New M-1083 owner. So, here we go!!

[RRaulston]

"3) spent 3 hours trying to get the leaf springs to take grease... Thats all I'm gonna say about that..."

Getting grease into your leaf springs/grease zerks.

front right suspension: front grease zerks drives me crazy - SOLVED

Hello forum. I'm fighting with the front right suspension, the front grease zerks is not taking any grease. What I did: - change the grease zerks to a flat one to be able to put grease gun (?) - use heat gun to warm up old grease - use of bottle jack to reduce weight on suspension nothing...

www.steelsoldiers.com

[/QUOTE]
ordered. I got all of them except for one. The one behind the fuel tank. Most of them I removed the fitting, cleaned out the hole, spray wd-40, clean out the hole, jack the spring, rotate the pin and they took grease. It was beyond painfull.....

 

[RRaulston]

Well what a day! I changed out the air governor and that did nothing. It was only $17 for a Haldex. Freaking still leaks. OMG.... I even went to CAT and got new O-Rings and it still leaks! I'm not a fan of launching the parts cannon at things as I enjoy troubleshooting and fixing stuff, but this?!! So over it. Will do the upgrade as soon as the drivelines are all done. Let's talk CTIS. I THINK it works?! So, in my last video you can hear the wailing donkey sound. Well, I think it was discharging as I had the tires at 85psi. It seemed to discharge in pulses. I don't know how they actually operate, but when the donkey finally stopped, I was at 62psi. no more sound. When I pushed XC, the donkey came back, and I went down to 35. I hit HWY again and back up to 62psi. God, that took a minute for all 6 but I could watch the gauge I installed go down to 80 then back up to 125 a BUNCH of times then steady HWY light. In hot a$$ AZ, we can't be running our tires low. I need the CTIS to do 80-85 psi on the HWY setting.....

 

[GeneralDisorder]

You can program the CTIS to whatever HWY pressure you want or have it done by a member of the forum. I set mine to 85 psi. You just need a J1939 adapter and a laptop - the Dana diagnostic software is free on their web site.

 

[Ronmar]

I believe Superman can reprogram them.

The dump valves are noisy, kind of a higher pitched woosh as they dump air. Do they all sound the same? The front axle valve is on the passenger side of the transmission inside the frame rail, the rear axle valves are back over the axles.

Yes it dumps in pulses as it drops the PCU manifild to 6-7 psi to allow the dump valves(remote pressure regulators) to dump tire air. It has to stop from time to time toet the system get to tire pressure so it can check pressure at the PCU where the sensor is located...

Cool, but i bet you still have leaks(they all leak)...

 

[coachgeo]

Well what a day! I changed out the air governor and that did nothing. It was only $17 for a Haldex. Freaking still leaks. OMG.... I even went to CAT and got new O-Rings and it still leaks! I'm not a fan of launching the parts cannon at things as I enjoy troubleshooting and fixing stuff, but this?!! So over it. Will do the upgrade as soon as the drivelines are all done. Let's talk CTIS. I THINK it works?! So, in my last video you can hear the wailing donkey sound. Well, I think it was discharging as I had the tires at 85psi. It seemed to discharge in pulses. I don't know how they actually operate, but when the donkey finally stopped, I was at 62psi. no more sound. When I pushed XC, the donkey came back, and I went down to 35. I hit HWY again and back up to 62psi. God, that took a minute for all 6 but I could watch the gauge I installed go down to 80 then back up to 125 a BUNCH of times then steady HWY light. In hot a$$ AZ, we can't be running our tires low. I need the CTIS to do 80-85 psi on the HWY setting.....

there is a thread on here you can probably find about changing the transducer to a higher pressure one? This will up the pressure on all default settings of CTIS. It is located under the power panes. Some folk have also done an air solenoid to switch between the OEM transducer and the up-pressured one giving you a wider range of pressures choices. The only advantage to the OEM CTIS if it is working is it does more automatic checking / fault seeking . Other wise the Arduino one is the Cats Meow.

 

[coachgeo]

I believe Superman can reprogram them.

The dump valves are noisy, kind of a higher pitched woosh as they dump air. Do they all sound the same? The front axle valve is on the passenger side of the transmission inside the frame rail, the rear axle valves are back over the axles.

Yes it dumps in pulses as it drops the PCU manifild to 6-7 psi to allow the dump valves(remote pressure regulators) to dump tire air. It has to stop from time to time toet the system get to tire pressure so it can check pressure at the PCU where the sensor is located...

Cool, but i bet you still have leaks(they all leak)...

maybe lube/renew the rubber duck bills and any other rubber you can in the system a little with MOTHERS and they may not squeak as much/last longer

Im not sure if Will ( @Suprman ) can program them different than what you have. Under impression there are two choices in programming and that is the LMTV settings and the MTV settings. Will can fill in that blank though.

 

[RRaulston]

I didn't hit the sand button, 35 psi had me cringing, can't imagine less than that...

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Im not sure if Will ( @Suprman ) can program them different than what you have. Under impression there are two choices in programming and that is the LMTV settings and the MTV settings. Will can fill in that blank though.

Will can do them. So can I and several other people.

There are no limitations to the settings. You can program any setting to any pressure you want, and program the speed lockouts to any speed you want. Within the ranges supported by the controller anyway - the settings are not specific to military vehicles - these controllers are generic Dana components used on industrial and over the road applications.

 

[RRaulston]

Will can do them. So can I and several other people.

There are no limitations to the settings. You can program any setting to any pressure you want, and program the speed lockouts to any speed you want. Within the ranges supported by the controller anyway - the settings are not specific to military vehicles - these controllers are generic Dana components used on industrial and over the road applications.

So what would you suggest for the Goodyears? 85 hwy, 35 xc and sand? Rolling in hot AZ, we usually keep close to max cold fill pressures for on the road driving in our cars....

 

[GeneralDisorder]

85 for highway and leave the others alone. Make sure you have newish tires if you are going to use any setting other than highway. Anything over 10 years old just don't deflate them and start looking for replacements. These tires are VERY flexible and designed to run low pressure (at low speed) but the rubber gets old and they WILL fail the sidewalls at low pressure.

 

[Third From Texas]

85 psi for HWY as well..

 

[Suprman]

Programming works best when its done on the truck the controller is being used on. Has to be an a1 truck. First gen trucks usually only inflate to 60 or so psi even with the controller set higher. Its hit or miss.

 

[Ronmar]

maybe lube/renew the rubber duck bills and any other rubber you can in the system a little with MOTHERS and they may not squeak as much/last longer

Im not sure if Will ( @Suprman ) can program them different than what you have. Under impression there are two choices in programming and that is the LMTV settings and the MTV settings. Will can fill in that blank though.

They don’t have a duckbill, just a plastic snap-on output horn/elbow. If one is making a different noise, there may be something in the horn or the valve core/sliding valve that is effecting airflow when it is in dump mode.

 

[RRaulston]

Programming works best when its done on the truck the controller is being used on. Has to be an a1 truck. First gen trucks usually only inflate to 60 or so psi even with the controller set higher. Its hit or miss.

well, Mine is an A0.....1997 MTV...

 

[Ronmar]

well, Mine is an A0.....1997 MTV...

Well you can swap out the 0-100PSI PCU pressure transducer with a 0-150PSI unit(about $10) and that will fool the controller into about a 50% increase in pressure above the normal programmed levels. Thats around 82PSI in highway mode which is a much better range for the tires…

 

[coachgeo]

Well you can swap out the 0-100PSI PCU pressure transducer with a 0-150PSI unit(about $10) and that will fool the controller into about a 50% increase in pressure above the normal programmed levels. Thats around 82PSI in highway mode which is a much better range for the tires…

Think the MTV are programmed higher for HWY than the LMTV already so the starting point prior to the doubling is higher. Though you may have accounted for that in your numbers.

 

[Third From Texas]

Well you can swap out the 0-100PSI PCU pressure transducer with a 0-150PSI unit(about $10) and that will fool the controller into about a 50% increase in pressure above the normal programmed levels. Thats around 82PSI in highway mode which is a much better range for the tires…

Yep, that's how I did it with my A0.

*note that the transducer can be oriented in different angles depending on the orientation of the unit it screw into (ie: it can sometimes be at the bottom or sides)

 

[RRaulston]

Yep, that's how I did it with my A0.

ordered. Worth a try!!

 

[Ronmar]

Think the MTV are programmed higher for HWY than the LMTV already so the starting point prior to the doubling is higher. Though you may have accounted for that in your numbers.

if it is programmed higher, it will run 50% higher than whatever it is programmed for. Sounds like his is not programmed higher, which is the issue. 62PSI sounds like an odd pressure so @RRaulston you need to keep a close eye on what pressure it does go to when you fill the first time On the new sensor. It could be that your controller is programmed for 55, and your existing sensor has crap in it or is off a bit for you to arrive at 62PSI. They pointed the sensor straight up, which is not best practice…

or it could be that your controller is programmed for higher already and your sensor is only delivering the proper volatge at 62 instead of whatever it is programmed for... i would hook up a remote gauge and watch it closely that first fill being prepared to shut it down if it climbs over the mid 80’s…

 

[coachgeo]

if it is programmed higher, it will run 50% higher than whatever it is programmed for. Sounds like his is not programmed higher, which is the issue. 62PSI sounds like an odd pressure so @RRaulston you need to keep a close eye on what pressure it does go to when you fill the first time On the new sensor. It could be that your controller is programmed for 55, and your existing sensor has crap in it or is off a bit for you to arrive at 62PSI. They pointed the sensor straight up, which is not best practice…

or it could be that your controller is programmed for higher already and your sensor is only delivering the proper volatge at 62 instead of whatever it is programmed for... i would hook up a remote gauge and watch it closely that first fill being prepared to shut it down if it climbs over the mid 80’s…

@Suprman which of the CTIS in the MTV family had CTIS control boxes that were typically preset to higher pressures than the rest of the others? Was/is it particular sub models for heavier tasks... if so which ones??