New M-1083 owner. So, here we go!!

[RRaulston]

Here is the truck. 1997 MTV. Day one of the sort out was fruitfull. I was able to get the hydro pump to work after the rebuild. It took me 2 times to figure out I had the checkball in the wrong location. After I raised the cab for the first time, I discovered the rats chewed through some of the Intercooler pipe insulation. They also chewed through the Ether tubing. Everything else looked good. Engine appears to need a pan gasket and alternator belts. So, a few questions:

1) Is my fan hub the new style or the problematic one?
2) if I pump the fuel primer and it never gets hard/stiff, is it bad?
3) how the heck do you get the knobs off the hydro box so you can clean the orifice??
4) when I lower the cab, the red lock pin doesn't retract. No clue on this one..

Thanks all!!

 

[Karl kostman]

I have not owned and MTV yet so I cannot help with the questions but when the day comes a 1083 is certainly on the list, great looking truck congrats on your purchase!

 

[Ronmar]

I have done afew vids on the lmtv here is a link to the fuel system overview vid. I have another on how to test the primer pump and a breakdown of the old style fan hub and a few others. The only difference between the old and new style fan clutch is the use of a rubber friction disc on the old style. The old rubber breaks down and stops holding the fan disc. You csn remove it and bolt the fan disc to the hub, which is badically hiw the new style attaches fan to hub to clutch.

The old style uses allen head screws to hold the hub to clutch. Thenew stylehas studs on the front of the clutch and uses nuts to hold on the fan hub. You can determine this with fingertips or an inspection mirror and light in around on the front of the assembly where the air line attaches...

 

[coachgeo]

Search "Oil Line of Death" and replace it.

Check driveline play . TM allows for more movement than your good big rig mechanic would.....many in here have decided the TM spec is too much play for civilian use; which makes sense because most civi folk do not have personal maintenance shops to keep eyes on them semi-religiously. Granted there is less disasters from 6x6 drivelines as the AWD/4x4's. ... but still...

 

[TomTime]

Here is the truck. 1997 MTV. Day one of the sort out was fruitfull. I was able to get the hydro pump to work after the rebuild. It took me 2 times to figure out I had the checkball in the wrong location. After I raised the cab for the first time, I discovered the rats chewed through some of the Intercooler pipe insulation. They also chewed through the Ether tubing. Everything else looked good. Engine appears to need a pan gasket and alternator belts. So, a few questions:

1) Is my fan hub the new style or the problematic one?
2) if I pump the fuel primer and it never gets hard/stiff, is it bad?
3) how the heck do you get the knobs off the hydro box so you can clean the orifice??
4) when I lower the cab, the red lock pin doesn't retract. No clue on this one..

Thanks all!!

Your #4. Are you talking about the cab latch pin? Can you give more details?

Tom.

 

[RRaulston]

I have done afew vids on the lmtv here is a link to the fuel system overview vid. I have another on how to test the primer pump and a breakdown of the old style fan hub and a few others. The only difference between the old and new style fan clutch is the use of a rubber friction disc on the old style. The old rubber breaks down and stops holding the fan disc. You csn remove it and bolt the fan disc to the hub, which is badically hiw the new style attaches fan to hub to clutch.

The old style uses allen head screws to hold the hub to clutch. Thenew stylehas studs on the front of the clutch and uses nuts to hold on the fan hub. You can determine this with fingertips or an inspection mirror and light in around on the front of the assembly where the air line attaches...

I watched all your videos! Several were over my head but ill get there!

 

[RRaulston]

Your #4. Are you talking about the cab latch pin? Can you give more details?

Tom.

When I lower the cab, it sets in a locking device with a red tipped pin. It was my understanding that when the red pin recedes, the cab is locked. Mine is always sticking out. I might take it apart tomorrow and see if the red tipped pin is seized. I did buy the O-ring kit for it as a precaution....

 

[RRaulston]

Search "Oil Line of Death" and replace it.

Check driveline play . TM allows for more movement than your good big rig mechanic would.....many in here have decided the TM spec is too much play for civilian use; which makes sense because most civi folk do not have personal maintenance shops to keep eyes on them semi-religiously. Granted there is less disasters from 6x6 drivelines as the AWD/4x4's. ... but still...

It arrived today. I watched everyone's videos for weeks and made notes on stuff to get. The one I got is braided stainless. The drivelines are on the list.

 

[RRaulston]

Question on the ether injection. Does anyone use it?? The small line the rat chewed is easily fixed, but I haven't heard/seen anyone use it?

 

[Ronmar]

Question on the ether injection. Does anyone use it?? The small line the rat chewed is easily fixed, but I haven't heard/seen anyone use it?

Unless you like to start like this 27F no preheat and my ether line was crimped in a bracket(I thought it was empty, it went clunk but no spray)…

A 1500W block heater is nice, I put one in, Half hour or so of preheat and she starts way easier. But if you don’t have the energy source for preheat, ether injector is a nice feature. I am keeping mine, with an un-crimped line of course…

 

[Guruman]

Question on the ether injection. Does anyone use it?? The small line the rat chewed is easily fixed, but I haven't heard/seen anyone use it?

I'm using mine. Not always, as I do have an electric block heater, and I'm planning on installing a diesel fired coolant heater at some point...

As I plan on using mine for some remote travel, including maybe a trip up to the top of Alaska at some point (not sure if Canada will allow a rig this size over the border or not). I'd like to be sure I can get it started if I ever wake up 50 miles from the pavement in a below-zero cold snap......

Buying a canister is not that cheap anymore, but if you can get it working it's still cheap insurance against a cold weather no-start.

 

[Mavcaster]

Congrats man, just sealed the deal on a M1088 myself although a little newer with 3126 but still subscribing to learn what I can through your journey!

 

[TomTime]

When I lower the cab, it sets in a locking device with a red tipped pin. It was my understanding that when the red pin recedes, the cab is locked. Mine is always sticking out. I might take it apart tomorrow and see if the red tipped pin is seized. I did buy the O-ring kit for it as a precaution....

Yeah you had me thrown with the "red tipped" pin. Mine was not red tipped with paint(?)
When I received my truck it was leaking and the pin would not release because it was leaking. I rebuilt mine.
Probably best to go ahead and rebuild the cab latch then you won't have to worry about it in the future.
Good luck.
Tom.

EDIT: You may also want to rebuild your AOH pump considering the age of your truck and flush out the old hydraulic fluid. My M1083A1 is a 2002 and the hydraulic fluid was nasty and unit non-functioning. After rebuild it works great.

 

[coachgeo]

It arrived today. I watched everyone's videos for weeks and made notes on stuff to get. The one I got is braided stainless. The drivelines are on the list.

on the braided .... make sure the line touches NOTHING and or add a coolant hose or something over the top as buffer. Braided hose can saw thru stuff it rubs against things is why.

 

[RRaulston]

on the braided .... make sure the line touches NOTHING and or add a coolant hose or something over the top as buffer. Braided hose can saw thru stuff it rubs against things is why.

great advice! I will do that...

 

[RRaulston]

well, here goes todays update. Started the truck and noticed we went from 22.7v to 24.1. Right at the edge on the green bar on the voltmeter. It's all over the place. After reading a ton of threads, the consensus was to make sure the batteries were in good shape. So, I pop the cover and found 2 ground cables "flop off" loose. I'm like WTF.... then I see it..... The broke terminal ring that was stuffed together goes to some box under the spare tire. The frayed cable that was wrapped around the terminal and held in place by a Ty wrap I believe goes to the starter.... we all know what needs to happen next....

 

[ramdough]

Wow! I have never seen that before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Wingnut13]

That’s some seriously customized equipment you’re running in the battery box there…..

 

[GeneralDisorder]

PVT Snuffy strikes again!

I have found plenty of that on my truck - a 2008 with 1500 miles on it. My grid heater was wired to the 12v side of the LBCD. Just recently found that my air intake elbow at the turbo was on backwards. Had my truck a year and still finding PVT Snuffy's calling cards.

 

[Ronmar]

Runs long enough to get outta my sight, its good to go!
One ground goes to the nato plug and the other ground goes to the instrument shunt below the polarity protection device. From the instrument shunt the ground lead continues on to the main ground terminal on the front of the starter casing. If you are making new cables, I suggest you remove the shunt and its two cables and replace it with a single cable from battery to starter ground. The shunts sole purpose is to measure current flow and provide that info to the STE cannon plug under the left side of the dash, that no one ever uses… While you are in there, clean and inspect all the connections on the polarity box. They are out in the weather and a known source of problems…

I will now climb onto my high horse and tell you to remove two of your batteries. They are gross milspec overkill. The fact that they only provided a 100A alternator to maintain them is the kind of engineering mistake class-action lawsuits are made of, but occasionally fly in the land of milspec. IMO it is the primary reason these trucks have so many electrical issues. They tried to mitigate this failure by installing a different device where the polarity box is and a disconnect relay to disconnect the batteries from an overloaded alternator so the batteries don’t kill it.

They finally addressed the issue on the A1R by shifting to a 260A alt. But they also started shifting to AGM batteries that draw nearly twice the current of flooded lead acids, so they didn’t really fix the issue.

They are demanding gold plated prices for the 100A dual volt alts, so do yourself a favor and better match the batts to the alt. Cat specced a pair of group 31 100AH batts for these engines. A pair of the original batts(120AH) will work OK with the 100A dual volt, and significantly ease its workload and potentially extend its life…