Death of a Multifuel

[gimpyrobb]

Hey Matt, no I'm going to use the turbo off of my old engine. I still need to find an exhaust manifold gasket for it.

PM sent!

 

[General Mcgregor]

Made some progress on this job today.

Started out early with coffee and donuts, had a lifelong buddy over for the help and company. We started by first dropping a side of the bed and turning it into our workbench. We drained the remaining oil and coolant from the block and radiator, saved the coolant for the break in of the new engine.

Next we removed the air cleaner and all of the plumbing, the heater and hoses were next. Made sure that we noted all hardware and connecting points with some dilligent note taking and photography.

The radiator came next, not terribly difficult but did need to remove the fan for clearance and pull it out with the radiator.

Disconnected the tach cable, air line and regulator line.

Next pulled the exhaust flex pipe from the back of the trubo.

Disconnected electrical leads to manifold heater, oil pressure sender, starter relay, starter and generator.

Removed the relay from the block.

Disconnected ground straps, fuel line, fuel return line, engine stop cable and throttle linkage.

Just started on the transmission, pulled the shifter and floor panels. Next week I'll be dropping the trans and unbolting the engine mounts. I have a front end loader lined up that will be pulling the motor, it should lift it high enough that I will not need to remove turbo or generator.

I put the grill and side panels back on for the time being so I could close the hood and shield everything from the elements.

Thanks to my friend I have six pages of notes regarding hardware, parts and disassembly proceedures. Plenty of pics too.


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[SEAFIRE]

Good Luck,
we went through this in 2010: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?60305-Engine-swap-fun

On a side note, one of our mechanics used to work for a dredging company, he said once he was called to a tug boat that had an "engine noise", in the engine room he found the engine running with a hole in the block with a connecting rod going back and forth. He killed the engine, removed the rod, patched the hole, the engine ran until it got back to dock.

 

[3rdaavbn]

Yep, It is all about how somthing is rated by the military. 2600 rpm redline. 10,000 lbs winch, All of it based on the very minimum proformance required.

 

[Carlo]

Ever since I read this I baby my M35A2 more than ever. I flushed out the radiator this weekend. I have never ran the rpms over 1900. I just cant bring my self to pushing it this hard.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Can anyone point me to where I might find the torque specs for:
A. Valve cover bolts
B. Pressure plate bolts
C. Turbocharger mounting nuts

 

[vtdeucedriver]

Can anyone point me to where I might find the torque specs for:
A. Valve cover bolts
B. Pressure plate bolts
C. Turbocharger mounting nuts

Thought I had a LDT manual. All I have is for the LDS.
Valve cover bolts...............36-60 in lbs
Pressure plates...............115-120 Ft lbs

For the install of the turbo, I did not see a torque listed as all the book says in install in reverse order for removal...............HA.
Now again this is for the LDS and the book is dated SEPT 1964 so things might have changed.

 

[gimpyrobb]

While I can understand that number is in the TM, the valve cover torque is awe-full high! I would just snug them down. That style gasket doesn't take much torque to seal well.

 

[DieselBob]

From the Continental Aviation and Engineering Corporation manual for the LDS-456-1A, 1968

Turocharger to exhaust manifold bolts: 23 to 27 lb/ft.

 

[gimpyrobb]

From the Continental Aviation and Engineering Corporation manual for the LDS-456-1A, 1968

Turocharger to exhaust manifold bolts: 23 to 27 lb/ft.

...and the valve cover needs 35-60? Sumptins not right there.

 

[DieselBob]

...and the valve cover needs 35-60? Sumptins not right there.

The spec for the rocker covers is a lb/in not lb.ft so 30~60 lb/in isn't very much.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Missed that part! That makes more sense.

 

[TNJMurray]

We have good take offs in stock . Tnjmurray.com

 

[General Mcgregor]

So made some more progress today, removed the starter and took apart the turbo.
I also dropped the trans, I removed the tailshaft, clutch, and pto linkages yesterday.
The transmission removal proceedure that I used is outlined in the following thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?60303-Yet-another-transmission-replacement-thread! This time however, the removal went much smoother.

I pulled the engine mounting bolts and bushings as well, so it's ready to come out as soon as I have the time and a tractor.
-GM

 

[Vintage iron]

Glad she is moving ahead! I hope it will be ready for the Weare NH meet!

 

[General Mcgregor]

Thats the plan man! Hope to see you there.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Quick question for anyone who knows.
My new multi has the red paint on the flywheel face and the pressure plate disc, do I need to remove that paint completely before I install the clutch or is it ok to leave it on? I have heard conflicting opinions.
-GM

 

[Vintage iron]

The paint is to protect the flywheel surface from rust during storage. Sand it off the flywheel face using a orbital sander with 220 sand paper. Make sure to keep the sander flat and finish the cleaning with Lacquer thinner.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Pressure plates...............115-120 Ft lbs

Dont think these specs are correct, didn't get anywhere near that before I stripped out two pressure plate mounting holes on the flywheel. Don't know what the heck to do now! Heli coil? Longer bolt? Wider bolt?

 

[Ford Mechanic]

Dont think these specs are correct, didn't get anywhere near that before I stripped out two pressure plate mounting holes on the flywheel. Don't know what the heck to do now! Heli coil? Longer bolt? Wider bolt?

What size bolt is it????