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Thanks Lane! No pic of my grinnin mug since I was all by myself, but trust me, it was huge!
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
M923A2 came home with me today!
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jasonjc
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Chris eastwood has the "C" clamp press for the door pin's I seen it in one of there catalogs.
Nice truck.
I mite need to trade off some of my little trucks and get me a big one.
Nice truck.
I mite need to trade off some of my little trucks and get me a big one.
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Ah-ha! You are right Jason. That's where I have seen it. I think I have the most recent catalogue at home. Thanks!
red devils dude
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nice pics chris ![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
I set out to get the tranny on only to find FLEET PRIDE
gave me the wrong damn pressure plate back
come monday there going to get a pice of
my mind
I set out to get the tranny on only to find FLEET PRIDEgave me the wrong damn pressure plate back
come monday there going to get a pice ofmy mind
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Chris, the weekend has passed and we've no updates. You surely have been working on it right? Is it ready for Aberdeen? Need some air to fill up the master cylinder?
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Another weekend has arrived and still no updates from the forum dictator. Whats the deal here Boss?
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He took it for a test drive, it's all downhill frome there. Now you wonder why I still scrape paint flakes off my 8x8.... 
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All right, here's the skinny. I was out of town all last weekend and didn't a chance to work on it. This weekend, my parents-in-law are here for a visit and to help us work on the house. So, I have been under strict orders not to fool around with the truck this weekend. I did in fact go to the farm to bring it back to my house. My bro-in-law, Aaron came with me to follow me back in my truck. We put the headlights in, put the horn button kit in and used the glad-hand to air the left front tire up (bad CTIS seal and broken valve stem). Then, I lumbered out to the main road in it and headed for the house. Everything seemed to be working fine so I got it up to about 50 mph. Pretty smooth running. We made it back to my house without problem, trimmed a few trees back to make it in the driveway and parked it on the concrete pad in my side yard. Sweet.
I did have a couple of issues. One is the valve stem, which I already knew about. Has anyone ever cut off the broken part of a vlalve stem and rethreaded the end for a short-term repair? It seems like it would work. The internal threads aren't crucial since it doesn't use a core with the CTIS in place. Thoughts?
The other issue is electrical in nature. I turned the 3-lever switch on to get my running lights, headlights and turn signals. The two headlights, the left front marker light and the two rear blackout lights came on. Weird right? When my bro-in-law tapped the brakes I got nothing. The left and right signal just gave a dim steady light, no blink. The flasher unit is new. I am thinking either the 3-lever switch is bad or a series of bad grounds or all of the above. Thoughts?
Pics to follow!
I did have a couple of issues. One is the valve stem, which I already knew about. Has anyone ever cut off the broken part of a vlalve stem and rethreaded the end for a short-term repair? It seems like it would work. The internal threads aren't crucial since it doesn't use a core with the CTIS in place. Thoughts?
The other issue is electrical in nature. I turned the 3-lever switch on to get my running lights, headlights and turn signals. The two headlights, the left front marker light and the two rear blackout lights came on. Weird right? When my bro-in-law tapped the brakes I got nothing. The left and right signal just gave a dim steady light, no blink. The flasher unit is new. I am thinking either the 3-lever switch is bad or a series of bad grounds or all of the above. Thoughts?
Pics to follow!
Elwenil
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Check the grounds, it sounds like the current is running back through other lamps to find it's way to ground.
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My bro-in-law and I looked at it yesterday. When I switched the turn signal all the way to the L or R, the turn lights would stay on steady front and rear. If I held it in a half-switched position, they blinked just fine. The truck looks to have taken a swim in salt water before. Maybe the turn switch is corroded? I'll try to take it apart and clean the contacts.
I'm also going to disconnect the rear harness to see if the front will work normally by itself. Then, I'm going to remove all grounds, clean contacts and put them back with di-electric grease.
We got the new 3-color camo top on last night. Man what a PITA that was to wrestle that thing into position. The biggest pain was getting the front clip into the track and the beads on the door pillars all the way in. The top was nice and warm inside, but it cooled off pretty quick outside so that didn't help
I also removed the left inner windshield to replace the glass. That was going smooth until I smapped the nut off of the wiper motor shaft trying to get the wiper blade off. Dang!! I Kroil'ed it, but it was so rusty, it twisted the shaft off.
I'm still having fun though
I'm also going to disconnect the rear harness to see if the front will work normally by itself. Then, I'm going to remove all grounds, clean contacts and put them back with di-electric grease.
We got the new 3-color camo top on last night. Man what a PITA that was to wrestle that thing into position. The biggest pain was getting the front clip into the track and the beads on the door pillars all the way in. The top was nice and warm inside, but it cooled off pretty quick outside so that didn't help
I also removed the left inner windshield to replace the glass. That was going smooth until I smapped the nut off of the wiper motor shaft trying to get the wiper blade off. Dang!! I Kroil'ed it, but it was so rusty, it twisted the shaft off.
I'm still having fun though
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A couple of pics after it made it home.
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rdixiemiller
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You can cut the valve stem off with a tubing cutter and re-thread it. Just need to determine the correct thread pitch. It should be made of brass, so it will cut smoothly.
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Chris:
Way to go that is a great truck. I wish the Army has rebuit them instead of going for the FMTV.
The fourway tire tool I have has a tap on it to retreat the stem these tools are available at tool stores
Way to go that is a great truck. I wish the Army has rebuit them instead of going for the FMTV.
The fourway tire tool I have has a tap on it to retreat the stem these tools are available at tool stores
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Thanks Robert and David. That was the confirmation I was looking for. I have seen the little tools with the tap, die, core wrench, etc... on them. I just wasn't sure if they would cut new threads or just clean up the old ones. I'll chop off the stem just behind the last thread with a Dremel tool and cut some new threads in it. I have a big tap and die set, but I'm not sure if it will have the correct size and pitch. I'll prolly just spring for the $5 4-way tool at NAPA.
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Turns out the Schrader valve is an odd-ball pitch and size. I'll just pick up the valve tool and give it a whirl.
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Well, it turns out that the 4-way tool is great for chasing threads, but not for cutting threads. That sucker was binding up bigtime even after I reduced the diameter of the stem a bit with the Dremel. I finally called it quits after about an hour of screwing around with it. Grrrr. I'll be looking for a new stem.
I did get the anti-sag bars installed under my soft top. I also got the VIN, etc... documented and will hopefully have everything ready to fax to GL tomorrow to get my SF-97.
I did get the anti-sag bars installed under my soft top. I also got the VIN, etc... documented and will hopefully have everything ready to fax to GL tomorrow to get my SF-97.
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Sorry Chris, did you use a drill to make the stem to the thead diameter I did not mention that but it is critical to getting a tap to cut correctly also tap oil assists in getting it right and turn and back. I feel responsible for setting you up on this. I have cut threads with them but the drill out was critical.
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It's really no big deal David. It's not like this was the last thing keeping me from driving it I did use the Dremel to reduce the diameter of the stem before trying to cut the threads. It started out great, but then went crooked on me. I had to cut it off and start again. The second time went even worse. Oh well. A new stem will be better anyways. It is critical to get a good seal since the CTIS system requires the stem to be used without a core. What I should have done was left a little of the original threads on there to get the die started in the right direction and then cut the rest of it off. Live and learn
I did use the Dremel to reduce the diameter of the stem before trying to cut the threads. It started out great, but then went crooked on me. I had to cut it off and start again. The second time went even worse. Oh well. A new stem will be better anyways. It is critical to get a good seal since the CTIS system requires the stem to be used without a core. What I should have done was left a little of the original threads on there to get the die started in the right direction and then cut the rest of it off. Live and learn
Elwenil
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It sounds as if one of you is speaking of the internal threads of the stem where the Schrader valve goes and the other is speaking of the outer threads like where the cap would go on a normal valve stem...
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Good point Lanty, it does seem that way. The internal threads were no big deal since the CTIS doesn't use the cores. I just needed some good threads on the outside where the wheel valve screws on. I found a new stem close to home so hopefully I'll get that done tomorrow. I think I'll have to disable the CTIS computer anyways since I don't think I'll have time to get the seals in the hub done before Aberdeen.