help with starting without Starting fluid.

[gimpyrobb]

Funny Horst responded, That write up and pics were from the email I sent him so he could do his HH swap.

 

[crazywelder72]

imitation is the best form of flattery

 

[Horst]

I don't believe I want to come across being the expert. I have just recently been there and do know now a little bit the errors to be made changing the HH for the first time. For example I dropped that little pin in the grass and took me an hour to find it again. I installed the HH 180° out of phase only to find that out after a phone call with Gimpy. So I had to remove and install it for the third time. First time I removed and installed it, I did not even know that the plunger button exists and was wondering why the engine would not start...

 

[zout]

Now that this thread has continued I will add my worthless comment to it.

I have fired terminal managers and drivers alike for spraying any type of starting agent into a company owned vehicle. If it were an owner operator - you can spray Mary Poppens unbrella in there all you want all day long and we could care less.

If all mechanical operations of the truck were working properly - you do not need a starting agent of any type - if you do - GET IT FIXED FIRST and leave the spray at the vendors for them to sell it to some other person (I was going to say Idiot - but I knew this would rattle someone) - so I did not say it).

Look at the can and see what chemical components that starting agent is made of - if it has any type of agent that is similar to brake clean it will wash the oil lubrications from a diesel engine cylinder walls in incubation stages and that is where it all starts - in incubation stages.

Get whatever the problem is repaired that brought you to the point you think you need to spray something in the intake to fire it up.

 

[crazywelder72]

No worries... This is my first diesel motor. That makes me the idiot (but i am learning fast).

Back to the problem, or i should say the HH removal question. I am literately at the 1/2 way point. Everything has been going fine, just slow. I am at the point where the timing mark under the 4 bold cover is lined up (within a 16th).

How am i supposed to index the gear in the HH with the red tooth? I cant remove the HH until this lines up. I can rotate the hh about 1/8th turn until that 12 point bolt touches the mounting stud.

 

[derby]

Sometimes the mark is there but it has no paint. You have to look real close.
I have wedged my head under the fender and behind the tire and looked through the louvers to see it.

 

[crazywelder72]

but how do you turn it to line it up?

 

[crazywelder72]

this is a Pain in the *ss

 

[OverSizeHeavyHauler]

Dont worry CRAZY....Im probably gonna end up doin the same thing...as Gimpy says that might be the problem with mine.

Mine has a lil drip every 60secs or so on the turbo from the Intake Heater..SOOOO, Im gonna try and plug/cap both FEED/RETURN lines with brass before I take my only spare AMERICAN HH and put it to use.

If not, It may just be my FDC, as mine doesnt have the adjustment screw deal, and I have to give her a 1-2 second snort of diesel from an garden sprayer in the filter housing.

 

[crazywelder72]

my feed and return lines were coupled directly into each other. it shouldn't be feeding at all unless your on the switch as i think it has its own pump. I am glad you have a spare American HH, but beggars cant be choosers (and right now i'm begging).

I need to learn more about this FDC after i get this HH swap done. I dont understand what it does or its importance. it sounds like a lot of people by pass it. question #1 why? #2 how?

 

[OverSizeHeavyHauler]

i bought mine bout 2yrs ago, just because it was a new American HH.....and I REFUSE absolutely REFUSE to buy chinese if i can buy American. I paid like 250.00 for mine from a man out in Georgia.

The FDC is (from what I gathered) a valve that compensates for the different viscosities of different fuel and will open up or close the valve so the IP can use Kerosene, DSL, WMO, Aviation, WVO......heck probably piss if its strong enough ( Im not gonna ask, nor will I find out to let ya know-gross)....BUT you can enrich the IP by turning up a nut..some call it a Smoke screw, some call it a Droop screw....I call it a turner upper.

But, yous and I's is in dee same boat homey....I just grabbed my garden pump sprayer to get DSL in there instead of ether. Just makes sense, some how.

 

[gimpyrobb]

#1 it can leak fuel into the motor's oil.
#2 I'll tell you when we talk.

 

[derby]

1. They are known to leak fuel into the crank case.
2. mine was plugged right at the FDC and the line moved to the HH inlet.

The FDC was designed to adjust fuel rate for various types of fuel.

 

[crazywelder72]

is that the part when people bypass it, it now becomes a diesel only motor?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Nope, still a multi!

 

[gimpyrobb]

The fuel density compensator ONLY adjusts how much fuel is sent to the motor based on the BTU content in the fuel.

 

[derby]

Most folks I talk to say the notice little differance after the bypass with other fuels.

 

[crazywelder72]

so some things i noticed when disassembling the HH today. The orifice for injector #3 was dry as a bone and had some surface rust in it. The other lines had a puddle of fuel in them. I think there was one other port that was almost dry like this was.

also the rod that has to be slid out (near the cut saftey wire) was covered in brown rusty surface crap. i'll get a pic tomorrow of it

 

[OverSizeHeavyHauler]

who talk? me an you? or you an Crazy?

 

[crazywelder72]

me and gimpy