• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

My cucv lift

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
I got my double bead locks i need to order tires and the new centers so it has the correct back spacing. ill get pictures tomorrow
 

D8dave

New member
124
2
0
Location
Baldwinsville, NY 13027
If you like your fuel mileage you better leave that 6.2 in that truck alone !! That 454 you will get about 8mpg if your lucky i owned alot of big blocks in my and they suck alot of gas. Ilike the 205 ideabut if this truck is just a toy i see why you don't care about mpg's . Dave
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
So I wont start a new thread ill just use this one. When i went to Yosemite i hurt my T case so I am going to rebuild my 205 and install the 32 spline input so i can install with the Th400 and new drive shafts. ill take pics of the 205 rebuild soon.
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
3
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
With what it sounds like you play with the truck alot you should consider twin sticking the 205 makes a much better truck off road if you really use it ! have done several and the guys love them after they really use it. they are not sure at first. [thumbzup]
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
That's part of the plan :) my friend can machine the shift rails for me so I don't have to buy new ones. Just not sure if I am going to buy new shifters or just get another stock one and build my own. Since I have a spare rear drive shaft ill install my 205 and measure for the rear drive shaft lenght and then put back in the 208 so. I can drive the truck while the drive shaft is being made.
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
3
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
Not a big deal to modifie the two shift rails just a small 4'' grinder works great and I make my own shifters also the only thing I buy is the boot I use a stock toyota boot works great and is the cheapest Iv found check out East Coast gear suply for them here is a link for there boot.
Toyota Twin Stick Boot makes for a great off road transfer!!!!
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
So I tore out the NP208. my mounts where trash the t case was banging on the floor of the cab. I put in new mounts and the NP241. if anyone does this swap keep the stock cross member you have more ground clearance with it than the not stock one. Everything bolted in and works great. ill post pics as soon as i get them.
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
No its WFO its their cross over arms and drag link and ends. Stock steering box re built and tapped for hydro assist.
 
Last edited:

Disciple

New member
247
4
0
Location
Eagan, Mn
Great looking truck, nice build. From your best guess what would you say is the minimum lift needed to shoe-horn in a set of the 37" radial HMMWV tires and bead-locks on a 1008? I'm considering a 4" ORD HD kit with shackle flip rear, crossover steering, ditch the swaybar, and I'm not too worried about hacking up the fenders. I don't plan on real hard off-road use. Don't see myself getting (intentionally) into a situation where I'd need as much flex and travel as your forklift pic. Think it will work or am I being optimistic with the tire size?

My reasoning here is that I use the truck for work (I'm a mason). I often load really heavy cr@p in and out of the back and I want to keep the bed as close to a reasonable height as possible while still getting the rpm advantages of taller tires and the few extra inches of ground clearance wouldn't hurt either for those muddy jobsites and the occasional weekend trip to run some trails.
 
Last edited:

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
I figured I might add this in to my thread for people who have asked more info about the 241 swap. For this swap you need a 241 from either an 89 or 90 3/4 ton suburban since the 3/4 ton had a turbo 400 32 spline in put. the 700r4 241's need the input swapped. Also they are the only ones that have the correct speedo adapter that works for our truck. The stock 208 adapter bolts right up to the 241 so you don't need to change the adapter and the cross member works also but i would change the t case mounts the anchor numbers are 2108 and 2107 you need two of each. The drive shafts bolt right in. If you use a well built 700r4 the blazer 241 will work also but you might adapt the speedo from vss. Also you might to shorten the rear drive shaft and lengthen the front and Since the 700 might be longer than a 400 since it has an extra gear.
 
Last edited:

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
Great looking truck, nice build. From your best guess what would you say is the minimum lift needed to shoe-horn in a set of the 37" radial HMMWV tires and bead-locks on a 1008? I'm considering a 4" ORD HD kit with shackle flip rear, crossover steering, ditch the swaybar, and I'm not too worried about hacking up the fenders. I don't plan on real hard off-road use. Don't see myself getting (intentionally) into a situation where I'd need as much flex and travel as your forklift pic. Think it will work or am I being optimistic with the tire size?

My reasoning here is that I use the truck for work (I'm a mason). I often load really heavy cr@p in and out of the back and I want to keep the bed as close to a reasonable height as possible while still getting the rpm advantages of taller tires and the few extra inches of ground clearance wouldn't hurt either for those muddy jobsites and the occasional weekend trip to run some trails.
Disciple you can get 37's top fit with some trimming and a 4 will keep the bed at a reasonable height. when you run 37's it will help with your speed on the freeway but they do make getting up to speed a little longer. if you keep the stock spring and dont take any of the leafs out the truck will be very stiff but still have the load capacity. I would do a shackle flip to keep away from blocks.
 

TCUCV

New member
213
0
0
Location
Chocowinity, NC
****, that looks like a job right there . . . is that a "turned up" injection pump?

So how hard was it replacing? From your pictures it looks as though it wasn't to incredibly difficult to figure out. Thanks for posting the photos through the task :beer:
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,802
51
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
No its a stock ip I am going to see how it drives. If it need's it ill turn up the pump. It was not hard to repalce the TM was the best source for it. Just time consuming. I killed my starter bleeding the pump so I had to swap that out also.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks