• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

CUCVRUS Repair Projects

dougco1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
820
550
93
Location
Cooperstown NY
Today I was able to get all my lawn equipment back in the running. I had issues with belts on my Land Pride mower. It was eating belts. The OEM one lasted 20 years but I was eating thru 2 after markets a season. I bit the bullet and bought the $70. Land Pride belt. Sometimes you just spend the big bucks and save the cost of 4 good belts and the carnage that happens when they blow apart from not fitting properly. I should have known but I listened to others. I had this grill guard idea for years. I was going to weld this into a CUCV brush guard. I never did. It is from a Thermo- King unit top cover. Brand new damaged scrap. View attachment 834558 Here I go again replacing and painting parts. View attachment 834559 All sanded and ready for prime and paint. View attachment 834560 That was easy. View attachment 834561I used a piece of CUCV door seal for a hood seal. View attachment 834561 The original one was long gone and the hood rattles at 15 MPH. View attachment 834562 I made a little grille guard for the Kubota to protect my grille debris screen. I had it fall off in the past when in the woods loading firewood. Just a small sturdy light weight protector. View attachment 834562 I trimmed it out with some more of the door seal and cut the bulb seal from it. Keep in mind the hood must open toward the front and that requires no interference from the guard. Mission accomplished. View attachment 834563 I also sanded on the CARC some more today. I want that job done this week and want to make progress at other places. I think they pored the CARC on the rear floor area. Take Care and Be Safe.
Good to see your maintaining that gem. I bet that Kubota is all of 35 years old now.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,279
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
it is a 1994. It is the B7100HST. It is 4WD and if it had AG tires I would go off road more often. But I must say these little tractors are built well. Everything fits perfect and it is so simple to work on and maintain. So 26 years old in June. Thank you.
 

dougco1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
820
550
93
Location
Cooperstown NY
it is a 1994. It is the B7100HST. It is 4WD and if it had AG tires I would go off road more often. But I must say these little tractors are built well. Everything fits perfect and it is so simple to work on and maintain. So 26 years old in June. Thank you.
I've owned a B 2150 "9 speed standard" since the late 80s. Bought it new with the bucket, hard cap, front mount snow blower, tiller, and 9" post hole auger. I think its one size larger than your 7100. I love mine so much the wife says she will use it to burry me when I go.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,279
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Did you ever have one of them weeks when everything that could go wrong has gone wrong? I am thankful for my ability to repair things and get them running again. I took 3 days off of work. I rented a stump grinder Wednesday to grind 3 big tree stumps out of the yard. I went and picked it up and on the way home the header pipe on the drivers side of the CUCV broke off and bellowed straight pipe noise. I hated it. I could not get it to be quiet no matter how I drove. And having to floor it when I start it to get Gen 2 to charge was no plus. I picked up the grinder and hauled it on the trailer. DSCF7700.JPG I On Sunday I pulled one of the bigger stumps out of the hole and broke a hydraulic line on the back hoe. DSCF7699.JPG The pipe was probably weakened by all the torque and motor flexing during the stump pulling. After I did the stump grinding I looked at the truck and said no way am I driving it like this. The PA state inspection is good till March 2022. DSCF7701.JPGI looked around and came up with a plan. I cut 12 inches of swing set pipe from a Flexible Flyer swing set. I split the piece down the full length and cut them in half. I had 4 pieces and used a hose clamp to align and set the pieces in as a splice. I tightened the hose clamp and used 2 new 2 1/2" exhaust clamps. this was my day off and I could not find anyone to fix it now and the one shop said $100. I did this repair in 20 minutes and it does not leak. DSCF7702.JPG It would pass inspection. Not my best but if it works it fly's on exhaust this old and rusty. DSCF7703.JPG I took the stump grinder back to the rental store without incident. The truck ran like a new one. I floored it and it shifted like day 1. Sounded great again. Same as it always has been. When I got back home I wanted to mow the yard before the weather. Keeping in mind this is my day off. I always have things to do. Always. I started the mower and went at it. It is a 1989 Honda 3813 and has been with me all them years. The blades were acting like I was in high grass and kept shutting the mower off. Never happened before. It missed a few times and shut off. I cranked it and it just spun with no effort. I peeked in at the timing belt cover it is not turning. Nice. The engine is scrap. DSCF7704.JPGIt took the belt out and I know I have another engine for 15 years from another mower that was burnt. Bought it and never needed it. If it was an air cooled engine I would have used it several times. Add the radiator and I am limited. I pulled the engine and with a Honda that means strip the entire chassis. DSCF7705.JPG Engines side by side and I made the discovery. The flywheel keyway broke and spun the flywheel on the crankshaft. Probably could be fixed but I have the other engine. I installed the engine and reassembled it. I fired it up and the engine ran perfect. I engaged the blades and the missing and stalling started again. Well ???? is going on. I looked under the tractor and seen the pulleys going around but the main one would stop immediately when power was taken away. Lovely. I worked till 9PM and went out today and worked on it all day. The bearings in that pulley had chewed the pulley hole larger than the new replacement sealed bearings. The parts were discontinued for this old Honda. The New bearings were $20. I set them in place and used 3M panel adhesive to glue them into the pulley. I reassembled the pulley to the deck and will let it dry till Monday. I took off work to get my jobs done but ended up fixing everything that broke for me. I am confident that this will hold it has 4500lbs of adhesion and can withstand 250 degrees of heat. I was going to tack weld the bearings when this glue idea came to mind. I thought about how many things I fixed with this adhesive. Today I spent the entire day getting the deck out from under the tractor and apart. I sand blasted the pully race and the outer perimeters of the bearing assemblies before gluing.
I live by this motto.
“If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.”
Have a great weekend. I have fishing tomorrow and a wine festival to attend. I know nothing can go wrong there. I don't drink I just pour wine and discuss the bouquet and flavor. A much more sophisticated environment. I get paid well doing this. Take Care and Be Safe. 2 little engines sitting side by side. DSCF7706.JPG
 

LT67

Well-known member
654
499
63
Location
Bowdon, GA
it is a 1994. It is the B7100HST. It is 4WD and if it had AG tires I would go off road more often. But I must say these little tractors are built well. Everything fits perfect and it is so simple to work on and maintain. So 26 years old in June. Thank you.
I have a 2016 Kubota 3301 4wd. It's great for maintaining my flat 7 acres. The major issue is any hillside; it becomes very unstable if you're not going straight up😳. It'll make ya pucker up...
 

Attachments

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,279
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
May be an image of outdoors
Anyone know this guy? He has some nice old old military vehicles. Always shows them in correct time period. Very nice. I would like to have another GPW someday. Maybe. Then again Maybe not. But I walked by this Jeep and I couldn't smell it running. That is the ones I like. No smoke from the tailpipe and no squeaking or rattling. This was the Jonestown Memorial Day parade yesterday.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,279
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Mr. Rusty M1028 is back in for it's annual use and abuse check up. The owner said the rear brakes were spongy and he has been adding DOT5 fluid to the small reservoir of the master cylinder. I discovered a slight leak at the clamp on the axle tubing where the 3/16" brake tube was rusted thru. That was all new tubing summer of 2015. I guess that's the new normal. I will be using the better brake tubing this time around. It was handy to use the standard GM tubing as I had a 100 ft roll of it. I made the goal to discover the leak and remove the rusted line. That was after mowing grass and my other outside chores. Take Care and Have a Great Day. I am going to replace both rear axle sides. Preventive maintenance is the rule. Fix it before it breaks. If it's not broke don't fix it always ends up broke at the most inopportune time. Most times -10* or pouring rain along a road far, far away. The truck is one of my creations from a trailer I bought for scrap with no title. It holds a lot of water has been the biggest issue. I need to add a few Kazoo drains. DSCF3677Mr Rusty.jpg
 

LT67

Well-known member
654
499
63
Location
Bowdon, GA
Mr. Rusty M1028 is back in for it's annual use and abuse check up. The owner said the rear brakes were spongy and he has been adding DOT5 fluid to the small reservoir of the master cylinder. I discovered a slight leak at the clamp on the axle tubing where the 3/16" brake tube was rusted thru. That was all new tubing summer of 2015. I guess that's the new normal. I will be using the better brake tubing this time around. It was handy to use the standard GM tubing as I had a 100 ft roll of it. I made the goal to discover the leak and remove the rusted line. That was after mowing grass and my other outside chores. Take Care and Have a Great Day. I am going to replace both rear axle sides. Preventive maintenance is the rule. Fix it before it breaks. If it's not broke don't fix it always ends up broke at the most inopportune time. Most times -10* or pouring rain along a road far, far away. The truck is one of my creations from a trailer I bought for scrap with no title. It holds a lot of water has been the biggest issue. I need to add a few Kazoo drains. View attachment 835834
I recently had the factory steel brake line that connected to the T fitting on the rear axle split in half on my 79 K20. It wasn't rusted, it just split in half where it connected to the fitting
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,279
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
No these were rusted thru. And the more I twisted the more they broke. I think the nickel coppers will work great. They are weaker but that is a toss up between rust and strength.

But if the 1979 had the OEM lines 42 years is a great run. I'm older then that and still going but I have weak areas also. Hope to last a few more seasons. Take Care.
 

chevymike

Well-known member
581
451
63
Location
San Diego, CA
No these were rusted thru. And the more I twisted the more they broke. I think the nickel coppers will work great. They are weaker but that is a toss up between rust and strength.

But if the 1979 had the OEM lines 42 years is a great run. I'm older then that and still going but I have weak areas also. Hope to last a few more seasons. Take Care.
I have switched over to Ni-Cop brake lines and have had zero issues. So much easier to work with, flair (don't overdo the flaring since they compress much easier than steel, in the flaring tool) and don't rust. I buy it in 25' roles.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,279
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Well fixing the brakes was very easy. I replaced the axle brake tubing with the nickel copper brake lines and bled the rear brakes. I bought a QT of DOT 5 fluid. It was $25. Ouch. But that was what I needed and I bought it. Fixed the problem. After looking at the oil change it has not gone over 200 miles since last year so I will replace a broken mirror and grease the entire chassis and drive line. Good enough till next year. I have the rusted thru exhaust manifold. I want to show you a picture of that. I opted to sublet that job. I supplied the manifold and they done the work. I wasn't feeling the love on that job. Take Care. I have an M1009 here that I rebuilt back in 2014. It need some transmission and rear differential TLC. More later. Take Care.
 

Indyharleyguy

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
209
61
28
Location
Carmel IN
How do you drain a fuel tank still attached? I'm trying to drain mine and it appears I'm not getting past the bend that goes into the tank?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,279
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
You can get it down to a 1/4 tank by connecting into the auxiliary tap on the sending unit. If you start a siphon from that point it will draw it down to 1/4 full. But other then that I just block the tank and carefully remove the skid plate on the M1009 and the bracket bolts on the truck models. Many times on the truck models I opt to just remove the entire cargo bed. Good Luck. I hope that helps you out.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,279
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Today after my regular job I came home to the heat and went to work on my customer vehicles. Mr. Rusty needed greased and the steering stabilizer changed. I opened the box on the new stabilizer and no attaching hardware. Fortunately I was able to glean some hardware from my scrap pile and reuse it on the new stabilizer. It took less time to do that then it would have to call and complain. Done. I also found the rear axle fill plug was rounded out and used a vise grips to remove it. That was fairly easy so I filled the gear oil and reattached the filler plug. I can get it out again. I was covered in rust particulates after I was done with that job. I did this job as my last job of the day and washed parts of the CUCV down the drain in the shower. My Wife swept me off with a broom and brush before I entered the house. It was hot and sticky outside today. Take Care and Be Safe. I still have the fluids under the hood to check before I return it to the customer. Rust never sleeps. I put brand new Monroe gas shocks on that truck in 2015. The upper covers are rusted thru on the rear ones. I hear the rust chewing on quiet nights.
 
Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,279
9,625
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
After checking and topping off all the fluidsDSCF7730.JPG I decided it was time to wrap up this project with a wash down. I sprayed it with Simple Green and scrubbed it with a white 3 M sanding pad. This is before. DSCF7732.JPGDSCF7733.JPGDSCF7734.JPGDSCF7735.JPG It sits in the woods all the time on top of the north side of the mountain. I also wanted to show the rusted thru exhaust manifold. I opt out of that job. DSCF7731.JPG I seen engine blocks rusted thru and had a CUCV that the center casing on the Dana 60 was rusted thru. Snow plowing is hard on vehicles. I seen some damage to the front bumper DSCF7737.JPGand made quick touch up with the sawzall.DSCF7738.JPG Looks better to me. N/C. DSCF7746.JPGAfter the wash it don't look bad. Not good but not bad. Take Care and thanks for looking. Moving along.DSCF7736.JPG
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks