help with starting without Starting fluid.

[crazywelder72]

I don't know? you still need to disconnect all 6 injector lines from the top and get them out of the way to lift the HH out. these lines don't flex to much. all the line clamps had to come off. i removed the 3 injector lines closes to the cab completely. This is just some of the details that sneak up on you. Besides the fender is a nice place to sit and keep your tools.

 

[crazywelder72]

today's update.

I started putting everything back together. shortly into it after connecting the internal fuel cutoff rod with the clip. i checked the movement. the dam thin stopped dead at 6 o'clock position again. I was just empty with emotion and out of ideas. it was doing the same movement as the old HH. anyhow i noticed when the throttle is depressed to the floor it goes to 7 o'clock position and when you lift your foot it goes back to 6. (whatever at this point) i had a little better feeling so i took my time and buttoned it all up.

getting ready to bleed the injector lines at the injectors, (i figured its like doing brake lines) had my friend bump the starter to get some fuel and the dam thing fired right up. it was idling very poorly (but it was running so i was pumped) as i was trying to continue to bleed the lines and it got better but not perfect. it will hold idle around 1000r.p.m. but if i back it down to 800 it climbs and falls to 400. when i pull out the manual adjuster 4 clicks thats where she holds at 1000 r.p.m.

i am not sure if i got all the air out of the lines or the best way to do it.

also is this something that can be corrected by adjusting something on the HH or anything for the fuel pressure.

(thanks Martin)

 

[derby]

Just letting it run will push most, if not all the air out of the lines. Since You had the lines cracked any way you prolly have it all out. I know of no adjustments on the HH.

So, Starting problem solved ?

 

[crazywelder72]

Starting problem is solved! Now I need to see if all 6 injectors are working OR is the injection pump not suppling all injector lines. When I was trying to bleed them, some lines never showed me a sign of fuel spurting out. I didnt undo them all the way since they are a bear to do..

Oh hears a thought, the timing marks on the crank... Does every revolution put the proper cylinder at tc? Or could I have installed this with all the timing marks lined up but the wrong cylinder at tdc?

 

[crazywelder72]

I may have really messed this up and need to do it all over again?

 

[derby]

As long as #1 was at TDC compression stroke,and there were no valves open you should be good.

Pull the front valve cover and turn the crank so all the marks line up, then check the valves. You should not have any pressure on #1 intake and exhaust valves. The red tooth in the window should be one tooth to the right of the pointer.

 

[crazywelder72]

i will have to check... i'm such a dumbazz! i cant believe i did all that and never paid attention to any cylinder tdc never mind #1. Theres no work like rework!!!

cylinder 1 is closest to the radiator correct?

when you say "You should not have any pressure on #1 intake and exhaust valves." do you mean pressure on the valve springs or compression pressure? should the valves open or closed? im starting to repeat myself...

 

[derby]

#1 is closeest to radiator. No pressure on valve springs (from rocker arms), both valves should be closed.

 

[derby]

I have had to pull a newly installed head before. You can see now how you will be able to do it in 3-4 hrs. Practice makes perfect.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Nah, the engine hunting is not something you have messed up. I would run clean fuel through it for a week and see if it clears up. My truck that sat in a bone-yard hunted for a week after I got it running again. It cleared up and has been fine ever since. You said there was some nasty fuel in the tank, it might have gummed up the governor which is what makes it hunt. What do you have to lose by seeing if it clears up?

 

[crazywelder72]

well at least its not just me.. lol its just so much stuff to tear down. all those fuel rail clamps are the worst.... then the fuel shut off rod gizmo. then all the lines from the HH. i actually removed lines 4,5,6, completely to aid in removing 123 from the HH.

 

[crazywelder72]

Nah, the engine hunting is not something you have messed up. I would run clean fuel through it for a week and see if it clears up. My truck that sat in a bone-yard hunted for a week after I got it running again. It cleared up and has been fine ever since. You said there was some nasty fuel in the tank, it might have gummed up the governor which is what makes it hunt. What do you have to lose by seeing if it clears up?

i have no problem waiting... but i am not sure what you mean by hunting. if this is a timed fuel delivery i don't understand how it may be running ok injecting off time? i have 20 gallons of clean fuel in it but i was never able to properly clean the tank other than draining it, so its a mystery. during this "waiting period" should i just let it idle in my driveway or should i be taking it around the neighborhood. I am still getting used to it so i dont want to get stranded on the road even a block from my house.

 

[derby]

Gimp did you get an adminastrative re-set?

 

[derby]

You should get it on the road and run it. idling wont work the gov. much.
Gimp is prolly right about the timing. I just wanted you to make shure it was.
You may want to change the tank depending on how severe the dent is.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Crazy, you said the motor "hunted" between 400rpm and 800rpm. That reving up and down is what I was calling "hunting". If the truck starts easy, it sounds like you got it right. I would drive it a bit and see if the hunting clears up. If it pings or doesn't have any power compared to before, maybe you got it in wrong, but it doesn't sound like it to me.

Derby, check the "eat this kenny" thread. I had over 4 billion post count this morning.

 

[crazywelder72]

you guys are awesome.... thank god i dont have to tear into that bad boy again. i actually got sunburn today on my face and its only march.

I will have to listen for the pinging because besides getting it of the lowboy being delivered and driving the kids to school the other day i have nothing to compare the power to. Maybe i could have martincox take it for a spin, he has some hrs behind his and would have a better idea.

so should i keep the manual throttle position where the rpm is smooth or should allow it to hunt while i am putting around getting milk.

 

[gimpyrobb]

As long as it doesn't die, I would let it "hunt". That way you know the gov. is working some kinks out.

I didn't say you "don't have to tear back into it". I said you might not.

 

[crazywelder72]

ok... i'll give it some time and let it do its thing. if i have to go back in, oh well.... my friends will hate me but what can i do.

 

[crazywelder72]

Just letting it run will push most, if not all the air out of the lines. Since You had the lines cracked any way you prolly have it all out. I know of no adjustments on the HH.

So, Starting problem solved ?

The problem came back today. It fired right up this morning without any problem. Soon as air pressure was up I took the kids 1 mile to school. While I was driving while holding a steady foot it kept feeling like it would sputter a bit like I was lifting my foot.I instantly thought it was timing related but just wanted to get it home. I was a block from my house she died. I got to the side of the road and tried 1 time and cranked for 5-10 seconds and Nothing. I gave it a few minutes and tried with the manifold heater and nothing. 5 min later my friend gave a quick shot of starting fluid while I hit the starter and she cought instantly. Got it back in my drive way and shut it down and tried to just hit the starter only and it fired right up. What the f is going on?

 

[derby]

How much fuel was in it? Are You in a hilly area?

So cold it started right up and ran well? Do you have a pic of your fuel tank? I would like to see the dent in it.