GETT 23kw 120000btu - Applied Companies

[NEIOWA]

Model # Generator, ECU, Tent, Trailer (GETT )

GETT23P120 23 kW Paralleling Generator, 120,000 Btu/hr

Just picked up for my FD. 1400hr. Looks clean complete and in good condition. Isuzu engine.

Now charging the Optima the batteries which do not seem to hold a charge.

Anyone have words of wisdom regarding these units?

 

[Socommfg]

The Optima must be charged by hooking to another battery and then connecting to charger. They require a minimum voltage to charge from.

ernie

 

[NEIOWA]

Unless you have a 'modern" charger with AGM setting/mode.

 

[Suprman]

How old are the batteries? Those gens usually need some new fuel line its usually dry rotted. Easy to replace over the counter stuff though.

 

[NEIOWA]

Unit is Apr 2010. Battery date unknown (installed when received it last week).

 

[Suprman]

The batteries usually have at least manufacturer dating of some type on them. If you are planning on putting it into service I would get 2 new batteries and change all the filter. Replace any lines that look cracked. All the ones I have had, have a battery maintainer onboard. Does your AC unit have refrigerant?

 

[NEIOWA]

Anyone know a source of the flexible ducts used with these units?

Ideas on finding a TM? mfg hasn't responded. I thought liked out and found TM in the tool box but was only the M1102 part.

 

[NEIOWA]

Optimas took a charge and genset fired right up (has 1200hr). No load other than the Eviro Unit blower. Temp seems bit high at 180degree. Oil Pressure is pegged (reads high). Need to find manuals.

25mph wind at 40degees directly blowing into the Enviro Unit - heat coils got only slightly warm so not sure if have a problem or not. What is the school technique to cleaning the return filter on the Enviro Unit? Air compressor blow gun is inefficient.

The ISUZU is certainlhy louder than MEP803 but that blower is anyhow.

Need to find 12" and 16" flex duct if anyone knows a source.

 

[Poccur]

PM me your email address and I can send you the manual..

As for ducts...Ducts Unlimited are about as good as anyone....or Cardinal Rubber or Flexaust.....

 

[Suprman]

Do you have the generator manual?

 

[rsms]

If you discover anything on you heater coils not producing heat I would be curious to hear as everyone of mine I have bothered to try also do not produce much heat. It hasn't been a pressing issue for me but at some point it probably will.

 

[Suprman]

They don't make a lot of heat.

 

[NEIOWA]

Anyone have a line on source of 12" heater ducts?

 

[rsms]

I've struggled to find ducts in the past. I did get lucky last year and bought 2 pallets of new 12" ducts but they are hard to find. I don't have any extra as of today but that might change shortly once I get all my systems worked out. I will keep you in mind once I know what I will have to keep. The ones that I have not been able to find in quantity are the 18" returns. If you or anyone else find these I would also be a buyer for these. On a side note, I will be posting in the classified 50+ new UEC 60a equipment/load side panel mount plugs very shortly if you are planning on keeping your generator using all military cabling. (this is not meant to be an advertisement or classified ad, only meant to be informative)

 

[Suprman]

Connector and cable or just the bare connectors?

 

[rsms]

I only have the connectors for sale currently. I do have a very good wholesale outlet for buying SOOW cable and the correct PICO crimper with dies for making cables as I make all of my own cables. I would be able to build cables for others in the near future once I get a couple of pending projects out of the way if someone was interested.

 

[Suprman]

I have soldered those big pin connectors its just alot of work to put the cables together and Im lazy.

 

[rsms]

I'm curious, how did that work out? I was originally considering doing this also but after a lot of reading I found mixed opinions on this. I ended up just buying a crimper (not cheap) and then the correct dies (also not cheap) as I have plans for several cables. The crimper makes it very short work and does provide an excellent result but the cost is pretty ridiculous if you aren't using it often. I wish I would have just found someone semi local that could have done it for me but I looked everywhere and couldn't find anyone.

 

[Suprman]

I have the smaller hand crimper it wont do those big pins. You have to lay out the whole assembly with cable. Dont want to get it partially together and then see you forgot a piece and have already started soldering. I used really thin 60/40 solder. Thinner the better. Need something to hold the pin in place and the wire. Dont want any movement during soldering or while the solder is cooling. Easy holders are needle nose pliars with rubber bands on the handles. You dont want to give the wire too much heat the insulation will start to melt back. You can tin the wire then cut it down if needed. A good pencil tip solder station works well. Like a Weller something good that gets nice and hot. Not gonna work well with a cheapie. You can heat the pin, fill it with a bit of solder and while its hot and the solder inside is molten put the wire in and keep applying heat to the pin you can feed in some more solder to fill it in. Once all the pins are soldered on they just push in the back of the connector. There is usually a rubber piece that you put the wires thru before you solder the pins on that compresses when its all put together and holds the wires tight. The pins usually lock in so make sure you get them in the connector in the right order. There is a special tool that slips around them from the front of the connector if you need to remove a pin. Sometimes the connectors come with the tool. The output cables on these gens are a standard mil 60a 3-phase connection its used in a wide variety of mil equipment. The cables probably get repurposed rather than sold off.

 

[rsms]

That does sound like a lot of work to solder them together..... Everything about these cables is expensive but the end product is very nice. You are 100% on how they go together. The pin removal tool does make it a lot easier to remove the pins if need be. I've heard of people using a piece of tubing also to remove them, I haven't tried it but don't see why it wouldn't work as the removal tool is basically a machined tube with a handle on it. I think you are correct on the cables being repurposed or possibly cut up for scrap as they are very hard to find. Not being able to find them is why I decided to make my own.