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M923A2 CTIS Problem
- Thread starter MarcM35A2
- Start date
If they're that low it'll save you at least 15 minutes of cussing waiting on the onboard compressor.
- 2,186
- 86
- 48
- Location
- Zimmerman MN
Don't where you got the idea you had to deflate...Push the bottom button only for a second or two as another noted
- 2,673
- 2,221
- 113
- Location
- Sunman Indiana
Can you post up a picture of the banjo bolt you are talking about?
I took off one of the inflation valves on one of the wheels with a leak and the valve is female compression. The adapter from the wheel that it attaches too is also female. Is there a male adapter that is supposed to be there? Don't see how it could seal otherwise.
- 1,200
- 457
- 83
- Location
- Spartanburg,SC
You need to post a picture of what you're talking about. Are you referring to the tube that comes out of the axle hub that the wheel valve slides over?
- 1,200
- 457
- 83
- Location
- Spartanburg,SC
So if it leaks at the compression nut, is it stripped and loose or does it tighten down? They strip VERY easily especially with an 1 1/8" wrench. If it isn't stripped, either the rubber seal inside is missing or worn out. I made new ones from 5/8" id heater hose.
- 2,673
- 2,221
- 113
- Location
- Sunman Indiana
Are you working on the front axle or one of the rears? Also what part of Indiana are you from?
- 2,673
- 2,221
- 113
- Location
- Sunman Indiana
Ok, now I'm with you. Wrong truck...
Evansville. Rear axle. I just don't get how it's supposed to seal with two flares of the same shape. Example- a brake line. A flare like that trying to seal to another flare exactly the same. I wish I could post a picture. The threads aren't stripped and the rubber is fine.
- 1,200
- 457
- 83
- Location
- Spartanburg,SC
The slight flare on the tube is only to keep the nut from slipping off, not a sealing surface. Some tubes actually don't have any flare at all on the end and seal just fine. The seal is accomplished when you tighten up the nut onto the wheel valve nipple (male threads) and the rubber seal inside is compressed against the OD of the tube coming out of the hub. Make sense?
It does. Thank you for clarifying that. Getting gear oil out of one of them also. Is there a place to get a seal kit? Sorry for all the questions. Been building vehicles for years but the CTIS system is very foreign to me. It appears like it is to most people.
Stellaevil
Active member
- 120
- 49
- 28
- Location
- Michigan
If the CTIS tire hose is not leaking and the tire bead is not leaking check these two places.
Remove the control port hose from the wheel valve and cover the port with your hand, no pressure should be building 2-minutes (if pressure is present the WV is problem) disassemble and clean inside parts.
There is an 'O ring between the two wheel halves that can leak and is crazy hard to find. You have to remove the wheel from the truck and soap the whole thing inside and out and the tire to make sure.
Remember: there is only pressure on the air seals and the control side "metal tube" when the CTIS is inflating or deflating so those areas of the system are not responsible for tires leaking down over time.
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brazengoat06
Member
- 362
- 2
- 16
- Location
- Tulsa, OK
ok so I have a m934a2 with 5 flashing lights the come on after normal air pressure is reached. the in cab unit will pressure check but not work. ive looked for leaks during the pressure check and can find none. Ive read through this but could use some additional thoughts. thanks
- 2,186
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- Zimmerman MN
Hold the bottom button down for a second or two. Should start airing up..