niferous
Member
- 715
- 6
- 18
- Location
- Houston, TX
Looks pretty chewed up. The good news is that new hubs arent that outrageous. I paid around $45 for mine. Yours may be more.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
CUCV Help in/near Central Louisiana
- Thread starter a175
- Start date
a175
New member
- 175
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Lake Charles, LA
$45??? Everything I see is almost 10 times that
a175
New member
- 175
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Lake Charles, LA
Here's what I took of today. All the joints in the steering linkage/tie rods need replacing...which means the linkage/tie rods need replacing I guess.
Attachments
a175
New member
- 175
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Lake Charles, LA
Need to get one of those pitman pullers. This should be a salvageable part, but I'd like to inspect it.
Attachments
a175
New member
- 175
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Lake Charles, LA
Here's where I stopped. Took off the upper and lower bolts on what I believe is called the steering knuckle. I have new ball joints, so I'd like to replace them, but can't figure out how to get the old ones out. Checked TM's all the way to 20, 20p, 34, and 34p and still out of luck. Myabe I'm missing it.
Attachments
a175
New member
- 175
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Lake Charles, LA
Here's the parts I took off today. Passenger front spindle seems to be in great shape. Lucky me! There is an awful lot of rust everywhere though, and I guess that's to be expected. I was surprised to see rust INSIDE the axle though.
Lesson learned the hard way...
The mantra is if it's rubber, replace it. My only excuse was lack of money and time. Now I'm out of more money and time than I have. I'm neither a mechanic nor an engineer, but looking at everything all the rubber seals were shot. My theory is that when the seals went bad, the grease got dirty and/or leaked out. The only think left lubricating metal-to-metal was crud, leading to friction, heat, and parts failure.
It's been said a million times, and it still didn't sink in to me until it was too late. Let this be a lesson to any other newcomers getting into the CUCV game. Don't repeat my screw up.
Operator error sucks- there's nobody to point the finger at except for yourself.
Lesson learned the hard way...
The mantra is if it's rubber, replace it. My only excuse was lack of money and time. Now I'm out of more money and time than I have. I'm neither a mechanic nor an engineer, but looking at everything all the rubber seals were shot. My theory is that when the seals went bad, the grease got dirty and/or leaked out. The only think left lubricating metal-to-metal was crud, leading to friction, heat, and parts failure.
It's been said a million times, and it still didn't sink in to me until it was too late. Let this be a lesson to any other newcomers getting into the CUCV game. Don't repeat my screw up.
Operator error sucks- there's nobody to point the finger at except for yourself.
Attachments
- 133
- 0
- 16
- Location
- Edinburg, MS
Try this site for good info on GM 10 bolt.
Steering Knuckle - Home.
Am in the process of doing the same rebuild. PM me if you need help.
Steering Knuckle - Home.
Am in the process of doing the same rebuild. PM me if you need help.
- 133
- 0
- 16
- Location
- Edinburg, MS
As I was! I see you are woking on Dana 60. Try this.
Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive.
Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive.
a175
New member
- 175
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Lake Charles, LA
Crap.... so I have king pins instead of ball joints?????
- 133
- 0
- 16
- Location
- Edinburg, MS
Yep.
a175
New member
- 175
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Lake Charles, LA
Hmmm. That changes things, yet also clarifies them.
a175
New member
- 175
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Lake Charles, LA
Lower King Pin Bearing Cap help...
The little bastard won't come off! I can't get a screwdriver or chisel in between it and the knuckle so I can start prying. Any suggestions?
The little bastard won't come off! I can't get a screwdriver or chisel in between it and the knuckle so I can start prying. Any suggestions?