M1165

[Maxjeep1]

Took a shower and got my second wind. Went and got 4.25 gallons of diesel and poured it in. Drain plug is not leaking and I hope it stays that way. Raining off and on today but I did manage to get my new fuel escutcheon on and it looks a lot better than the curly one that came off.

 

[Mullaney]

I took my new tire off of my M1165 and replaced with the bad tire from my M1123. I didn’t like changing them. I don’t like working on anything with a Jack under it. I had a Jack stand up by the frame where the a-arm attached but it wasn’t high enough for me to get the tire off. I didn’t see a good spot to put it on with the Jack in the way. I used floor Jack to raise the a-arm up enough to get the tire off. Good thing I had 2 floor jack’s. I was thinking about getting a spare but after changing them I think I would just call for help. Hahaha heavy azz tires! I got my drain plug installed in the fuel tank and I had plans to go get diesel and do more stuff. I was soaked from head to toe by the time I got done. I have Dustin from Feltz tire looking for me a set of tires and hopefully I will hear from him Monday.

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Cheapest solution for "the jackstand won't fit" where you want to put it is blocks of wood (also called cribbing). I got a half a pickup truck of scraps from a guy up the road who has a small saw mill. He sells lots of Oak cut into 12"x2"x20 feet long for trailer decking. I handed him a $20 and he was happy to be rid of the scrap... It might be worth having a few blocks of wood around to make certain that you don't get mashed.

I have a couple of blocks that are about 2 feet long and 12x12.
Really handy for climbing my Ferret @ the back end or to work on plugs or points.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I put 3 1/2 more gallons of diesel in it and that gives me 8 gallons. I cranked it over until I got new fuel to the filter. I removed the filter/separator and what a job. I don’t call that a serviceable item. I had to pull the drain hose off from the bottom and I didn’t think I could pull it off any other way. I hate that generator and I can’t wait to get rid of it. Finally I got it out thru the doghouse. Said it was changed 5/29/14.. I opened it up and it was clean but it had some stuff in the bottom. I cleaned it out and put new filter and strainer in. I will install after I get the alternator off. I’m not moving very fast and I should have been driving it by now.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I got the passenger side intake off and started cleaning it up. So far it’s the easiest thing ever. I hope driver side will be the same. I will probably clean whatever valley I can get to before I remove the other side. I just don’t want to get stuff in the intakes. I cut up a pool noodle and I think it works great and seals really nice.

 

[HoveringHMMWV]

I used one of these....



in the valley to clean up the rust before priming and painting. They can be found in different sizes to get into the nooks and crannies. I just used shop rags until removing the gasket material. Afterwards, I sealed up with painters tape during the rust removal and painting.
I do like the pool noodle idea!

 

[Maxjeep1]

I used one of these....

View attachment 876074

in the valley to clean up the rust before priming and painting. They can be found in different sizes to get into the nooks and crannies. I just used shop rags until removing the gasket material. Afterwards, I sealed up with painters tape during the rust removal and painting.
I do like the pool noodle idea!

Hahahaha my kid wasn’t too happy about the noodle idea…

 

[Maxjeep1]

I got my bolts cleaned up and I was able to get most of the paint off of the intake with an air nozzle. Finished it off with a little brake cleaner. It looks good. I ordered some fancy sockets and they should be here before 10pm. I was going to order one from blackdog but it was 64$ for one 5/8 socket and I couldn’t believe it but 30$ to ship it. I want to get everything cleaned as I go so I can just put it together and not have to worry about it.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I received my tools that Jake20 recommended and it made it a lot easier! I got all but one line loose at the pump and I removed the passenger side rear 2 lines. My lines were really tight and I can’t imagine that’s what it’s calling for. When/if I get done this will look good and if I ever sell it someone will see that work has been done. I just can’t put on rusty parts that look bad. Beauty of doing it yourself is that you have the time to make it look right. You send it to get fixed and you don’t get anything like that and if they were willing I couldn’t afford the labor. I think the death of my injection pump was water standing in the valley and not being able to drain because Melton plugs the drain! I will fix the drain and it won’t have the tube but it can drain out of the bellhousing

 

[SmartDrug]

Crummy that all of that would have been avoided with a functioning drain tube. Mine also has a plugged/clogged/smashed one.

What is your plan for the drain through the bellhousing? Have it drain on top of the torque converter?

 

[Mogman]

Crummy that all of that would have been avoided with a functioning drain tube. Mine also has a plugged/clogged/smashed one.

What is your plan for the drain through the bellhousing? Have it drain on top of the torque converter?

That is how all the civy Detroits do it, actually it would most likely just flow down the back of the block.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Crummy that all of that would have been avoided with a functioning drain tube. Mine also has a plugged/clogged/smashed one.

What is your plan for the drain through the bellhousing? Have it drain on top of the torque converter?

I don’t know where it will go but I think it will run down the back of the block and out of the weep hole in the torque converter cover. I just don’t want it sitting in the valley anymore.

 

[SmartDrug]

Post pics when you do it, I'm too chicken ### to take the lead on this one, but I'll duplicate whatever you come up with.

EDIT: I didn't realize that would get flagged - noted. Won't happen again, sorry.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Post pics when you do it, I'm too chicken shit to take the lead on this one, but I'll duplicate whatever you come up with.

I dug some stuff out around the hole and it was like jb weld or similar. When I get the pump out and valley clean I will be able to get a better look at it. I can feel lump of stuff where hole should be. I will get a drill bit in there or a Uni bit. I’m not worried about hurting the block and whatever they filled it with is softer than the block and shouldn’t be too hard to punch out. I ordered por15 for the valley so it should never rust and it should be a nice surface to get the water where it needs to go. I hope to get the passenger side lines off and cleaned up and start on the valley today… it’s so hot here that it slows me down to tortuga pace.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I dug some stuff out around the hole and it was like jb weld or similar. When I get the pump out and valley clean I will be able to get a better look at it. I can feel lump of stuff where hole should be. I will get a drill bit in there or a Uni bit. I’m not worried about hurting the block and whatever they filled it with is softer than the block and shouldn’t be too hard to punch out. I ordered por15 for the valley so it should never rust and it should be a nice surface to get the water where it needs to go. I hope to get the passenger side lines off and cleaned up and start on the valley today… it’s so hot here that it slows me down to tortuga pace.

As I’ve stated on several occasions, Melton rebuilds removed the drain tube and installed a rivet in the hole.
the concept of the drain is great, unfortunately it becomes clogged with the first leaf that ends up in the valley, you guys are killin yourselves over mostly nothing, the water will drain off the “FRONT” of the motor when it rains, not the rear because the turbo casting is to high. You don’t want to open up the hole unless you have the tube,you don’t want water draining onto the rear main seal, over time the area will rust and you will be pulling your transmission to replace it, plus the minor exposed crank area should be rusted up too. Ive got trucks that have had the same injection pump for 20yrs and no issue, Best bet is to drive your trucks, this burns the water off and just braking forces all the water out.
You can also park your truck in your drive way facing down hill or cover the engine with a tarp.
This is less of an issue on non-turbo, non late GEP and early motors like the 6.2, this because the rear area has no castings for the turbo.
If you have ever held the tube in your hands, you would see very quickly that the crushed area will clog at the radius and is at that point impossible to clear out if you get so much as some sand or small pebble in the tube…it’s a less than desirable solution, the radius is 90 deg to clear the flywheel.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I believe I found my timing marks on the pump and the housing… I know nothing about it but it doesn’t look right to me. It looks way too far to the passenger side… inquiring minds want to know.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I believe I found my timing marks on the pump and the housing… I know nothing about it but it doesn’t look right to me. It looks way too far to the passenger side… inquiring minds want to know.View attachment 876166

its correct, the new pump should have a mark as well.

 

[Maxjeep1]

its correct, the new pump should have a mark as well.

It didn’t look right to me. If truck was running and then needed a pump I would have trusted the marks. Thank you RWH.
When I install new pump I just need to worry about getting the dowel pin in and bolted up then line up the timing marks?

 

[Mogman]

I don't see a mark on the pump

 

[Mogman]

Have you read the TM on replacing the pump?

 

[Maxjeep1]

Have you read the TM on replacing the pump?

Yes and it was not a lot of information. Basically bolt it on and line up the marks