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Functional wheel valve after CTIS removal (?)

Awesomeness

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My M1078 Tires/Rims use a regular Tire Valve inside the stem but the stem is not the ones they use on regular tires. I thought you could just fill each tire using the valve? When I pulled the Hose off the Hubs Stud that feeds it no air leaked? I have heard of a fitting you can use instead of the Air System that can screw into the opening on the rim.
I think a few things might be getting confused. The LMTV rims use a standard-style valve stem, but the valve core has been removed so that the CTIS can inflate/deflate it at-will. Usually what people are talking about is that they are looking for what kind of valve core to stick in the valve stem, in the event they need to remove the CTIS valves (e.g. because of damage). Otherwise, with the CTIS valves removed and no core in the valve stem, the air all just leaks out.
 

Swamp_Fox

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I think a few things might be getting confused. The LMTV rims use a standard-style valve stem, but the valve core has been removed so that the CTIS can inflate/deflate it at-will. Usually what people are talking about is that they are looking for what kind of valve core to stick in the valve stem, in the event they need to remove the CTIS valves (e.g. because of damage). Otherwise, with the CTIS valves removed and no core in the valve stem, the air all just leaks out.
Yes, This is what I am needing. I tried a valve stem off a car and it was too small.
 

coachgeo

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I think a few things might be getting confused. The LMTV rims use a standard-style valve stem, but the valve core has been removed so that the CTIS can inflate/deflate it at-will. Usually what people are talking about is that they are looking for what kind of valve core to stick in the valve stem, in the event they need to remove the CTIS valves (e.g. because of damage). Otherwise, with the CTIS valves removed and no core in the valve stem, the air all just leaks out.
soooooooo...... anyone come up with a solution on this? Would like to rob my 1082 trailer of valves and hoses
 
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coachgeo

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soooooooo...... anyone come up with a solution on this? Would like to rob my 1082 trailer of valves and hoses
looks like found the answer..

UPDATES ARE COLORED or just jump to Post 29.... where all the trials and tribulations discussed below finally netted a working solution. Oh.... and not figured out yet is the solid bolt size/threads to replace the banjo bolt needed to finish off this project. Will update end of thread once know for sure this part.

NOPE>>>>>>> BELOW INFO IS MOSTLY WRONG... . apparently MonkeyJack fits LARGE BORE Shrader Valve... while our tube is larger than standard bore's OD... thus why a few mentioned that this product must be what is needed..... apparently this is WRONG. While the schrader valve's tube is larger than a "standard bore" automotive Schrader valve tube's OD. it is NOT so large to be the size of a typical Large Bore. It just has a thicker wall.....

External---- Large Bore NO DOES NOT WORK ... I ordered below and tried it on the LMTV Schrader Valve. It is the wrong one.. One; he Hutchinson wheel does NOT use Large Bore. and two threads used on most the trucks stems are not there to attach an external one too anyway.

Internal- MAYYYYY BE works....... May matter what Schrader valve you have. Appears there are two different ones that ended up on the LMTV's Hutchinson Steel wheels. One made by Oshkiosh? another by Haltec. More on this as you read further down in the discussion. BTW this discussion was split out of another thread cause it hijacked that conversation. Splitting it out was just right thing to do. Thus it leaves this one a little janky.... still good info though.

do not think this Monkey type adapter by Haltec is large bore so in theory it should work.
https://www.amazon.com/Haltec-Valve...keywords=Haltec+adapter&qid=1629995792&sr=8-4

Since is a regular valve core goes inside the Schrader Valve stem's long tube; a Monkey type such as the internal Haltech above adapter is one solution. Solves the CTIS tube being a tit to big for air chucks...... with out it you cant fill the tire if you do not have a special air chuck...... (well that is what was thought.. solution found.... see post 29).
 
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Mullaney

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looks like found the answer..

External

Internal

Both seem to be designed to work with a shrader valve inside the citis wheel tube.... and saw pictures of folk who did it. So guess out there somewhere is a large bore sharder valve you put inside the cits tube then the monkey. Monkey is needed cause the CTIS tube is to big for air chucks...... so you cant fill the tire if you do not have the monkey.
.
Good information to have! AND those Monkeyjack valve adapters would be cheap insurance to have in the truck any time.
Small, somewhat inexpensive and not something you could buy at the average parts house!
 

chucky

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looks like found the answer..

External

Internal

Both seem to be designed to work with a shrader valve inside the citis wheel tube.... and saw pictures of folk who did it. So guess out there somewhere is a large bore sharder valve you put inside the cits tube then the monkey. Monkey is needed cause the CTIS tube is to big for air chucks...... so you cant fill the tire if you do not have the monkey.
Im not sure by the pictures but 3 hrs ago i had the very valve stem in my hand and there are no threads on the outside of the stem untill your 3/8 of an inch down the stem and the rubber protector just about covers them up. The inside thread looks just a little bigger than a big truck valve stem core
 

coachgeo

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Im not sure by the pictures but 3 hrs ago i had the very valve stem in my hand and there are no threads on the outside of the stem untill your 3/8 of an inch down the stem and the rubber protector just about covers them up. The inside thread looks just a little bigger than a big truck valve stem core
what year truck? did see that there was a difference in later models in some pics I saw that match what you say.... there for the internal Adapter is likely better for later years..... so those who want to try this should most likely just get "internal Adapter" so they can do use it no matter what stem they end up having... Haltec PK5 maybe?
 
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INFChief

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My 2 Rear Tires should be here Tue/Wed this coming week. I figured I would save money and remove the tire & rims myself so I tried today. Removed the 20 lug nuts what a job! I had to use a 3/4" Air Impact Driver. The Tire Shop was concerned about the 40 smaller bolts holding the rims together and air hose getting broke. So I removed them but left 2 loose ones hold it together till I can get help.
Just not sure I can handle these tires yet removing them from the hubs. It weighs more then twice my weight!! If I can get them on my tractor forks I will try to bust one the rest of the way apart and save $100.00+ per tire. I cleaned the parts up on the wire brush and all bolts came loose but 2-Lugs took forever to get off!! No way could I bust these loose with a 4 ft cheater bar giving it everything I had?? I will post a picture later tonight. They used "Blue Loc-Tite" on the Allen Head Bolts you better have a good fitting one also to get them out!
Will you replace the CTIS rubberized washers on the banjo bolt?
 

INFChief

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are they rubber or copper? If they are copper you can anneal them with propane torch if your local napa does not have the right ones.
I removed a tire assembly and put the spare on today. The washers on my CTIS banjo bolts are malleable metal with a rubber center that binds on the threads of the through bolt. Yours could be different.
 

coachgeo

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chucky

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btw sorry for the hijack.

Moderator feel free to split my post starting at # 28 on thru this..... off into another thread all on its own. I can then edit #28 so it fits as an opening thread post better. Didn't speculate it would take up so many post in this thread.
97 truck but the wheels seem to be 2005 . I want something that would thread on rite where the stem comes thru the wheel so i air the tire rite there and take all this ctis stuff off and just run a bolt back in the stud the air comes from .
 

coachgeo

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97 truck but the wheels seem to be 2005 . I want something that would thread on rite where the stem comes thru the wheel so i air the tire rite there and take all this ctis stuff off and just run a bolt back in the stud the air comes from .
that is the point.


and apparently you do NOT need large bore schrader valve.. it is a standard valve..... but threads are rather deep inside the tube (ON THE OSHKOSH? version of this part- Not so with the Haltec version ... two mine so far must be Haltec )so you need the longer screw driver type shrader driver to put it in/out. Been warned to be gentle cause if you break schrader deep in the tube you are a fawked. Maybe put anti seize on it?
 
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chucky

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that is the point.


and apparently you do NOT need large bore schrader valve.. it is a standard valve..... but threads are rather deep inside the tube so you need the longer screw driver type shrader driver to put it in/out. Been warned to be gentle cause if you break schrader deep in the tube you are a fawked. Maybe put anti seize on it?
Even if you did get the schader valve down into it you couldnt put air in the tire with a regular air chuck
 

chucky

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maybe just cut/grind the unthreaded part of the stem down to the threads and find whatever sise cap to protect the schrader
 

coachgeo

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Even if you did get the schader valve down into it you couldnt put air in the tire with a regular air chuck
yes no

the internal adapter described here IS what is needed to use a regular air chuck.. (UPDATE- ) but so far no one has tried the internal adapter to see if it fits these tubes rather it be Oshkosh's or Haltec's valve stem type

or get special air chuck like below one a user said worked for them. This is IFFF you dont plan to use anyone elses air hose (or keep adapters around so you can adapt between different hoses.) Tis why I like the Monkey Jack. allows for regular air chuck

 
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chucky

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yes no

the MonkeyJack described here IS what is needed to use a regular air chuck..

or get special air chuck if you dont plan to use anyone elses air hose (or keep adapters around so you can adapt between different hoses.
ok thanks for the info !
 
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