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New LMTV owner

mccullek

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Oxford MS
glad it worked for you. I did total rebuild on the hydraulic pump and still can not get it to work. Kicker is it worked before i took it apart. How are you bleeding the air out?
Just pump it up for a bit, then turn all four manifold valves in every direction a few times, then I removed the refill cap on the pump. Careful though, open it slowly, as the pressure may cause the fluid to come blowing out. I had to do that 3 or 4 times before mine started moving things properly.

Note that this may not be the best or even the correct way, it is just how I did it because I didn't know any other way.
 

GeneralDisorder

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Portland, OR
As mentioned - I rebuilt my pump and just operated it and the hand pump while rotating all the knobs to various settings and eventually it started working normally. My pump prior to the rebuild would work for a few cycles and then it would blow off it's internal relief valve and stop pumping - the seals inside had disintegrated and bits of them were clogging up the pump and creating issues. After swapping the cup, and the large flat washer-like seal on the big spring/piston assembly and a few other o-rings that were included with the kit I have no more issues. Pump was like new inside other than the seals falling apart.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
Had storms this morning so not a lot of time to work on the truck but i replaced the glad hand seals tonight which allows me to keep the dummy covers on thus keeping dirt out and not having those swinging around going down the road. I went to figure out the lights again. pulled K8 relay and it was a 4 prong instead of 5 prong. changed out and then i had low beams but no high beams. So i was messing with the light switch tonight and when i switched to parking lights head lights turned off and will not turn back on not even after turning all the switches back off and on. Also my dash lights have never come on dimmer switch moved both ways.
 

coachgeo

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Location
North of Cincy OH
Had storms this morning so not a lot of time to work on the truck but i replaced the glad hand seals tonight which allows me to keep the dummy covers on thus keeping dirt out and not having those swinging around going down the road. I went to figure out the lights again. pulled K8 relay and it was a 4 prong instead of 5 prong. changed out and then i had low beams but no high beams. So i was messing with the light switch tonight and when i switched to parking lights head lights turned off and will not turn back on not even after turning all the switches back off and on. Also my dash lights have never come on dimmer switch moved both ways.
one step forward..... half step back...... could be worse
 

Mullaney

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Charlotte NC
Had storms this morning so not a lot of time to work on the truck but i replaced the glad hand seals tonight which allows me to keep the dummy covers on thus keeping dirt out and not having those swinging around going down the road. I went to figure out the lights again. pulled K8 relay and it was a 4 prong instead of 5 prong. changed out and then i had low beams but no high beams. So i was messing with the light switch tonight and when i switched to parking lights head lights turned off and will not turn back on not even after turning all the switches back off and on. Also my dash lights have never come on dimmer switch moved both ways.
.
It might be worth your time to disconnect the batteries, then clean the board that all the relays plug in to. Electrical contact cleaner, then a spot of Anti-Ox paste on every contact. An old toothbrush on the connectors after spraying the board. Also clean the contacts on the relays too. Whatever you do, do it one at the time. It makes you clean a little harder and makes it harder to put the wrong part back into the board.

Already said it once - but PLEASE be sure to disconnect the batteries before you start this project!
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
I am going to take Mullaney's sugestion so waiting on some deoxit to come in the mail as it is not sold locally and not real confident in just using contact cleaner. So did some more work tonight after the funky weather passed. pumped the cab up by hand and changed the wiper blades, painted the wiper arms while i was there. While i was looking for more things to spray black just noticed for the first time tonight that 1 rim was tan the rest were black. so had to paint that and touch up the other wheels and then serviced the air dryer. had to take the cap off twice as it did not seal the first time, but good to go on round two. Small things but it is something. As i was looking at the bottom of the truck i noticed the bump stops on the front of the truck are gone back ones look fine so i will be looking those up to replace.
 

INFChief

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722
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Location
New York
I am going to take Mullaney's sugestion so waiting on some deoxit to come in the mail as it is not sold locally and not real confident in just using contact cleaner. So did some more work tonight after the funky weather passed. pumped the cab up by hand and changed the wiper blades, painted the wiper arms while i was there. While i was looking for more things to spray black just noticed for the first time tonight that 1 rim was tan the rest were black. so had to paint that and touch up the other wheels and then serviced the air dryer. had to take the cap off twice as it did not seal the first time, but good to go on round two. Small things but it is something. As i was looking at the bottom of the truck i noticed the bump stops on the front of the truck are gone back ones look fine so i will be looking those up to replace.
I go through black paint quick!
 

Mullaney

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Had storms this morning so not a lot of time to work on the truck but i replaced the glad hand seals tonight which allows me to keep the dummy covers on thus keeping dirt out and not having those swinging around going down the road. I went to figure out the lights again. pulled K8 relay and it was a 4 prong instead of 5 prong. changed out and then i had low beams but no high beams. So i was messing with the light switch tonight and when i switched to parking lights head lights turned off and will not turn back on not even after turning all the switches back off and on. Also my dash lights have never come on dimmer switch moved both ways.
.
One other thing worth knowing:. I happened into the fire cabinet where all my spray cleaners are stored this weekend.

There is a spray called Deoxit that cleans and helps contacts like "the relay to the board" connection. It does amazing things...
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
So still waiting for that fall weather, but gotta keep going on the truck. Yesterday loaded up the cardboard and plastic recycling and took it 5 miles down the road to the drop off bins. Today I got the Deoxit in the mail so i will work on the fuse panel this week. I also received my new mirrors for the truck. the drivers side arm was pretty bent up so with all my weight pulling down i finally got it close to looking normal and installed the new mirrors. they are green and the truck is tan, but i do not think i will paint them. i kinda like the two tone look the truck has going.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
As an afterthought here, you could probably email someone at Parker and find out the correct sizes of the backup rings as well if you needed those. Their purpose is to keep the high pressures from distorting the o-rings into a position where they might fail, so the backup rings don't really wear out I don't think. If they are still in place, you should not need new ones. I just reused those and only replaced the O-rings and that has worked well for me.

If anyone does need those backup rings though, contact Parker and see if someone could help you with them. They would be the ones that come with the rebuild kit. I can't remember that rebuild kit number, but you can look it up in the TM manual.

If you were to find the correct sizes, maybe post those back here for future reference. No one should have to pay $400 for $20 worth of O-rings and backup rings.
Parker will not release the size of those backer rings. My local store contacted corporate and he was told they would only sell them as part of the kit and would not even give a part number. Great business practices
 

INFChief

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Location
New York
I need the O-rings and backup rings for the knobs on the manifold. There is a kit SK10-4, but it does not give the size of the o-rings. It only gives you a kit number that is $100 per valve, and I need to rebuild all 4, so I was hoping someone might know the sizes of them.

A previous post describes how FarmKubota researched the sizes and ordered the stuff for all 4 for around $40, but he doesn't post the sizes. I messaged him directly, but no reply yet. Hoping he is still around and has these o-ring sizes. I just can't see why 3 o-rings and 6 backup rings should cost $100. I know people are in business to make money, but $400 for a few O-rings is not in my budget. See kit 14 & 16, as that is what I'm trying to match.

View attachment 872354
What’s the NSN & P/N for you manifold? I wonder if SPX makes a kit?
 

INFChief

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722
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93
Location
New York
So still waiting for that fall weather, but gotta keep going on the truck. Yesterday loaded up the cardboard and plastic recycling and took it 5 miles down the road to the drop off bins. Today I got the Deoxit in the mail so i will work on the fuse panel this week. I also received my new mirrors for the truck. the drivers side arm was pretty bent up so with all my weight pulling down i finally got it close to looking normal and installed the new mirrors. they are green and the truck is tan, but i do not think i will paint them. i kinda like the two tone look the truck has going.
Will you need to remove the connections to apply the DEOXIT or will it seep down in between the connections?
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
What’s the NSN & P/N for you manifold? I wonder if SPX makes a kit?
i do not need the backer rings anymore as i have a new manifold coming. My old backer rings worked and the orings sealed the leaks but i just have too much wear in my valves and have taken them apart for the last time. found a really good deal on the manifold so its a no brainer for me to have piece of mind.
 

BERZERKER888

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Daytona, FL
I need the O-rings and backup rings for the knobs on the manifold. There is a kit SK10-4, but it does not give the size of the o-rings. It only gives you a kit number that is $100 per valve, and I need to rebuild all 4, so I was hoping someone might know the sizes of them.

A previous post describes how FarmKubota researched the sizes and ordered the stuff for all 4 for around $40, but he doesn't post the sizes. I messaged him directly, but no reply yet. Hoping he is still around and has these o-ring sizes. I just can't see why 3 o-rings and 6 backup rings should cost $100. I know people are in business to make money, but $400 for a few O-rings is not in my budget. See kit 14 & 16, as that is what I'm trying to match.

View attachment 872354
I used the HF Blue o ring kit …. Rebuilt all 4 valves… zero issues
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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Wapakoneta, Ohio
So 5 minutes worth of work tonight after i had an aha moment. Although i have a new manifold it did not come with knobs. i was unable to get the knobs off the old valves. No set screws just rusted on. pulled so hard i broke the pin holding the round part inside the knob on the shaft of all but 1. Tonight i went out and realized the knobs do not have threads so all i had to do what put the screw back in the top and hit it with a hammer and they came right now. now all i need are set screws to allow the valves to turn since the new ones are not round but hexagon in shape
 
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