 2" total. First pic below is adapter type U joint I would need, second pic is stock output yoke on the Road Ranger trans, third pic is my stock driveshaft, trans side at bottom of pic, transfer case at top. I can also get different output yokes for the trans, so just a matter weighing which direction to go, no show stoppers:



Eaton / Fuller trans output yoke p/n guide chart: http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@roadranger/documents/content/ct_042146.pdf

Had an interesting note, a new member joined the site just to see the trans clutch housing pics, as they are wanting to do the same to some tractor. Was asking weight and where I got it for $200 brand new.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Still learning. Looks like there are adapter type U joints available to transition from one yoke type to another. I am investigating to use one of these, even if more expensive, rather than change either yoke, as it may still be cheaper. I will still have to lengthen the driveshaft from trans to transfer case, as the manual trans is 1" shorter, and the engine flywheel housing is 1" less depth, so should be about 2" total. First pic below is adapter type U joint I would need, second pic is my stock driveshaft, trans side at bottom of pic, transfer case at top:

View attachment 703274

It's called a bastard joint. Now you won't sound like a newbie, lol.

 

[74M35A2]

It's called a bastard joint. Now you won't sound like a newbie, lol.

Everybody here is smarter than me. That is probably about what I'll be calling it when it is Sunday night, I am trying to bolt it together to get my truck out of the bay at my work by Monday am, and it won't line up.....

 

[Swamp Donkey]

Nah, it's all in the perspective. For instance, I know nothing about the different bellhousings. Everybody is smarter than me from that perspective.

 

[simp5782]

Just change the thing over to spicer with a companion flange. Parts are cheaper and easier to find at any parts store. You have to have a new shaft made anyway. Its just more common

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[74M35A2]

It's a possibility, but that is changing all 4 ends and both U joints, may play out as much more expensive path than just a single adapter type U joint. Hold tight, will do cost comparison at local driveshaft shop once back from Japan this week.

 

[grendel]

It's a possibility, but that is changing all 4 ends and both U joints, may play out as much more expensive path than just a single adapter type U joint. Hold tight, will do cost comparison at local driveshaft shop once back from Japan this week.

No, just change that end of the drive shaft and the trans yoke. I am with Simp. The rest of the 5t joints are avaialble and easy... the 5T trans side joint is a Meritor part, frequently found at Freightliner. The Bastard joint? Not so much.

Edit:

Did you try the yoke from the Allison onto the RR? You may be surprised.

 

[simp5782]

No, just change that end of the drive shaft and the trans yoke. I am with Simp. The rest of the 5t joints are avaialble and easy... the 5T trans side joint is a Meritor part, frequently found at Freightliner. The Bastard joint? Not so much.

Edit:

Did you try the yoke from the Allison onto the RR? You may be surprised.

I told him to leave his transmission yoke on. and get the flat companion flange for the transfer case end. It is the same as the front driveshaft output and the other driveshafts. Clint, I can send you a driveshaft side companion flange. Then you just slap the joint in and go.

 

[simp5782]

Clint I used the same style on my output as your transmission is. I swapped the "mechanics style" yoke on the transfer case with the flat companion flange like in the pic I got from Swamp. I can drop off a driveshaft with the yokes and flanges at Gimpys that would work. I know its the bigger joint (which is your transfer case to front tandem. or on the A1 trucks the front axle to the center shaft bearing shaft has the larger joints.

 

[74M35A2]

This is why I play here, look at all these friendly people!

Let me check what the driveshaft shop says. I don't exactly have to have U-joints in stock at every Love's truck stop. There is benefit for that for Simp who drives 6,000 miles a week. I did 10,000 miles in 4-5 years, so even a new hybrid joint would last me decades.

 

[simp5782]

This is why I play here, look at all these friendly people!

Let me check what the driveshaft shop says. I don't exactly have to have U-joints in stock at every Love's truck stop. There is benefit for that for Simp who drives 6,000 miles a week. I did 10,000 miles in 4-5 years, so even a new hybrid joint would last me decades.

How do you know? Nothing in this country is quality anymore. Just quality crap it seems. Your bastard joint may not like the vibration.

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[74M35A2]

ISL and 13 speed road runner will run smooth as a Cadillac, zero vibration. You'll be able to balance a glass of wine on the valve cover @ 70mph. Cruise up, we'll take it to Yacht Club for lunch.

 

[74M35A2]

You know, I do still have the front prop shaft I removed for a worn spline slip joint. That has the flat companion flange and good U joints still on each end that you are talking about....hmmmm.....look at that, I may just end up doing as you said anyway. See if I can pry a used T-case output flange out of SD's hands for some $.

Simp, it looks like you centered your engine when you made the rear mounts, so that is why you have your shaft at such an angle from trans to transfer? From the factory, at least the 8.3L, they stuff the engine all the way to the right hand side between the frame rails.

 

[simp5782]

You know how much vibration the driveline has from the axles at 70mph. You have vibrations regardless If You can feel it or not.

Companion flange has to have the larger joint though. The same as the transmission

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[74M35A2]

It should not have a lot, yours may from the shaft angle you are using?

 

[simp5782]

It should not have a lot, yours may from the shaft angle you are using?

No. Mine is felt in the seat. So its axles.Its typical road vibration especially with the crap transfer case mounts

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[74M35A2]

I called the truck driveshaft shaft shop which is local to me, from Japan, as I couldn't wait any longer. They said less then or about $200 to lengthen it 2", $80 for a tube piece and $120 for labor (2 cut, 2 welds, balancing). Will do some measurements when I get home to see if any of my front prop shaft can be used (tube diameter, flange ends, etc....). They may not accept used tube, or may not warranty it if used. Pricing did not include any yoke ends or U joints if needed. Still going to ask them about making the transition via adapter type U joint vs changing one/both of the ends.

A new "companion flange" output yoke for the trans is $300 by itself: https://www.finditparts.com/products/306076/fuller-86728-1 so will see if I can simply use the full round U joint yoke that is on there already. Used yoke ends appear to be around $100, if can find one.