MY Airpack Rebuild with Photos!

[Heavysteven]

You'll need a feelr gauge .015 and .020. The directions are simple to adjust the brake but still took me a while to learn. In fact I had to walk away from the first drum I did after a couple hours. Came back the next day got the gaps right and did the rest.

Directions if any one else interested.


TM 9-2320-361-24-1 SERVICE BRAKE ADJUSTMENT (Contd)
NOTE
• The adjustment procedure for front and rear brakes is done the same way.
• This procedure covers the front brakes. Allow brakes to cool before adjusting.
SERVICE BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
1. Remove nut (1), lockwasher (2), and inspection slot cover (3) from brakedrum (4). Discard lockwasher (2).
2. Turn brakedrum (4) to position inspection slot (5) at 8 o’clock location.
3. Loosen jamnut ( on anchor pin (9) one full turn.
0168 00
4. Turn anchor pin (9) clockwise or counterclockwise until gap between brakeshoe lining (13) and inner brakedrum surface (12) measures 0.010 in. (0.25 mm). Tighten jamnut ( on anchor pin (9) 80–110 lb-ft (109–149 N•m).
5. Turn brakedrum (4) to position inspection slot (5) at 11 o’clock location.
6. Turn cam stud (7) clockwise until gap between brakeshoe lining (13) and inner brakedrum surface (12) measures 0.020 in. (0.50 mm).
7. Turn brakedrum (4) to position inspection slot (5) at 5 o’clock location.
8. Loosen jamnut (10) on anchor pin (11) one full turn.
9. Turn anchor pin (11) clockwise or counterclockwise until gap between brakeshoe lining (13) and inner brakedrum surface (12) measures 0.010 in. (.25 mm). Tighten jamnut (10) on anchor pin (11) 80–110 lb-ft (109–149 N•m).
10. Turn brakedrum (4) to position inspection slot (5) at 1 o’clock location.
11. Turn cam stud (6) counterclockwise until gap between brakeshoe lining (13) and inner brakedrum surface (12) measures .020 in. (.50 mm).
12. Install inspection slot cover (3) on brakedrum (4) with new lockwasher (2) and nut (1).
13. Turn brakedrum (4) by hand and turn cam stud (6) counterclockwise until brakedrum (4) drags. Loosen cam stud (6) until brakedrum (4) slightly drags.
14. Turn brakedrum (4) by hand and turn cam stud (7) clockwise until brakedrum (4) drags. Loosen cam stud (7) until brakedrum (4) slightly drags.
15. Perform steps 1 through 14 to do service adjustment of other wheel on axle.
16. Install front or rear wheels (WP 0186 00).
17. Connect battery ground cable (WP 0126 00).
18. Release parking brake and remove wheel chocks (TM 9-2320-361-10).

TM 9-2320-361-24-1 SERVICE BRAKE ADJUSTMENT (Contd)
http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TM9-2320-361-24-1.pdf

There are more economical source on the web for DOT 5, I would do a google search. I go to NAPA for fluids, belts, and grease that's about it.

 

[monkster]

Hows the best way to save this. I seen a lot of posts I like but not savoy enough to save.

 

[DeucesWild11]

So now that The rears aren't dragging I am loosing some pressure in the brake pedal. Let's say I am coming to a stop sign and have by foot on the brake while downshifting.. The brake pedal very slowly goes down to the floor. It also takes some time before coming all the way back up. From what I have heard that's the Master Cylinder.. Now that I rebuilt the airpack I heard the MC is allot easier.. I suppose I am in for that rebuild now. Your thoughts?

 

[Heavysteven]

The spring on the pedal still there? I ask because mine broke once.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Yeah it springs back all the way back up but if I press down then it goes back down to just above where it was.. with a little time it comes back up.. This eve, I drove it around then backed down the driveway toward the bottom I was out of pedal and out of brakes... Threw it into 2nd to slow it down to a stop before I hit my "new to me" M105A2. I am planning on rebuilding the M/C now unless I get other better direction...

 

[jets1959]

Not to be picking on you, but have you bleed the brakes since the rebuild on the air pack and the brake adjustments? Also check to see if you have any leaks that may have started after you put clean fluid in the system. There is a thread on a neat bleeder you can make to do it yourself. I would try cheap things before you rebuild anything else. Hope all goes well.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Thanks Dwayne, I did do a full bleed, Actually just posted my new problem on a different thread as I wasn't getting too much on this one. I did have a small leak on the airpack which helped the pedal come back up quicker but as I hold down the pedal it sinks slowly to the floor. No visible leaks anywhere so most likely an internal issue with the M/C and seeing how bad the airpack was I would not be surprised.
Thank you for your help.

 

[jets1959]

No problem just trying to help. The small leak in the airpack may have caused air to get back in the system try bleeding again. Also look at the back and lower part on each drum for fluid. sometimes the wheel cylinders start leaking after new fluid is in the system.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Good idea, thanks for that, I'll try re-bleeding first. The wheel drums are clean, no drips there..

 

[jets1959]

Glad all the drums are dry. You do very good work excellent thread. Will now move to your new thread. Let me know there if this fixes your problem or you need to rebuild your MC. Thanks, Dwayne

 

[reloader64]

Well, I finally got around to pulling my airpack off and rebuilding it. It looks like some of the internal seals were leaking, judging by the amount of contamination inside. I have a couple of questions.

1: The large piston seems to be a 2-piece affair. How did you get the pieces separated?
2: On the medium sized brass piston, one of the seals was felt. I don't see a replacement felt piece in the kit, but I do have an extra rubber cup, although I don't think it will fit around the piston.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Scott

 

[DeucesWild11]

Scott, on mine the piston push rod had a slit at the top of it. I was able to hold that with a screwdriver and turn the nut and it came off. You could also put the pushrod (Not piston itself) in a vice with "soft jaws" as to not scratch the rod. If you don't have soft jaws I used in the past two pieces of wood on either side against the vice to protect the rod.. You don't want to get any scratches on the rod. If you do you can get light ones out with some fine steel wool.

#2 there should be two pieces of felt in your rebuild kit, a long one for the large piston and a smaller one for the well smaller one. Perhaps they are connected together slightly in your kit an just look like one?

You shouldn't have any extra pieces. I thought I had some but in the end used everything on the rebuild. Sometimes they are hard to find.

 

[reloader64]

OK, I found the seals I didn't pull out the first time, so I don't have spare parts anymore. However, I am still having trouble with the large aluminum piston. I got the rod out easily, but the piston itself appears to be a 2 piece affair, with the rubber seal sandwiched in between. I am so far unable to separate the 2 pieces, so as to replace the seal.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Wow that's weird, mine just pulled apart easily. Not sure how you can pull apart without damaging anything.. Sorry for the late reply, I have been traveling for work.. Perhaps give it a tap around the edges with a rubber mallet? Probably just some gunk in there holding it all together.

 

[reloader64]

As it turns out, a wooden wedge and about 2 taps with a hammer will separate the 2 halves of the piston. Replaced the seal, reassembled the airpack, and finally got it in the truck last night. Today after work, I bled the brakes, and took it out for a test drive. WOO-HOO! Brakes work great, and no more brake fluid puking out of the airpack vent. Thanks again for all the pictures and advice. I have to find out why my brake lights don't work, then I'll be ready to drive to the air show this weekend.

Scott

 

[Lonesome715]

Great thread!

 

[silverstate55]

AWESOME, had to subscribe to this one! Thanks DW11, your painstaking care to take quality photos & detailed instructions are very much appreciated!! Great job, thank you very much!

 

[silverstate55]

Hows the best way to save this. I seen a lot of posts I like but not savoy enough to save.

At the top of the thread, click on "Thread Tools;" a drop-down menu should appear, then click on "Subscribe To This Thread."

 

[tuckered]

What was the original problem that led to the diagnosis that the airpacks needed to rebuild?

I love this whole thing about people, some without any training whatsoever, are dedicated and inquisitive enough to solve some very complicated issues, and on many occasions, very serious stuff. Way to keep our minds working! Great post! You can learn more here than any AIT would teach you.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Thanks guys, the original problem for me was my brakes were locking up. Not all the time but on my original recovery I heated them up pretty well. Then I also noticed fluid coming out of the "slobber tube" next to the engine so some fluid was getting past a seal somewhere internally.

So I rebuilt the Airpack, that made a big difference but then was loosing some pressure in my pedal and continued to have fluid coming out the slobber tube. So that led me to my Master Cylinder rebuild. I also posted that one with Pics but not as much to show and allot less complicated rebuild. Now I have firm brakes and the truck stops very well and my brakes are not locking up.

Good luck with your rebuilds!!