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AcuTemp Refrigerator

Jayhawk#44

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Does anyone have the proper wiring order for the batteries? I've got 2 yellow and 2 black sleeved wires in the battery tray.

No real way to tell what is + or - and which pair goes together.

Thanks in advance!

Matt
 

Jayhawk#44

Active member
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125
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Arizona
Update:

Stopped being lazy, started chasing wires. Different pin out on the AC plug. Based on the AC inputs(L, N, and GND) from the plug to the power supply . Plugged it in got nothing, but then noticed a very slight ticking noise. DC output should be somewhere in the range of 12 - 15 volts, but all I get is 0.15 to 0.25 volts ish, with the bounce coinciding with the ticking noise.

Yes you guessed it The blood supply for our soldiers relies on it $57 cheap Chinese POS power supply manufactured April of 2019..
16529383618122124052547507790171.jpg
Thinking I have a fried power supply. All power goes to the solar controller then to the unit. I'm going to jumper in 12 volts to the solar and see if it runs.

If that's it, I can solve the AC problem cheaply.

Later,

Matt
 

Jayhawk#44

Active member
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Location
Arizona
Busy weekend with youngest son's club basketball, so not much to report.

I did verify my power supply is not the problem. Disconnected the DC output to the solar controller, presto magico and it's now putting out 16.34V DC.

Put 12v to the now disconnected DC feed to the solar controller, immediately popped the fuse in the cable I used to run the 12v.

So I've got a short down stream of the power supply.

Pulled the entire unit out of the box for access reasons. I'll post up a few pics later.

Take care,

Matt
 
Last edited:

Guruman

Not so new member
This thread inspired me to want one of these (two actually, to use as seats in a dinette unit).

I won a couple of auctions and after some interesting shipping debacles I now have three of them.

One had dead batteries
Two are missing the batteries and the cage for them.

I bought 4 new batteries. Dropped a couple on the first unit. Unit runs cools works fine on A/C power. Does not charge the batteries. Will not run on DC power.

Moved the batteries to unit 2. Same thing. No charge, will not run on DC power. Works great on A/C.

Unit 3. Same dang thing.

None of them will charge the batteries or run on DC power.

Ideas?
 

rtk

Well-known member
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Lockport N.Y.
I recently bought an "AcuTemp AX56L" HemaCool mobile blood storage and cooling refrigerator from fellow steel soldiers member "firefinder" .
It is awesome ! It weighs in at 148 Ibs so it's no light weight, this is a serious piece of equipment. It can operate on 120V A/C, 24V DC, 12V DC and internal batteries (for up to 8 hours in freeze mode) . It holds more then my RV's deep freeze and keeps it frozen to -9 F below zero ! (-23C) . It can also keep it at 35F degrees (cool mode) if you so desire.
After I received mine I started to test it. It takes about 12 hours to reach it's maximum freeze temperature, but after that you can open the lid and retrieve anything stored in there without hardly any temperature rise.
It uses an actual freezer compressor (that's one of the reasons it weighs so much) and the motorcycle size internal batteries are totally sealed (the other reason for the weight) . It came with the A/C cord, the 24V DC cord and operator and service manuals, a screwdriver (to remove the cover) a sponge, spare air filter and the operating system to load on your laptop to check the units function. All in all this is one primo unit ! I just wish I had more money to buy another !
This is going on my "Great Alaskan Adventure" for sure !


View attachment 716510View attachment 716511View attachment 716512View attachment 716513View attachment 716514View attachment 716515
I picked up the same unit !!! yes it is heavy !!!!!
 

wheelspinner

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North Carolina - FINALLY !
This thread inspired me to want one of these (two actually, to use as seats in a dinette unit).

I won a couple of auctions and after some interesting shipping debacles I now have three of them.

One had dead batteries
Two are missing the batteries and the cage for them.

I bought 4 new batteries. Dropped a couple on the first unit. Unit runs cools works fine on A/C power. Does not charge the batteries. Will not run on DC power.

Moved the batteries to unit 2. Same thing. No charge, will not run on DC power. Works great on A/C.

Unit 3. Same dang thing.

None of them will charge the batteries or run on DC power.

Ideas?
Mine came with no batteries. Put some in-did just like you said , then about a week later started charging the batteries. Charged and ran on dc just fine. Then I screwed up and let them discharge. Same thing again. Took about 3 days for the batteries to start charging. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Va
i gathered the pertinent information
************************
CSafe Global
AcuTemp AX56L mobile refrigerator/freezer

Model HMC-MIL-1A (or Hemacool) Solid State Refrigerator-freezer NSN 4110-01-629-9593
(or AcuTemp AX56L)
Older Model HMC-MIL-1 NSN 4110-01-506-0895
or upgraded to HMC-MIL-1A

2 x fuses 250vac/3amp AGC
Fuse holder assembly Bussmann 1/4 x 1 1/4 inch Bussmann HTB. (Bluesea 5021) Cap is BK/FTI (or BlueSea 5022) Cheaper to just buy the whole BlueSea 5021 assembly.

Factory 2 x Power-Sonic PSH-12180FR 12v 21AH Length 7.14in, 181mm / Width 3.03in, 77mm / Height 6.59in, 167mm / NB2 terminals
specs
Has a onboard Charge controller. Hook solar panels directly if wanted.

Data board battery
Data board AA battery hold down clip "Keystone Electronics 1028C"
Specifications
Type: Lithium
Voltage: 3.6 Volts
Capacity: 2600 mAh
Size: 0.56" dia. x 1.97" tall
Contacts: Button Type AA size

Tadiran TL-5104/S
Tadiran TL-5104/S 3.6V AA 2.1 Ah Lithium Battery (ER14505)
SAFT LS14500
SAFT LS14500 Size AA 3.6V 2600mAh Battery Lithium Thionyl Chloride
Xeno XL-060F AA 2400mAh 3.6V Lithium Thionyl Chloride (LiSOCI2) Battery

If the refrigerant was drained.
According to their specialist, the system contains 10.5 oz of 134-A refrigerant.

********************
4110-01-629-9593
4110-01-506-0895
4110-01-606-3035

Self-contained system designed to allow safe transport of materials that must be maintained within a strict temperature range such as vaccines, medications, reagents and liquid/frozen blood products; portable; self-powered; accepts electrical power from multiple sources: 100 to 250 vac, 50-60 hz at ac input, 12-28 vdc from batteries or other dc sources at the dc power input; internal fans help circulate cooling air and maintain uniform temperature; cool and freeze mode; cool mode set point: 4 degrees c (39.2 degrees f); freeze mode set point: -22 degrees c (-7.6 degrees f); compartment volume: 56 liter (2 cubic feet); payload capacity: 40 450-ml or 60 250-ml blood units; cooling capacity: 60 watts (205 btu/hr); heating capacity: 40 watts (136 btu/hr); gross weight (mgw) (case + payload) 180 lb (81.7 kg); tare weight (case) 142 lb (64.5 kg); multifunction lcd display; rs-232 serial port
 
Last edited:

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
880
1,339
93
Location
York Pa
i gathered the pertinent information
************************
CSafe Global
AcuTemp AX56L mobile refrigerator/freezer

Model HMC-MIL-1A (or Hemacool) Solid State Refrigerator-freezer NSN 4110-01-629-9593
(or AcuTemp AX56L)
Older Model HMC-MIL-1 NSN 4110-01-506-0895
or upgraded to HMC-MIL-1A

2 x fuses 250vac/3amp AGC
Fuse holder assembly Bussmann 1/4 x 1 1/4 inch Bussmann HTB. (Bluesea 5021) Cap is BK/FTI (or BlueSea 5022) Cheaper to just buy the whole BlueSea 5021 assembly.

Factory 2 x Power-Sonic PSH-12180FR 12v 21AH Length 7.14in, 181mm / Width 3.03in, 77mm / Height 6.59in, 167mm / NB2 terminals
specs
Has a onboard Charge controller. Hook solar panels directly if wanted.

Data board battery
Data board AA battery hold down clip "Keystone Electronics 1028C"
Specifications
Type: Lithium
Voltage: 3.6 Volts
Capacity: 2600 mAh
Size: 0.56" dia. x 1.97" tall
Contacts: Button Type AA size

Tadiran TL-5104/S
Tadiran TL-5104/S 3.6V AA 2.1 Ah Lithium Battery (ER14505)
SAFT LS14500
SAFT LS14500 Size AA 3.6V 2600mAh Battery Lithium Thionyl Chloride
Xeno XL-060F AA 2400mAh 3.6V Lithium Thionyl Chloride (LiSOCI2) Battery

If the refrigerant was drained.
According to their specialist, the system contains 10.5 oz of 134-A refrigerant.

********************
4110-01-629-9593
4110-01-506-0895
4110-01-606-3035

Self-contained system designed to allow safe transport of materials that must be maintained within a strict temperature range such as vaccines, medications, reagents and liquid/frozen blood products; portable; self-powered; accepts electrical power from multiple sources: 100 to 250 vac, 50-60 hz at ac input, 12-28 vdc from batteries or other dc sources at the dc power input; internal fans help circulate cooling air and maintain uniform temperature; cool and freeze mode; cool mode set point: 4 degrees c (39.2 degrees f); freeze mode set point: -22 degrees c (-7.6 degrees f); compartment volume: 56 liter (2 cubic feet); payload capacity: 40 450-ml or 60 250-ml blood units; cooling capacity: 60 watts (205 btu/hr); heating capacity: 40 watts (136 btu/hr); gross weight (mgw) (case + payload) 180 lb (81.7 kg); tare weight (case) 142 lb (64.5 kg); multifunction lcd display; rs-232 serial port
Having that lid on shocks is really nice for sure! I use mine all summer. The batteries do die after about a month if it's not being used. I leave it plugged in a bunch. My next thing I need to figure out is some kind of netting inside or something keeping stuff from bouncing all over the place when I take it in the trailer with me. I have had several sodas explode in there from that.
 

Third From Texas

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Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Having that lid on shocks is really nice for sure! I use mine all summer. The batteries do die after about a month if it's not being used. I leave it plugged in a bunch. My next thing I need to figure out is some kind of netting inside or something keeping stuff from bouncing all over the place when I take it in the trailer with me. I have had several sodas explode in there from that.
Yeah, there's a drain on the batteries somewhere. Mine went dead and even killed one battery .

I added a way to charge them independently (with an external charger so as not to have to fun the fan 24/7). And next I want to add a disconnect so I can isolate them from the vampiric drain.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Va
So, I take it as, there really is no OFF.
It just sits at IDLE. umm, I might not be using it for a while, since its winter. So the best way is to disconnect all batteries if I won't use it for another 4 months.
I have it running at Freeze now. A nice -24.7 c and holding. 24 hours now.
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
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Location
Corpus Christi Texas
So, I take it as, there really is no OFF.
It just sits at IDLE. umm, I might not be using it for a while, since its winter. So the best way is to disconnect all batteries if I won't use it for another 4 months.
I have it running at Freeze now. A nice -24.7 c and holding. 24 hours now.
Yeah, sorta.

There's a drain somewhere when it's powered off. I found out over time and eventually cost me a good battery. I never really pursued it but I should.

I'll have to ponder on the best way to do a disconnect. I know that I don't want to pull the white inner bezel/trays every time so I'll likely place a switch in the tray area above the batts.
 

Third From Texas

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Location
Corpus Christi Texas
OK, so the stock batteries are AGM 12v 20ah.

Mine have always gone flat in a short period if the unit is not plugged in (so I know there is a draw). I've gone thru two sets of batteries to date and I'm not going to keep feeding this thing $150 worth of AGM batteries a couple times a year. Once they go flat, they of course never hold a full charge again and degrade with each hard drain. And leaving the cooler running 24/7/365 is not an option for me.

What I'd like to do is replace the AGMs with Lithiums (actually I can get 12v 20ah LifePO4 lithium battery for the same price I pay locally for the AGM).

Lithiums can be taken flat w/o harm to the batteries. I even have already added charging ports for each battery so I can charge them when the unit is unplugged. But if left unplugged (ie no charger) even a few days, the batteries are sucked flat.

My concern is the internal charger. What will it do when plugged int 110v and it starts to do it's thing with Lithiums onboard opposed to AGMs? I know that most chargers these days have a setting (or auto adjust) for the various type of cells.
*I only ever plug the unit into 110v to "pre-cool" it and load my food, beer...then I roll it out to the crane and lift it onto the trailer

If this article is correct, I should be able to do this (ie: you can charge Lithiums with a SLA charger):
*again, I only plug it in to "pre-cool" it (I have an external charger)

I wonder if there is a way to disable the internal charger
*and use my external ports for my Lithuim--capable charger.
*basically what I was already doing opposed to leaving the unit running 24/7/365

Or is that even necessary (ie: the internal AGM charger will work fine with Lithiums)?

Maybe I need to introduce a disconnect switch for each battery for when the unit is plugged into 110v

But I'd sure like to upgrade to Lithium if possible.



tldr:

  1. I want to use Lithium batteries opposed to replacing AGMs every season
  2. I already have external charging ports installed for each battery
  3. I don't want to keep the unit plugged in and running 24/7/365 (but I can leave a pulse charger attached as needed)
Thoughts?
 
Last edited:

hrbergeron

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Geographical Center of Virginia
tldr:

  1. I want to use Lithium batteries opposed to replacing AGMs every season
  2. I already have external charging ports installed for each battery
  3. I don't want to keep the unit plugged in and running 24/7/365 (but I can leave a pulse charger attached as needed)
Thoughts?
I have lithium batteries in mine without issue. It is a pain having to take off the lid and disconnect the battery connector every time I'm done using it.
 

WWRD99

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Location
York Pa
OK, so the stock batteries are AGM 12v 20ah.

Mine have always gone flat in a short period if the unit is not plugged in (so I know there is a draw). I've gone thru two sets of batteries to date and I'm not going to keep feeding this thing $150 worth of AGM batteries a couple times a year. Once they go flat, they of course never hold a full charge again and degrade with each hard drain. And leaving the cooler running 24/7/365 is not an option for me.

What I'd like to do is replace the AGMs with Lithiums (actually I can get 12v 20ah LifePO4 lithium battery for the same price I pay locally for the AGM).

Lithiums can be taken flat w/o harm to the batteries. I even have already added charging ports for each battery so I can charge them when the unit is unplugged. But if left unplugged (ie no charger) even a few days, the batteries are sucked flat.

My concern is the internal charger. What will it do when plugged int 110v and it starts to do it's thing with Lithiums onboard opposed to AGMs? I know that most chargers these days have a setting (or auto adjust) for the various type of cells.
*I only ever plug the unit into 110v to "pre-cool" it and load my food, beer...then I roll it out to the crane and lift it onto the trailer

If this article is correct, I should be able to do this (ie: you can charge Lithiums with a SLA charger):
*again, I only plug it in to "pre-cool" it (I have an external charger)

I wonder if there is a way to disable the internal charger
*and use my external ports for my Lithuim--capable charger.
*basically what I was already doing opposed to leaving the unit running 24/7/365

Or is that even necessary (ie: the internal AGM charger will work fine with Lithiums)?

Maybe I need to introduce a disconnect switch for each battery for when the unit is plugged into 110v

But I'd sure like to upgrade to Lithium if possible.



tldr:

  1. I want to use Lithium batteries opposed to replacing AGMs every season
  2. I already have external charging ports installed for each battery
  3. I don't want to keep the unit plugged in and running 24/7/365 (but I can leave a pulse charger attached as needed)
Thoughts?
I'm not sure how long mine go without being plugged in but I do have to take them out to charge them back up again. I haven't tested them this summer yet though how long they go before their dead again. I would like to do a switch that unhooks them from the unit when I'm not using it though. Mine won't charge dead batteries as it thinks nothing is in there. Be curious what lithium batteries will work as you did list some!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
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Location
Corpus Christi Texas
I'm not sure how long mine go without being plugged in but I do have to take them out to charge them back up again. I haven't tested them this summer yet though how long they go before their dead again. I would like to do a switch that unhooks them from the unit when I'm not using it though. Mine won't charge dead batteries as it thinks nothing is in there. Be curious what lithium batteries will work as you did list some!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Disassembling the unit to access the batteries got old the first time I did it. ;)

I added a couple SAE ports so I can charge each battery w/o having to plug the unit in and run it.


IMG_20230907_124914185.jpg
 

WWRD99

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Location
York Pa
Disassembling the unit to access the batteries got old the first time I did it. ;)

I added a couple SAE ports so I can charge each battery w/o having to plug the unit in and run it.


View attachment 905394
Interesting!! So I assume each port goes to one battery with a 12 volt charger? Could a 24 volt charger be used so only one plug is needed or wired I wonder. I see how that will work as it wouldn't be any different for the acutemp with the batteries hooked up and charged and being charged at the same time if that makes sense. No damage would occur to it and the fan wouldn't run all the time. I guess a basic trickle charger for a motorcycle is all that is needed, they use that style plug too. Great upgrade!! Not expensive either. I'd bet it could be used in the other direction as well if you can pull 12 volts from one battery for a phone charger if need be but I'd only use it that way if it were getting external power.
 
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