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nice. when I did mine I had already had the oil cooler out (to get to the oil pan) and flushed it manually in a bucket. I used a 1.5" box wrench that's a good wrench for backhoe lines.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
From fire truck to MTV
- Thread starter aw113sgte
- Start date
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- La Crosse, WI
Not a bad view from our most recent trip!
Have figured out how to remotely interface with the Arduino controller using common radios. This way I can control anything remotely the microcontroller has control over -which is nearly everything. Only have non-harmfull options available to control for now but if I go to an encrypted system I'll enable far more control.
Have figured out how to remotely interface with the Arduino controller using common radios. This way I can control anything remotely the microcontroller has control over -which is nearly everything. Only have non-harmfull options available to control for now but if I go to an encrypted system I'll enable far more control.
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- Portland, OR
How are you sending commands? Keying up the mic?
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Sending DTMF tones with radio keypad.
The receiving radio has its speaker input fed into a tone decoder, that spits out a 4 bit code for the Arduino to read. For transmission from the truck, Arduino is connected to microphone input and a tone can be generated. The radio has vox enabled to detect and transmit the tone/tones.
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That’s pretty sweet! Are you still able to use the radio for voice communications as well?
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I could, it's just a standard radio, the DTMF tones are already built into the radio so it makes it quick and easy to get up and running. In theory I could have an Alexa device or something similar in the habitat, and command it over the radio as well.
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Did this a few weeks ago, but always disliked the pushbutton light controller. The manual one is so much easier to use. After a few weeks of use I definitely won't be going back!
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Lol you don't like pressing "enter" every time?
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F no. I know some like the pushbutton, but not this guy.
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Being that a metal box isn't the best for cell signals, working on installing a booster. So far tests have been very promising. This will allow us more freedom as we sometimes need internet for work.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
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Have you looked into Starlink "Roam" service? It's specifically for mobile users like RVs. Works in motion.
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I have, I really hate subscriptions and since we already have a phone plan I'd like to make that work if possible. It's a secondary plan if this doesn't work for us.
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Well, I finally got around to painting my rusty eco hubs. Sandblasted, primed and painted with Rust-Oleum flat black professional. Makes for very easy touch ups.
Also installed brand new CTIS assemblies, some of mine were looking crusty (all worked perfectly though, as I rebuilt them last year, hoses were a little rough though.
Have the cell booster fully installed, ordered a threaded knob so I can easily swap positions to gain clearance.
Also installed brand new CTIS assemblies, some of mine were looking crusty (all worked perfectly though, as I rebuilt them last year, hoses were a little rough though.
Have the cell booster fully installed, ordered a threaded knob so I can easily swap positions to gain clearance.
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It's a proven fact they work better when painted.
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I've heard if I paint them red my truck will be faster
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Replaced the gaskets on the oil cooler to avoid the potential for filtered oil mixing with non. Turbo shaft was smooth as could be with no play. Since it's not yellow I'm guessing it was replaced at some point.
Installed some gas springs on both pass through doors. Door to habitat was coated in lizard skin thermal and now no more condensation in below freezing.
Working on setting up the Xterra to be towed behind. Tow bar mounts are on, have to install the air brake and electrical systems. Tow bar rated for 65,000 so hopefully it doesn't break.
Installed some gas springs on both pass through doors. Door to habitat was coated in lizard skin thermal and now no more condensation in below freezing.
Working on setting up the Xterra to be towed behind. Tow bar mounts are on, have to install the air brake and electrical systems. Tow bar rated for 65,000 so hopefully it doesn't break.
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Had another trip this weekend, I'll start with the highlights...the negatives piss me off and are at the bottom.
Wonderful state park with very dark skies, some river crossings, incredible silence with no road noise. Kids found a friend and rode bikes, had wrestling matches, cooked smores. Had some great food over the fire, enjoyed some great peace and quiet as the sun came up.
Now for the negative...
Replaced all my CTIS wheel valve assemblies with these: https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/replacement-ctis-wheel-rim-valve-air-hose-assembly/
From the outside they looked like NOS units and I didn't inspect too closely. They certainly looked good, the hoses were the correct length, high pressure. The wheel valve looked the part with the color correct corrosion coating, as well as the fittings. I did have some difficulty on two of the banjo fittings (out of 7) where they were a little tight but was able to make it work by just turning the bolt. I did also find it a little odd the o-rings had a little mold flash on them but since everything else looked good I continued.
Unfortunately on our trip I learned the details of how this was some poorly engineered copy. Upon arriving at our campsite, I heard air coming from the QRV (quick release valve). Took a little bit of poking around was able to stop the leak by removing the Philips head screw on the valve body and pushing on the aluminum cup. Taking it apart, I noticed it has these half assed backing features that are ramped and push the aluminum cup into a binding situation. Also saw that every part of the OEM has a part number...not a single one of these new components does. This is not the first time I've been screwed by crappy midwest's "engineering" and had to fix their issues. Thankfully I had just enough tools to limp home. I ended up flaring out the cup with a pair of pliers, then airing up and disconnecting the CTIS controller once it was at acceptable pressure.
OEM on left. Notice the part numbers and the large backing lugs on the aluminum outer cap from the OEM one, rubber diaphragm on OEM also has part numbers. Spring constant on OEM is slightly lower.
OEM on left.
Good design of backing protrusions:
Total crap design of backing protrusions. You can see the aluminum that's been deposited on the ramped surfaces:
Wife took a few pictures of me stressing out about possible solutions to avoid getting stuck.
Wonderful state park with very dark skies, some river crossings, incredible silence with no road noise. Kids found a friend and rode bikes, had wrestling matches, cooked smores. Had some great food over the fire, enjoyed some great peace and quiet as the sun came up.
Now for the negative...
Replaced all my CTIS wheel valve assemblies with these: https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/replacement-ctis-wheel-rim-valve-air-hose-assembly/
From the outside they looked like NOS units and I didn't inspect too closely. They certainly looked good, the hoses were the correct length, high pressure. The wheel valve looked the part with the color correct corrosion coating, as well as the fittings. I did have some difficulty on two of the banjo fittings (out of 7) where they were a little tight but was able to make it work by just turning the bolt. I did also find it a little odd the o-rings had a little mold flash on them but since everything else looked good I continued.
Unfortunately on our trip I learned the details of how this was some poorly engineered copy. Upon arriving at our campsite, I heard air coming from the QRV (quick release valve). Took a little bit of poking around was able to stop the leak by removing the Philips head screw on the valve body and pushing on the aluminum cup. Taking it apart, I noticed it has these half assed backing features that are ramped and push the aluminum cup into a binding situation. Also saw that every part of the OEM has a part number...not a single one of these new components does. This is not the first time I've been screwed by crappy midwest's "engineering" and had to fix their issues. Thankfully I had just enough tools to limp home. I ended up flaring out the cup with a pair of pliers, then airing up and disconnecting the CTIS controller once it was at acceptable pressure.
OEM on left. Notice the part numbers and the large backing lugs on the aluminum outer cap from the OEM one, rubber diaphragm on OEM also has part numbers. Spring constant on OEM is slightly lower.
OEM on left.
Good design of backing protrusions:
Total crap design of backing protrusions. You can see the aluminum that's been deposited on the ramped surfaces:
Wife took a few pictures of me stressing out about possible solutions to avoid getting stuck.
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Took out the front coil springs, this leveled the truck and made for a better ride. A1R only had those spring for future armor so without it, it was overly stiff.
Had a check engine light today, cat et showed a high voltage on the boost sensor. $280 for the sensor and a lot of fighting I got a new one back in.
Finished all the setup for towing the Xterra and took it on a test. Using the 7 pin harness and air brake service line. All lights are functional, the brake activates proportionally with the MTV brake. It also has a breakaway tether to automatically engage the Xterra brakes. A little tough to conbect by myself but normally I'll have the wife and kids around to help.
Had a check engine light today, cat et showed a high voltage on the boost sensor. $280 for the sensor and a lot of fighting I got a new one back in.
Finished all the setup for towing the Xterra and took it on a test. Using the 7 pin harness and air brake service line. All lights are functional, the brake activates proportionally with the MTV brake. It also has a breakaway tether to automatically engage the Xterra brakes. A little tough to conbect by myself but normally I'll have the wife and kids around to help.
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Would you mind sharing some details on how you are applying the brakes on the towed vehicle?