• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

CUCV Help in/near Central Louisiana

a175

New member
175
0
0
Location
Lake Charles, LA
This is the first time I've ever dealt with this problem on a vehicle before, so I'll to my best to explain what might be going on.
I was on the way to pick up a new lower radiator hose and new water pump (just in case), and I noticed that something just didn't feel right at all. There was a little wobble and the steering wheel seemed to pull a bit, especially after a bump. Then the noises started. Loud pops and bangs, a steady "whump whump whump" that increased/decreased with speed, squealing, screeching, and grinding. I parked it at the auto parts shop, checked and filled the fluid in the rear pumpkin, changed the hose, tightened a couple nuts and bolts, and had one of the guys give it a whirl around the parking lot to see what he thought. He's a race car driver, and his sponsor was there also. Even the sponsor took it for a spin, parked it, and said he'd follow me home but to stay slow. Then he showed me what the issue was.
(I apologize for non-technical terms)
All pics are driver's side front. In the pic with my hand, the part I'm touching can move freely with little pressure. The pitman arm wobbles while turning as well. Pretty much every connection between rods that I can find is loose, and all the rubber washers are in bad shape.
On the way home (15-25mph for 4.4 miles), the noises continued, and the brake pedal was far too easy to depress. At one turn, the pedal went all the way to the floor and the brake light came on. It stayed on for a bit, but worked again just in time to stop in the driveway and not crash through the garage.
As it's labor day weekend, I know getting parts and someone with knowledge/tools to fix this won't be easy. However, this is my daily (only) driver. My parents have offered to drive me around as much as their schedules will allow, but I would like to get this back on the road ASAP. There is a member that offered a very very fair deal, but it's more than I can afford and more parts than I need. From what I've gathered, I need tie rod end, pivot arm, drag link, sway bar, and who knows what else. I really don't know all this stuff, so I'm in a bind. I'm not exactly financially secure, and not sure what to do.
Any assistance and help is very appreciated.
 

Attachments

Last edited by a moderator:

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,196
314
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
I think you lost front hub bearings, from what you said aboit the noise, "Loud pops and bangs, a steady "whump whump whump" that increased/decreased with speed, squealing, screeching, and grinding", does NOT come from ball joints but comes from bad hub bearings, the bad hub could have beat the ball joints all to he11. The steer pull and the brake issue also comes from BAD HUB BEARINGS.
 
Last edited:

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
Bad wheel bearings would also possibly cause loss of brake pedal.

I think Ron is on the right track.
 

pgwaldner

Member
94
0
6
Location
Haleyville, Alabama
Same thing happened on my son's m1009. The spindle (wheel bearing) nut had backed off, ruined the wheel bearing and spindle nut and the locking hub. Fortunately we have a parts truck that had good spindle nuts and hubs. Hate to think what could have happened though. Good luck.
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Same thing happened on my son's m1009. The spindle (wheel bearing) nut had backed off, ruined the wheel bearing and spindle nut and the locking hub. Fortunately we have a parts truck that had good spindle nuts and hubs. Hate to think what could have happened though. Good luck.
I do not recall if it was my current M1009 or one I sold where one of the spindle nuts was loose when I checked it. Both of my M1009s I inspected the bearings when I bought them, one of them I was able to losen the nut by hand. So I was lucky that I was doing this check when I did. I checked all the bearings and they where fine. repacked them and installed everything back nice and tight. I also checked my M1010 and they were fine.

It does sound like that is the OP problem with the bearings. You can borrow the tool from Autozone for free, just put the $100 deposit.
 

a175

New member
175
0
0
Location
Lake Charles, LA
What's the best way to go about looking and seeing what is broken and what is normal? If I get a break in the rain, I'd like to get under the truck and check it out. Would it be safe to jack it up a bit and maybe put lift block under the front axle? Don't want to get my head squished.
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Crawling under it while on the ground is what I do, but, you can go by a parts house and pick up a set of lift/jack stands. Please don't work under a vehicle without the stands in place.
To clarify, never trust a hydraulic lift jack to hold the vehicle up. Hydraulic jacks can fail and there is no warning when they do.
 

a175

New member
175
0
0
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Got two jack stands...i don't know why I called them blocks. Always use them as I'm pretty attached to this whole idea of staying alive.
Anything obvious I should check? Gonna try to get a list together of the parts I'll need.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,196
314
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
Got two jack stands...i don't know why I called them blocks. Always use them as I'm pretty attached to this whole idea of staying alive.
Anything obvious I should check? Gonna try to get a list together of the parts I'll need.
FIRST read the TMs (silly me, I know that you did this already)
Pull the wheels and hubs, to see which hub is bad, I would replace ALL hub bearings on both sides, see if the spindle can be saved.
I would NOT allow the race driver and sponsor to work on the truck, calling all the noise that you said was there in your first post "ball joint" tells me thay need to stay driving and sponsoring, and let there mechanic do the fixen.
 

a175

New member
175
0
0
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Tim,
I'll probably wind up doing that, pending weather. Had some other stuff I wanted to talk with you about anyways.

73m,
Yeah I was kinda thinking about that, considering the differences in prognoses. I'd rather take the word and experience of MV experts.
I must admit not going full-blast on TM's. I'll get on it.
 
Last edited:

a175

New member
175
0
0
Location
Lake Charles, LA
So, truck is in lifted and supported. Lug nuts are off. Having issues taking the tire/wheel off, though. When I grab the tire and wiggle, the bolts that the lug nuts mount onto move with it. That's not too encouraging. I took off the hub cap, and was looking for this "clamping plate" listed in the TM's. I could be retarded, but I just don't see it. Doesn't mean it's not there. Tim, I'll be calling you tomorrow... this thing is kicking my butt.
 

a175

New member
175
0
0
Location
Lake Charles, LA
More pics. Here's the guts I pulled out of the center hub thing. Wheel still isn't coming off.
On the last pic, this was just some bolt looking thing that looked like it had weld around it. Is that normal?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks