MV Addiction filled. Reis the Beast M1078A0 is born

[Mullaney]

thats crazy......

Maybe fore you go much further put a "run out gauge" (think that is proper term/tool) on the block and dial it to your crank end. slowly turn it and see if it turns w/out micro wobble? Or maybe just to check if the end of the crank is not milled funky.... that is such a weird perfect circle crack.

.
True. It looks more like some sort of casting mark.

 

[M1078MAN]

Here is a couple shots of confirmed leak, inside and outside, thats at the mounting bolt for the pump/steering pump


If they are casting marks..glad the new one doesnt look like that


Checked runout or wobble, crank checks out almost perfect, nominal results.. That case is headed to the scrap heap aka, metal pile, in the future I may play around with the tig and mill and see how well it welds/machines

 

[coachgeo]

.
True. It looks more like some sort of casting mark.

that is what I was thinking... like it cracked at the casting mark. you can also see at least one of the cracks radiating out inwardly of the circle though in which he mentioned.

 

[M1078MAN]

I am going to add the following..

ALL of this was preventable,
To start with the oil line of death failure, to the cracked case, to the never ending loose belts..

While I disassembled, I have found what I believe to be the root cause..

missing bolt in support bracket between compressor and steering pump to block (F157, I24), this allowed the assembly to vibrate, first breaking the oil line of death, then cracking the case. On the Alternator, the lower bolt (F100, I 41-43)was sheared off, and the alternator tab was resting on the bracket.

I am now done kicking myself in the ars, but want others to be informed/aware.. I highly recommend you check these two areas closely. All missing and broken hardware will be replaced with appropriate grade and application of appropriate Loctite.

Learn from my costly mistake..

She is going back together well.. and no surprises thus far

Rich

 

[coachgeo]

I am going to add the following..

ALL of this was preventable,
To start with the oil line of death failure, to the cracked case, to the never ending loose belts..

While I disassembled, I have found what I believe to be the root cause..

missing bolt in support bracket between compressor and steering pump to block (F157, I24), this allowed the assembly to vibrate, first breaking the oil line of death, then cracking the case. On the Alternator, the lower bolt (F100, I 41-43)was sheared off, and the alternator tab was resting on the bracket.

I am now done kicking myself in the ars, but want others to be informed/aware.. I highly recommend you check these two areas closely. All missing and broken hardware will be replaced with appropriate grade and application of appropriate Loctite.

Learn from my costly mistake..

She is going back together well.. and no surprises thus far

Rich

Thank YOU for the FUBARing for the rest of us... so we don't lol.

Oh wait... I take that back..... dang you ...... NOW we have No EXCUSES... we've been warned.... and provided with reality example. grrr

 

[M1078MAN]

\\MAIL CALL//

Ordered replacement throttle return springs..out arrived..inner will be here friday

Fig 36 item 27/28

 

[M1078MAN]

\\MAIL CALL//

Lots of goodies today

1 each F20 I 9 1R-0739 Oil filter
2 Sets of door handles...thanks to some references in "what have you done to your FMTV"
1 each inclinometer non OEM, another" what have you done"
2 each F36 I27 inner throttle springs (only need one, if someone needs one-let me know)
1 gallon AW32 10w PWR Steering Fluid
5 Gallons Green pre mix coolant-what I drained out specs good..so just adding 5 new gallons

 

[M1078MAN]

I got a surprise coming for the CTIS system from overseas.. should be here on the 18th. Looking forward to more control and flexibility from it

will report out on the results...

Making progress, rebuilt battery box, with 4/0 cable, terminal ends.. should be a marketable improvement. Also ran 4/0 from battery box to front grill for the 12000 warn

Humpty is going back together, valve train back in, oil/filter changed, power steering pump topped off..

Down to intercooler and radiator and coolant..hope to crank her up sunday

 

[M1078MAN]

RTB runs again, although I think I need to go back and adjust valves once more..

Other than that, 100%..

 

[M1078MAN]

The battery box is complete..all 4/0 gauge wire

 

[M1078MAN]

Aargh..

Tonight after a test driver, I developed a noise and smoke slight misfire, my thought about valve clearance is probably related to a stuck injector.. sounds like a hammering exhaust leak.

This video kind of covers the noise

looks like I need to pull the valve cover and look closely, hopefully its minor. frustrating, but not giving up

 

[M1078MAN]

\\MAIL CALL//

Picked up this 1/2inch 100ft 28k rope FROM NozAMa

Check this out on NozAMa
Synthetic Winch Rope, 1/2" x 100ft 28600LBS Winch Line with Protective Sleeve + Forged Winch Hook + Black Ribbon for 4WD Off Road Vehicle Truck SUV Jeep ATV UTV

KINKY LINKY

 

[M1078MAN]

Double MAIL CALL for today..

Received the magic box (CTIS Controller) from Italy. Work of art in my opinion, Thank you Chris "Plasa" is the man, cant wait to get it installed and tested.

Note: units are for testing only.. if you have questions, please contact Plasa at well you know

 

[Third From Texas]

Double MAIL CALL for today..

Received the magic box (CTIS Controller) from Italy. Work of art in my opinion, Thank you Chris "Plasa" is the man, cant wait to get it installed and tested.

Note: units are for testing only.. if you have questions, please contact Plasa at well you know

View attachment 882319

Yep, works awesome !

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

ok, I know what "it" is (a CTIS controller), but what makes it so special? and does it only work with LMTVs? Or also M35A3s?

 

[Mullaney]

ok, I know what "it" is (a CTIS controller), but what makes it so special? and does it only work with LMTVs? Or also M35A3s?

.
It isn't like the "spastic" controller that comes in the truck by default.
This one by @Plasa is programmable.

 

[coachgeo]

ok, I know what "it" is (a CTIS controller), but what makes it so special? and does it only work with LMTVs? Or also M35A3s?

home brewed by an Arduino enthusiast; member from here. Far as I know its only been tested on A0 and A1 FMTV's. If the OEM FMTV CTIS controller works fine on M35A3's would reason that this would also work on them..... but that is just a guess.

 

[flyfishtrailer]

I needed a new CTIS wheel valve and I found a kit that goes to another MV but the valve itself is exactly the same for the FMTV's. The rest of the kit I didn't need.

So, if you need a CTIS wheel valve here it is in this kit.

M939A2, 5 TON, CTIS REAR WHEEL VALVE KIT 57K3644, MILITARY TRUCK | eBay

57K3644 M939A2 REAR WHEEL CTIS VALVE.

www.ebay.com

Doing some searching of my own, found that kit for $58

CTIS Wheel Valve Kit Rear Wheel M923A2 M939A2 5 Ton Military Trucks 57K3644 (gtruewaste.com)

 

[chucky]

Yep, works awesome !

View attachment 882341

Here's a great idea ! How about you send that CTIS controller up to me and see if makes my ctis go to working then i send it back to you ! And maybe that levatronmaticleveloleanometer as well for testing in a 6x6

 

[Third From Texas]

ok, I know what "it" is (a CTIS controller), but what makes it so special? and does it only work with LMTVs? Or also M35A3s?

Yeah, CTIS controller for LMTV. As it sits, it should work with any truck that uses the same Spicer controller as the LMTV. So if the M35's controller is interchangeable, so to would be this. Beyond that, you'd have to ask Plasa.

What makes it special is that it does everything that the OEM controller does and more. It has the same four modes but YOU can program the desired psi for each mode (ie: I run my Goodyears at 80psi in HYW). It's simple to program, too (open the lid, move the little jumper pin to the "settings" position, select the mode, select the psi, save and return the jumper to the "saved" position). It can also be updated with new software as Plasa makes any programming changes/improvements. It's built on the Aruino Nano platform (which is a tried and true time-tested little open-source project computer with a ton of support online).

The OEM controllers seem to fail at very low hours. Mine died before my A1R truck hit 10k miles (it was like new). NOS replacement can be pretty expensive (because supply/demand, junk yard costs, yada-yada,) and often get scalped for twice what Plasa sells this unit for. I knew I wasn't replacing my OEM for those reasons so it was a matter of sourcing the parts and a housing and building a manual controller...or purchasing this from Plasa (plug--n-play).

I still want to do a proper review but the last two times I was on the sand it was hard packed and no real reason to air down for pics.