Asymair95
Active member
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- Location
- Tucson, AZ
I had to add spacers on my cover too.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
M1078 LMTV Fix-up Thread
- Thread starter CallMeColt
- Start date
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- 113
- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
I bet it comes with them when the truck is built. The first time some new PFC removes it, they don't pay attention & they probably get lost without even realizing it.
- 1,026
- 1,475
- 113
- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
- 1,026
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- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
Not sure why, but I never posted my #2 video here. I edited a post to add it above but will post it again here;
- 673
- 894
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- SW Va, Roanoke County
Great presentation and information. wish I had that capability, I m just old and crusty
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- Wilson County, Texas
Thank you! I'm sure you could do it.
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- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
Another update complete. Project is coming along really well!
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- Wilson County, Texas
Well, I ordered 4 new tires & all the needed stuff to put them on. Should be fun!
Fixed a few more minor things.
Working on getting a crane mounted.
Fixed a few more minor things.
Working on getting a crane mounted.
- 1,026
- 1,475
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- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,147
- 3,462
- 113
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- North of Cincy OH
wondered when you would add your two hobbies together. Im going to have ton of flood potential of IR light via Ibis Tek search lights so am seeking how to best utilize this.
- 1,026
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- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
I actually just got my myself one of those Ibis-Tek searchlights with the white HID & the IR lights as well. Controller & all. I haven't quite made up my mind how I want to mount it on the truck. Trying to get everything 100% on the truck before adding the "fun" stuff.
coachgeo
Well-known member
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- 3,462
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- North of Cincy OH
yow........ you (if you got the one I think you got) paid a good penny for it. Price went up significantly on them.I actually just got my myself one of those Ibis-Tek searchlights with the white HID & the IR lights as well. Controller & all. I haven't quite made up my mind how I want to mount it on the truck. Trying to get everything 100% on the truck before adding the "fun" stuff.
PS- pmed you.
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- Wilson County, Texas
I actually got it for such a good deal I thought it was a scam, haha.
I'm not seeing a PM.
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,147
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- North of Cincy OH
lol.... made the post before the PM. didnt expect you to still be online
- 1,026
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- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
MrGoodwreck
New member
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- WA
I own a set of PVS7's, but the last time I drove with them was a tank trail at NCT in a 113.
Guess its time to bust them out.
Guess its time to bust them out.
- 1,026
- 1,475
- 113
- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
So, I have been battling with my CTIS! Have a gremlin in there. Been getting some help from the Facebook group but wanted to post it here as well so others that are having problems may be able to read through my process to help themselves too.
So, I got myself a new controller. Old one had solid 5 lights.
I also was missing a CTIS hose on one wheel. Finished changing all 4 tires & put a hose on the one missing it.
Also found one wheel didn't have a banjo bolt but a regular bolt. Replaced that.
Controller seems to be doing what it should as well as the unit in the passenger side kick board.
The issue I am having is the quick release valve at the rear of the frame was sticking open & the tire would go flat on the passenger side. Replaced that today.
Same issue still! I actually had the front one get stuck open as well. To make it stop, I would loosen the banjo bolt & let some air bleed out. The seems to cause them to close up.
I also notice during deflation, the passenger rear wheel deflates very slowly. It also inflates slowly. Not sure if this is linked.
Any ideas?! I'm kind of lost on this one. I'm guessing it's something with the wheel valves?
So, I got myself a new controller. Old one had solid 5 lights.
I also was missing a CTIS hose on one wheel. Finished changing all 4 tires & put a hose on the one missing it.
Also found one wheel didn't have a banjo bolt but a regular bolt. Replaced that.
Controller seems to be doing what it should as well as the unit in the passenger side kick board.
The issue I am having is the quick release valve at the rear of the frame was sticking open & the tire would go flat on the passenger side. Replaced that today.
Same issue still! I actually had the front one get stuck open as well. To make it stop, I would loosen the banjo bolt & let some air bleed out. The seems to cause them to close up.
I also notice during deflation, the passenger rear wheel deflates very slowly. It also inflates slowly. Not sure if this is linked.
Any ideas?! I'm kind of lost on this one. I'm guessing it's something with the wheel valves?
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- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
I got some replacement diaphragms for the wheel valves & a complete rebuilt wheel valve. Still the same issue!
As suggested, I tried setting the truck to XC but still, the same issue. I did go to the wheel valve on the tire that was leaking & was able to manually push it closed by using an allen key after removing the screw in the center. This made the quick release valve at the rear close. Oddly, one one of my frond wheels is now doing this but did notice after it leaked for about 15 seconds or so, it did eventually close. On the rear wheel that is was really hard to push it closed. Front was easy.
I also removed the banjo bolt & let the air just blast out a few times. Seems to have decent flow.
I replaced the entire wheel valve & hose on the one that was giving me the most trouble. I lubricated the rubber parts as suggested & made sure everything was clean inside the wheel valve. Replaced the little screen on the tire fill side as well. Seems to be the same issue.
I'm still a bit lost & am not sure what it could be though I have learned a bit more on how the system works. If it was an issue with the CTIS assembly under the dashboard in the cab, I would think all the wheels would have this issue.
I can see why people end up deleting the CTIS but it is one of the things I want working most.
As suggested, I tried setting the truck to XC but still, the same issue. I did go to the wheel valve on the tire that was leaking & was able to manually push it closed by using an allen key after removing the screw in the center. This made the quick release valve at the rear close. Oddly, one one of my frond wheels is now doing this but did notice after it leaked for about 15 seconds or so, it did eventually close. On the rear wheel that is was really hard to push it closed. Front was easy.
I also removed the banjo bolt & let the air just blast out a few times. Seems to have decent flow.
I replaced the entire wheel valve & hose on the one that was giving me the most trouble. I lubricated the rubber parts as suggested & made sure everything was clean inside the wheel valve. Replaced the little screen on the tire fill side as well. Seems to be the same issue.
I'm still a bit lost & am not sure what it could be though I have learned a bit more on how the system works. If it was an issue with the CTIS assembly under the dashboard in the cab, I would think all the wheels would have this issue.
I can see why people end up deleting the CTIS but it is one of the things I want working most.
- 1,026
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- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
Spent a few hours after work today doing a few things suggested after my first update.
I removed the line from the unit under the dash going to the wheels & put air to it with a compressor. The wheels were around 50psi. I could hear the wheel valves open then close... except the passenger rear... the one giving me the problem all along.
So, since this idea made good sense to me, I removed the hose on the axle at the passenger rear & did the same with the air compressor. Same issue. Removed the banjo bolt & did it again. Got some crap to fly out. So, I used a tube brush & worked a bunch of crap loose. Repeated this until I wasn't getting anymore. Put the banjo bolt on & tested again... wheel valve closed!
I hooked everything up as it should be except the line at the controller under the dashboard. Blew it again to make all the wheels open & then close... they did!
Got the truck full of air & pressed HWY on the controller. Filled it until it was solid & shut the truck down. Both passenger wheel valves were stuck open! I pushed them closed manually & did notice they were very easy to push in unlike last time.
So, my new controller has 80psi for the HWY setting... could this be my issue? Maybe the wheel valve springs are weak? Does anyone know the length of a good spring?
I ran out of daylight to try airing down to a lower setting like SAND to see if the valves close.
I removed the line from the unit under the dash going to the wheels & put air to it with a compressor. The wheels were around 50psi. I could hear the wheel valves open then close... except the passenger rear... the one giving me the problem all along.
So, since this idea made good sense to me, I removed the hose on the axle at the passenger rear & did the same with the air compressor. Same issue. Removed the banjo bolt & did it again. Got some crap to fly out. So, I used a tube brush & worked a bunch of crap loose. Repeated this until I wasn't getting anymore. Put the banjo bolt on & tested again... wheel valve closed!
I hooked everything up as it should be except the line at the controller under the dashboard. Blew it again to make all the wheels open & then close... they did!
Got the truck full of air & pressed HWY on the controller. Filled it until it was solid & shut the truck down. Both passenger wheel valves were stuck open! I pushed them closed manually & did notice they were very easy to push in unlike last time.
So, my new controller has 80psi for the HWY setting... could this be my issue? Maybe the wheel valve springs are weak? Does anyone know the length of a good spring?
I ran out of daylight to try airing down to a lower setting like SAND to see if the valves close.
- 1,026
- 1,475
- 113
- Location
- Wilson County, Texas
So, the airing down to SAND didn't change anything... I think.
As suggested, I checked all the different parts along the way to the rear axle. It seems the quick release valve I replaced back there is malfunctioning, at least when blow testing.
I'm having an issue where that quick release valve dumps a bit while filling. I disconnected everything from it & blow gun tested from the inlet. It slightly dumps.
I rebuilt the passenger front wheel valve.
All lines seem clear.
Blow test on the line going to the front quick release valve from where it splits coming from the controller under the dashboard does what it should. Wheels open up & fill then stop when I pull the blow gun off with a noticable pop of the air pressure from the wheels are making it seat closed. No pop from the line going to the rear but it did seal.
Note... All the above testing for update 3 was done around 50psi in my tires.
I decided to hook up the CTIS as it all should be to fill the tires to HWY 80psi the manually push closed any valve that stays open.
Rear quick release valve stopped dumping while filling. So confused!
Once it was done, the controller dumped the air from the system & both passenger wheel valves needed to be pushed closed manually. They closed easy & no leaking after that.
I feel so defeated everyone! I've put a ton of hours & money into this & seem to be chasing a ghost! All of your tips & help have made me learn so much but this darn CTIS system just doesn't want to be happy & work. Really just don't want to give up on it as it's one of the systems I really want to work on the truck for the sandy loam in my area.
As suggested, I checked all the different parts along the way to the rear axle. It seems the quick release valve I replaced back there is malfunctioning, at least when blow testing.
I'm having an issue where that quick release valve dumps a bit while filling. I disconnected everything from it & blow gun tested from the inlet. It slightly dumps.
I rebuilt the passenger front wheel valve.
All lines seem clear.
Blow test on the line going to the front quick release valve from where it splits coming from the controller under the dashboard does what it should. Wheels open up & fill then stop when I pull the blow gun off with a noticable pop of the air pressure from the wheels are making it seat closed. No pop from the line going to the rear but it did seal.
Note... All the above testing for update 3 was done around 50psi in my tires.
I decided to hook up the CTIS as it all should be to fill the tires to HWY 80psi the manually push closed any valve that stays open.
Rear quick release valve stopped dumping while filling. So confused!
Once it was done, the controller dumped the air from the system & both passenger wheel valves needed to be pushed closed manually. They closed easy & no leaking after that.
I feel so defeated everyone! I've put a ton of hours & money into this & seem to be chasing a ghost! All of your tips & help have made me learn so much but this darn CTIS system just doesn't want to be happy & work. Really just don't want to give up on it as it's one of the systems I really want to work on the truck for the sandy loam in my area.