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Somebody get that bot some help! If he doesn't get those 395's mounted and get to play with at the GA rally, his head may explode!
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Diablo Build Update (pics)
- Thread starter devilman96
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devilman96
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Im a bad enough MV'er sometimes as is... My own personal guilt wouldn't allow a man whom has more than I do going on to do work on my truck when I am capable of doing it... but to lazy to get done!!!
With that said... FINISH YOUR WRECKER!!! lol
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Go fetch my cab and I'll get right on it.
alphadeltaromeo
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*...senses some dissension in the ultra-South...* 
devilman96
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ultra? ... Your mean little NY... or little Cuba... ultra stops at about LA... (lower Alabama) 
joq867
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Hello, Just got done reading the entire post, took almost all day. I am very impressed with your effort and ability to work so hard in the oppressive heat of Fl. Hope you get everything fixed so you can enjoy your toy. Whats the point of having a toy you can't play with? Good luck!
devilman96
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Well... Here is the low down...
I took a few days off from the store... I had to... Partially due to loosing my mind over parts orders and partially because I am neglecting my own stuff so badly... Im sure someone will yell at me for it but .... ehhhh... Shhhhhh... I need a few!!!!! Like the above posting, what's the point if you cant enjoy your toy... Not to mention I am sponsoring the 2007 Georgia SS rally which is 5-6 weeks away... Being that Im a sponsor it might be prevalent to be able to show up actually driving the truck. Because its so hot during the day I've flip flopped my schedule and have been sleeping during the day and up all night in the shop... Its not exactly fun but its a lot cooler and much easier to work like this in August.... 97 v/s 79 degrees... you tell me?!?!?
My toy is being a PITA to be nice about it...
Im not sure what exactly to say happen... I know I had a clutch arm coming loose... I don't know if that was cause or result or??? but I have a lot of messed up crap from this happening... I decided that I don't have the time to play "have the same shop fix it".... Besides if they couldn't get it right before why bother giving them seconds? I am torn on making up my mind about the arm coming loose or the assembly not being balanced after they put it back together... All I know is im having to replace the clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal, transmission input shaft and transmission input shaft bearing, as well as having to tear out the interior of the truck, replace the carpet and a few other things... I half way wondering if I should not be dropping the oil pan and looking at the thrust on the rear main bearing also... I think im going to pile up the receipts and labor in this and go have a conversation with a certain clutch shop when I am done!
So... a new clutch assy... Being that I am in the MV parts business now and knowing what I know I really could kick myself fro not ordering a new one to begin with especially now knowing the differences in clutch types... Im going to attach some images below showing the old one and the new style set ups and there is a HUGE difference is quality and design. If you look the images over you can see the older 4 arm style... I was sold on these under the thought that 4 arms would be more supportive, giving better lift to the plate, etc, etc, etc.. Have it next to the newer 3 arm style I can tell you that is not the case!!! The new style is much more robust and far better designed.
The friction plates are the same... The older 5 arm style is quite weak and frail looking compared to the newer full disk type not to mention you have 6 friction plates compared to the older having only 5. I would also venture to say you would get far less flex and better balance out of the new plate. I've heard some guys bagging these about being a Chinese knock off as they are an New Star part... There not... both parts are made in the US. Knowing what I know now and for about a 40$ cost difference in rebuilding v/s brand new I would never bother rebuilding a M35 clutch pack!!!
Any who... Friday I was slated to install this thing but on closer inspection my pilot bushing (which was just replaced) is fried. *annoyed*... It seems the out of balance rotating mass of a bad clutch going *flipity flop* can really screw some things up... Being that I have every part for the clutch assy but the pilot bushing in stock in the store you can imagine how hard I was / am kicking myself over that little part... If I had a million dollars in inventory I would still be lacking something!!!! So... Needless to say I will have pilot bushings in stock next week and I also found a alignment tool which fits deuce clutches so Im thinking I will start putting together clutch kits!
Ok... ok... ok... back to the truck...
With the clutch on hold for another week I got back to the punch out list (which is 12 miles long) and decided to pick off the mirrors... Being that I had the bed off forever it was easy to drive with out it, after shorting and reinstalling it though its become a hazard to say the least. I had west coast style mirrors when I got the truck but I wanted to do something more modern looking as well as having the ability to fold them back out of the way for off road and hurricane use (my point to having the truck)... I have done a few Jeep conversions using the newer style Wrangler mirrors on the older CJ's before the now popular "bracket" sets were available on the market so I decided that I would go with those. The bracket sets I've seen have a major flaw in the fact that they don't "ratchet" so the mirrors tend to walk backwards from the air hitting them so I wanted to avoid dealing with that which took some machine work but I think its worth the 8 or so hours I put into them... The design is pretty simplistic looking but the mirrors lock (ratchet) into 4 places and stay put when folded out or in like the ought too... Now all I need is some powder coating and 2 inch fish eyes and I will be good to go...
... and on to other tinkering!
One hot topic around this place has been oil filtration systems... Since I've designed mine I think we now have about every version of oil filtration systems come out in the past year. John T has a civilian mod for spin on filters following the older white tractor design and Builder77 has done a great job with is Wix 1970 spin on set up. When you toss my remote mount into the mix you have pretty much every available option you could want on your truck with in your grasp... Err... Well... almost?... Maybe not!!! One thing that has been well beat to death but not "done" yet (for purchase) is the addition of a bypass filter system... I've been watching Bjorn's work with a remote mount I sent him several months back and have decided that I would follow his lead in design and start producing a kit for the LD, LDT and LDS which of course starts with my truck being the lab rat. I don't have photos yet but the kit will be a bolt on jobber with no modification to the existing oil system and install in about 1 hour. Bjorn's idea of retuning the oil to the rear sump via the oil plug was the light bulb that gave way to being able to allow Joe Deuce to being able to install it on his truck with out needing to knock a hole in his oil pan for a return line... Being that oil plugs are cheap and require minimal machining to them it will allow for a very "affordable" kit...
I took a few days off from the store... I had to... Partially due to loosing my mind over parts orders and partially because I am neglecting my own stuff so badly... Im sure someone will yell at me for it but .... ehhhh... Shhhhhh... I need a few!!!!! Like the above posting, what's the point if you cant enjoy your toy... Not to mention I am sponsoring the 2007 Georgia SS rally which is 5-6 weeks away... Being that Im a sponsor it might be prevalent to be able to show up actually driving the truck. Because its so hot during the day I've flip flopped my schedule and have been sleeping during the day and up all night in the shop... Its not exactly fun but its a lot cooler and much easier to work like this in August.... 97 v/s 79 degrees... you tell me?!?!?
My toy is being a PITA to be nice about it...
Im not sure what exactly to say happen... I know I had a clutch arm coming loose... I don't know if that was cause or result or??? but I have a lot of messed up crap from this happening... I decided that I don't have the time to play "have the same shop fix it".... Besides if they couldn't get it right before why bother giving them seconds? I am torn on making up my mind about the arm coming loose or the assembly not being balanced after they put it back together... All I know is im having to replace the clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal, transmission input shaft and transmission input shaft bearing, as well as having to tear out the interior of the truck, replace the carpet and a few other things... I half way wondering if I should not be dropping the oil pan and looking at the thrust on the rear main bearing also... I think im going to pile up the receipts and labor in this and go have a conversation with a certain clutch shop when I am done!
So... a new clutch assy... Being that I am in the MV parts business now and knowing what I know I really could kick myself fro not ordering a new one to begin with especially now knowing the differences in clutch types... Im going to attach some images below showing the old one and the new style set ups and there is a HUGE difference is quality and design. If you look the images over you can see the older 4 arm style... I was sold on these under the thought that 4 arms would be more supportive, giving better lift to the plate, etc, etc, etc.. Have it next to the newer 3 arm style I can tell you that is not the case!!! The new style is much more robust and far better designed.
The friction plates are the same... The older 5 arm style is quite weak and frail looking compared to the newer full disk type not to mention you have 6 friction plates compared to the older having only 5. I would also venture to say you would get far less flex and better balance out of the new plate. I've heard some guys bagging these about being a Chinese knock off as they are an New Star part... There not... both parts are made in the US. Knowing what I know now and for about a 40$ cost difference in rebuilding v/s brand new I would never bother rebuilding a M35 clutch pack!!!
Any who... Friday I was slated to install this thing but on closer inspection my pilot bushing (which was just replaced) is fried. *annoyed*... It seems the out of balance rotating mass of a bad clutch going *flipity flop* can really screw some things up... Being that I have every part for the clutch assy but the pilot bushing in stock in the store you can imagine how hard I was / am kicking myself over that little part... If I had a million dollars in inventory I would still be lacking something!!!! So... Needless to say I will have pilot bushings in stock next week and I also found a alignment tool which fits deuce clutches so Im thinking I will start putting together clutch kits!
Ok... ok... ok... back to the truck...
With the clutch on hold for another week I got back to the punch out list (which is 12 miles long) and decided to pick off the mirrors... Being that I had the bed off forever it was easy to drive with out it, after shorting and reinstalling it though its become a hazard to say the least. I had west coast style mirrors when I got the truck but I wanted to do something more modern looking as well as having the ability to fold them back out of the way for off road and hurricane use (my point to having the truck)... I have done a few Jeep conversions using the newer style Wrangler mirrors on the older CJ's before the now popular "bracket" sets were available on the market so I decided that I would go with those. The bracket sets I've seen have a major flaw in the fact that they don't "ratchet" so the mirrors tend to walk backwards from the air hitting them so I wanted to avoid dealing with that which took some machine work but I think its worth the 8 or so hours I put into them... The design is pretty simplistic looking but the mirrors lock (ratchet) into 4 places and stay put when folded out or in like the ought too... Now all I need is some powder coating and 2 inch fish eyes and I will be good to go...
... and on to other tinkering!
One hot topic around this place has been oil filtration systems... Since I've designed mine I think we now have about every version of oil filtration systems come out in the past year. John T has a civilian mod for spin on filters following the older white tractor design and Builder77 has done a great job with is Wix 1970 spin on set up. When you toss my remote mount into the mix you have pretty much every available option you could want on your truck with in your grasp... Err... Well... almost?... Maybe not!!! One thing that has been well beat to death but not "done" yet (for purchase) is the addition of a bypass filter system... I've been watching Bjorn's work with a remote mount I sent him several months back and have decided that I would follow his lead in design and start producing a kit for the LD, LDT and LDS which of course starts with my truck being the lab rat. I don't have photos yet but the kit will be a bolt on jobber with no modification to the existing oil system and install in about 1 hour. Bjorn's idea of retuning the oil to the rear sump via the oil plug was the light bulb that gave way to being able to allow Joe Deuce to being able to install it on his truck with out needing to knock a hole in his oil pan for a return line... Being that oil plugs are cheap and require minimal machining to them it will allow for a very "affordable" kit...
Attachments
- 10,350
- 77
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Sorry to read about your clutch problems, Mike.devilman96 said:
The MF engines have two dip stick bosses, depending on how the oilpan is oriented. I'm now using the unused one for my (bypass filter) return for the lds465 engine....
The oil drain plug is used for the preoiler, need to enlarge the port size for my hand oiler, though.
- 10,350
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- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
As for the mirrors, check out the m656/xm757, they were a hot item back in the late sixties and seventies when they first became available, from what I read.
NSN 2540-00-168-2186 (RH) and 2540-00-168-2187 (LH).
NSN 2540-00-168-2186 (RH) and 2540-00-168-2187 (LH).
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mangus580
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How DARE you? I cant believe you took time off.... Its a wonder I couldnt get in touch with you!devilman96 said:
devilman96
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Im takin today too so... ZIP IT!!!
Ok so I am only half way ripping off your idea then!!! LOL... Sorry to mix the two up, when I saw your work it flipped on the light bulb and the brain started smoking...
If you need something fabricated on the plug assy for the prelube box it up and ship it to me, If I remember correctly from the image I could proably tig a 1/2 fitting to the plug if need be.
mangus580
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Hey, I figured if I said something.... maybe nobody else would!!devilman96 said:
Crazyguyla
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Nice looking mirrors.. do they come with heat? with directional blinkers? electric remote??? j/k They look good, when I get to installing mirrors, those look like a nice addition 
They look good, when I get to installing mirrors, those look like a nice addition
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Why not, he's got heated seats! Just what you need in the 900° daytime temps here in FL (humidity factored in). BTW, powdercoating is easy here, Just apply the powder and move the item in question outside into the sun.Crazyguyla said:Nice looking mirrors.. do they come with heat? with directional blinkers? electric remote??? j/k
- 10,350
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- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Thanks Mike, I'm simply putting 1/2" NPT threads in the drain plug, it's only 1/4" now.devilman96 said:
Here is an image of the LDS dip stick boss (ports uncovered for the camera), perfect for the oil bypass filter drain. The small one in the lower right, the large opening is the turbo oil drain, of course.
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SasquatchSanta
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Bjorn Sez:
Do you think the hole in the oil drain plug can be made large enough to accomodate zero or below oil viscosities for a preoiler?
.
Do you think the hole in the oil drain plug can be made large enough to accomodate zero or below oil viscosities for a preoiler?
devilman96
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On a LDT... doubtful... Bjorn's engine in the XM is a LDS and has larger plugs in it
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Here is the difference, LDT on the left. The LDS465-2 also has a magnet and uses the same plug for drain and fill on the differentials also (that's where I pulled one for the picture).devilman96 said:
The solution to viscosity problems in the cold is simply to heat the oil pan.
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Crazyguyla
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the clutch comparison looks like a Wimpy bag Vs a HEFTY Bag!!!!