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New M-1083 owner. So, here we go!!

R

Ronmar

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Yea what third said, aux cooler only used on the tractor variant with the aux trans oil cooler radiator and fans, and the work light relay only used on the wrecker trucks. The K12 worklight relay is dead easy to convert into a 12v switched ignition relay. I did a video on it on my utube channel…
 
RRaulston

RRaulston

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If I have air slowly leaking out of the rubber elbow on the bottom air dryer is that normal? It purges the pressure fine but when the truck is running, it leaks. When I shut the truck off, it quits leaking. Weird..
 
R

Ronmar

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RRaulston said:
If I have air slowly leaking out of the rubber elbow on the bottom air dryer is that normal? It purges the pressure fine but when the truck is running, it leaks. When I shut the truck off, it quits leaking. Weird..
Click to expand...
No it should seal between purges. All the water and oil snot exit thru that purge valve it is either dirty or has a bad seal.

There is a check valve on the output of the dryer to the wet tank. So when the engine shuts down the supply side including the dryer should empty.
 
RRaulston

RRaulston

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Ronmar said:
No it should seal between purges. All the water and oil snot exit thru that purge valve it is either dirty or has a bad seal.

There is a check valve on the output of the dryer to the wet tank. So when the engine shuts down the supply side including the dryer should empty.
Click to expand...
It does empty and stop leaking a few seconds after shutdown.
 
RRaulston

RRaulston

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I added a gauge to the wet tank. Here is what happens when I open the air valve to release a little air then close it. I don't think it's getting up to pressure to activate the CTIS pressure check??!

 
G

GeneralDisorder

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Generally the governors are set to 125 on these trucks. Looks a little low. Get an actual Haldex one that's adjustable. The Bendix one's that are non-adjustable suck.

I had a Bendix non-adjustable unit on there for a while and it was causing rapid cycling when cold. After a short drive it would stop. Turned out to be the governor. I installed a new Haldex one and no more issue.
 
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R

Ronmar

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Yours should be adjustable. The governor is on top of the air compressor, unscrew the white plastic cap and screw in the standard screw head a little with a screwdriver to raise the governor cutout pressure, then test it like in your video. Repeat untill it cuts out at 125...
 
RRaulston

RRaulston

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Well it was a good/fair day:

1) The air blow off valve leaks. I rebuilt it a month ago. It is clean. I reinstalled all the old O-rings and rubber seal. It leaks. There is no fixing the leak that I can tell. The valve is pretty basic. Maybe some pressure differential causing it? I'm over it.....

2) As suggested, I adjusted the compressor pressure regular Ronmar and General suggested to 125. Well, for the first time ever, it did a pressure check. I think that tells me that $500 pressure sensor is working! Then it sounded like a wailing donkey and I got 4 flashing lights. You can see/hear it in the video.

3) spent 3 hours trying to get the leaf springs to take grease... Thats all I'm gonna say about that...

 
R

Ronmar

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Ok, for the dryer purge valve, another possibility as it is triggered by air sent from the governor when it unloads the compressor. If the governor is leaking air down that line it could be forcing that purge valve to leak. You can disconnect that 1/4” airline from the bottom of the dryer and see if the purge valve stops leaking, and if any air is leaking out of it. Just be sure to secure it to something as it will go to 125PSI when the dryer unloads and will whip the crap out of things if not secured…:)

For CTIS it sounds like it didn’t drain cleanly whan the control valve opened, or a wheel valve didn't close immediately.

The problem with CTIS is it is hard to troubleshoot and look for leaks using the controller. It is way easier to manually pressurize the system to look for leaks and to trouble shoot other performance issues with the engine not running. you can do this 2 ways:

1. Under the passenger dash disconnect the output line from the PCU down to the wheels. Connect an air fitting to this line and feed it from a regulator set to ~60PSI. This will charge and supply the whole system and you can look for leaks. This is the best way to do an initial leak check.

2. fill the tanks and shutdown. With the controller disconnected, put a jumper in the cannon plug from H to R. With the main switch on, this will close the control solenoid and allow the system to hold pressure. Next momentarily jumper from H to B. This will open the supply valve and feed wet tank air into the system. It only takes a second of air to open the wheel valves and with the control valve closed the system should stabilize and set at tire pressure. You can jumper H to C, to open the deflate solenoid and test the dump valves. When done dumping remove H-C and again briefly jump H to B to give a shot of air to stop the dump, or remove H to R jumper or turn off the main sw to open control and vent the system. This is the best way to test PCU and wheel valve operation, but not a good way to look for leaks, as once pressurized, a leak can cause it to start dumping if the truck side leaks below tire pressure…

537A5602-8D1D-4FB1-B549-9255FC4E2F47.png
 
RRaulston

RRaulston

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Sahuarita, Arizona
Ronmar said:
Ok, for the dryer purge valve, another possibility as it is triggered by air sent from the governor when it unloads the compressor. If the governor is leaking air down that line it could be forcing that purge valve to leak. You can disconnect that 1/4” airline from the bottom of the dryer and see if the purge valve stops leaking, and if any air is leaking out of it. Just be sure to secure it to something as it will go to 125PSI when the dryer unloads and will whip the crap out of things if not secured…:)

For CTIS it sounds like it didn’t drain cleanly whan the control valve opened, or a wheel valve didn't close immediately.

The problem with CTIS is it is hard to troubleshoot and look for leaks using the controller. It is way easier to manually pressurize the system to look for leaks and to trouble shoot other performance issues with the engine not running. you can do this 2 ways:

1. Under the passenger dash disconnect the output line from the PCU down to the wheels. Connect an air fitting to this line and feed it from a regulator set to ~60PSI. This will charge and supply the whole system and you can look for leaks. This is the best way to do an initial leak check.

2. fill the tanks and shutdown. With the controller disconnected, put a jumper in the cannon plug from H to R. With the main switch on, this will close the control solenoid and allow the system to hold pressure. Next momentarily jumper from H to B. This will open the supply valve and feed wet tank air into the system. It only takes a second of air to open the wheel valves and with the control valve closed the system should stabilize and set at tire pressure. You can jumper H to C, to open the deflate solenoid and test the dump valves. When done dumping remove H-C and again briefly jump H to B to give a shot of air to stop the dump, or remove H to R jumper or turn off the main sw to open control and vent the system. This is the best way to test PCU and wheel valve operation, but not a good way to look for leaks, as once pressurized, a leak can cause it to start dumping if the truck side leaks below tire pressure…

View attachment 887870
Click to expand...
I had that line disconnected and it constantly leaks. I'll get a new air governor today...
 
T

TomTime

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"3) spent 3 hours trying to get the leaf springs to take grease... Thats all I'm gonna say about that..."

[/QUOTE]

Getting grease into your leaf springs/grease zerks.

front right suspension: front grease zerks drives me crazy - SOLVED

Hello forum. I'm fighting with the front right suspension, the front grease zerks is not taking any grease. What I did: - change the grease zerks to a flat one to be able to put grease gun (?) - use heat gun to warm up old grease - use of bottle jack to reduce weight on suspension nothing...
www.steelsoldiers.com
 
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