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"factory" is the idea.
Looks good and it almost appears to be "factory".
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"factory" is the idea.
Looks good and it almost appears to be "factory".
We’re you able to use the original serial number? I have yet to take up the fight again here myself but this week, that on the list to get done. The DMV has told me on more than one occasion there needs to be a different number.So it is official. i now have an Ohio Title and overpriced Commercial license plates, but the truck is legal
Yes i used the original serial numberWe’re you able to use the original serial number? I have yet to take up the fight again here myself but this week, that on the list to get done. The DMV has told me on more than one occasion there needs to be a different number.
.We’re you able to use the original serial number? I have yet to take up the fight again here myself but this week, that on the list to get done. The DMV has told me on more than one occasion there needs to be a different number.
In NYS, they simply added zeroes to my Serial # to be able to fill the data requirement.We’re you able to use the original serial number? I have yet to take up the fight again here myself but this week, that on the list to get done. The DMV has told me on more than one occasion there needs to be a different number.
Does anyone know the size of the O-rings and the backup rings, as I want to rebuild all 4 of my valves? The kit is like $98.00 for one valve, so $400 to rebuild all 4. I just can't see paying that for some o-rings. There has to be a way to figure out the sizes and order them directly as farming suggests here. I tried both my SAE and Metric O-ring kit, but the O-rings are too thick. They don't leave enough room to get the backup rings on properly. Anyone that knows the sizes, or even where I can get a reasonably priced kit, please let me know.not to much to report. I cant work on anything else until i have all the air/hydraulic leaks fixed. I ordered the rebuild kit for the air/hydraulic pump, the manifold i thought i had fixed is leaking like crazy so i set out on a rabbit hole to get the right parts to rebuild all of the valves. MME has a 78 dollar kit for just 1 valve and that was not going to work. TM says sk10-4 rebuild kit which is a Parker kit, 201 business days to get one as none exist in the country. found a tech manual on Parkers website that gave me the oring sizes, so went to the Parker store got the orings for all 4 valves $7.75 but no back-up rings. Parker will not sell them separate only in the kit but i got the part numbers so orings.com i think i have what i need coming. crossing my fingers i have all the parts, and a spare set for about $40 total.
Which part item #’s?Does anyone know the size of the O-rings and the backup rings, as I want to rebuild all 4 of my valves? The kit is like $98.00 for one valve, so $400 to rebuild all 4. I just can't see paying that for some o-rings. There has to be a way to figure out the sizes and order them directly as farming suggests here. I tried both my SAE and Metric O-ring kit, but the O-rings are too thick. They don't leave enough room to get the backup rings on properly. Anyone that knows the sizes, or even where I can get a reasonably priced kit, please let me know.
Thanks for posting this. I was able to find the PDF with these same numbers by digging a bit more, and I already placed an order from Allegheny York. A total of $65.00 including the backup rings. I guessed at those a bit, and they were the most expensive part. Without the backup rings, it was probably around $10 for the o-rings for all 4 valves. And they want $100 at the usual sites for one valve kit. I understand people need to make money, but a 4,000 percent markup is ridiculous.Here are the Oring part numbers, the backer rings ended up being to thick, but the old ones should be ok.
View attachment 872365
But...but....And they want $100 at the usual sites for one valve kit.
.Tiny bit of progress tonight. Its been hot and I have been working on Generators too much lately, but i was able to wire up the new license plate lights, put a packard connector on and hooked up to the extra lead on the driver side taillight and works fine. final paint and bolted down. something silly but as i was digging through all the parts I had been collecting and putting them away found the cover for the door handle latch. Still no latch on the passenger side, but one day will get it done. If it cools down i will take the hydraulic pump apart again as i have a new oring for the out side cylinder housing, but its just too hot and humid with biting flies right now. Told the Wife this may lead to whole new shop with air conditioning or at least one of those 6 foot tall fans to cool off and keep the flies away.
Last weekend, I used the $5 O-rings we cross referenced and I rebuilt my manifold valves. That got the hand pump to easily raise and lower the cab and spare tire.I took the title option from Gov planet so it was a Florida title, but not really sure it matters. You will need to have an inspection done, and hopefully get the right person at the BMV. Because of weight it will have to have commercial plates
As an afterthought here, you could probably email someone at Parker and find out the correct sizes of the backup rings as well if you needed those. Their purpose is to keep the high pressures from distorting the o-rings into a position where they might fail, so the backup rings don't really wear out I don't think. If they are still in place, you should not need new ones. I just reused those and only replaced the O-rings and that has worked well for me.Great info thanks!
glad it worked for you. I did total rebuild on the hydraulic pump and still can not get it to work. Kicker is it worked before i took it apart. How are you bleeding the air out?Last weekend, I used the $5 O-rings we cross referenced and I rebuilt my manifold valves. That got the hand pump to easily raise and lower the cab and spare tire.
This weekend I used one of the rebuild kits on the Hydraulic pump and rebuilt that as well. As with most everyone that has done this, the small reddish seal on the piston was in multiple pieces, so it was not allowing any pressure to build. Once I changed out that seal and the other O-rings and put it back together, I can now raise and lower the cab and spare tire without using the hand pump.
I did have to bleed the air out a couple of times before it worked properly, but it's not that difficult of a job as long as you use a c-clamp to hold the pump together when removing the 4 screws. That spring has some pressure on it, so be sure you watch some of the YouTube videos where they go over how to use a clamp to keep that from flying apart when you remove the screws, as that worked like a champ for me.
Don't pay $100 for one of the O-ring kits to rebuild a single valve on the manifold. Use the numbers posted above in this thread and order them from Allegheny York for less than $5 for all of them. You can reuse the original backup rings if they are still in place. Just change out the O-rings.
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