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LMTV Air Conditioner

Smike740

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
199
15
18
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Here's something to be aware of when adding AC:

https://www.nsncenter.com/Library/PSMAG/PS_722?PageNumber=7

I don't think it was the cause of my fan clutch imploding but there was signs of minor contact between the bolts on the back of the fan clutch and the face of the AC pulley.
Thanks for posting this info. I just checked mine and there is evidence of the clutch bolt heads rubbing the pulley when the clutch is disengaged. I couldn't find any details for the referenced spacer. I can probably fab one, if anyone has the details on the thickness that would be appreciated.
 

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,637
381
83
Location
Spring Branch, TX
Thanks for posting this info. I just checked mine and there is evidence of the clutch bolt heads rubbing the pulley when the clutch is disengaged. I couldn't find any details for the referenced spacer. I can probably fab one, if anyone has the details on the thickness that would be appreciated.
I'm trying to get that info now. The person that passed the article on to me is checking and I had specifically asked him about thickness thinking I'd need to make my own.
 

Cobbtowncowman

New member
6
0
1
Location
Cobbtown, GA
My unit is a 5750 , so the hose hook up might be slightly different, but (and you probably already know this) generally speaking the heater core/heat exchanger doesn't care which direction the water flows. What makes the difference is which line has the flow control valve on it. This should be your inlet line. I believe the difference in the two units is the older style, 5750, had the cable control and the new unit had an electric control, regardless, inlet should be on the flow valve side. You should be able to see the flow control valve to figure this out. Hope this helps.
 

Rene M

New member
201
2
0
Location
Houston, Texas
FYI the condenser units are for sale on ebay. i know a few guys were looking not to long ago.
 
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dronsen

Member
109
12
18
Location
Bozeman, MT
Gents-

A few years ago my company used to install very high quality German 24VDC rooftop A/C units (on specialty trucks buses) and we had very good luck with them (the units and manufacturer support). Installation is super quick and easy...basically, cut hole, mount unit and seal, run 2 wires, turn on - a bit over-simplified, but complete installation in 3-4 hours. At 24V they provide 12k BTU/250 CFM @ 60A (70Lbs). All controls are on the cab ceiling - in reach of driver and passenger. Parts are readily available, exterior and interior housings can be painted. Units fit into turret rounds. We are going to start importing units again, but this time in 12VDC for a different application. I can add 24V units to our orders if there is interest, particularly from this group. NOT looking for any commitments, but LMK if you'd have interest or if you have any questions. Complete units would be about $1950/each. Some pix and dims attached.

Thanks,

Dave

24VDC Rooftop AC Unit - Model R67-24-11.jpg24VDC Rooftop AC Unit - Model R67-24-11 - DIMS.jpg
 

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CMPPhil

Well-known member
536
376
63
Location
Temple, NH
More I formation please

Gents-

A few years ago my company used to install very high quality German 24VDC rooftop A/C units (on specialty trucks buses) and we had very good luck with them (the units and manufacturer support). Installation is super quick and easy...basically, cut hole, mount unit and seal, run 2 wires, turn on - a bit over-simplified, but complete installation in 3-4 hours. At 24V they provide 12k BTU/250 CFM @ 60A (70Lbs). All controls are on the cab ceiling - in reach of driver and passenger. Parts are readily available, exterior and interior housings can be painted. Units fit into turret rounds. We are going to start importing units again, but this time in 12VDC for a different application. I can add 24V units to our orders if there is interest, particularly from this group. NOT looking for any commitments, but LMK if you'd have interest or if you have any questions. Complete units would be about $1950/each. Some pix and dims attached.

Thanks,

Dave

View attachment 643294View attachment 643295
Hi Dave

Looks like a very intestine unit, is there a Web link you could give us which would have more details?

Am I correct that this is a fully self contained unit that you just add electrical power and get air conditioning?

Cheers and thanks Phil
 

CMPPhil

Well-known member
536
376
63
Location
Temple, NH
Hi Dave

Looks like a very interesting unit, any chance of a link to more information?

Cheers Phil

PS this may turn out to be double post as being new to the forum, Im having problems with posts at time.
 

dronsen

Member
109
12
18
Location
Bozeman, MT
They are totally self-contained - just run 12 or 24VDC - controls are overhead, in reach of driver or passenger - we're thinking about $1950/each - See first post
 

Gunny 0369

Marine Gunnery Sergeant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
291
655
93
Location
North Carolina
UPDATE
I hope to install this unit in Feb 17, still hard at work on the 1086.MTV ..... The trucks are relatively easy to work on, but TIME CONSUMING....
AC unit arrived, well packaged and complete, with some good quality parts....
now well see.........

IMG_4283.jpg
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,409
2,503
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
I had to do the oil pan so here I am might as well but on the AC lower bracket. As per the pics the AC bracket goes in the two lower motor mount holes. So that leaves us with the Trans. cooler going on first then the AC bracket on top of that. That would leave a gap on the rear top mount. In the pic #14 looks like a spacer. What did you guys use just a washer of correct thickness to make up the gap? Tanks
 

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