• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

No help needed with M109 Restore..

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,542
1,075
113
Location
Slidell, LA
GE Tractor Supply also sales a thinner mat that you can use for the inside of the cab. Not sure how thick they are but we have them in the store I work at part time. I think they are about 3/8 inch thick. I may get a couple to put in my trucks after I do a little painting on a truck or two.
Harold.
I saw the mats you are talking about. They are truck bed liners. They have them in different sizes. They are actually more expensive than the 3/4" Horse Stall Mats.

I may end up installing shower floor vinyl on top of the insulation in the cab and then just get some truck floor mats for use on top of it for driver and passenger side.

The whole idea for me is to get something flexible so I can go over the center hump with it. If the rubber i too thick it will not flow smoothly over the hump.

I really need to insulate the floor and firewall in my truck! i can really feel the heat coming through once the engine warms up.

I came up with a neat way to transfer the templates I bought to the insulation. I remember seeing truck sign painters use a spokes wheel tool to trace the sign drawn. If I lay the roll of templates over the insulation and use the spoke wheel to trace the outline of the template it will leave small holes in the insulation that aI can see. Then i just follow the dotted lines and I cut out the insulation patterns. The template roll will stay intact for reuse on another truck.
 

Karl kostman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,308
893
113
Location
Fargo ND
GE your 109 is looking absolutley better every time I tune in to this channel, one thing I did to my Deuce as far as sound deadening in the cab was to Rhino line it, this went over the floor completely and up the back side of the cab to the point where the hard top bolts to, its not hard to cover the hinges on the master cylinder cover and it did make a huge difference int he sound level, I did put it on relatively thick and it does come in Government green, I ended up spraying in about 30 pounds of the stuff to complete the cab and am very happy with it, I have pics if you want to see them just let me know
KK
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,542
1,075
113
Location
Slidell, LA
GE your 109 is looking absolutley better every time I tune in to this channel, one thing I did to my Deuce as far as sound deadening in the cab was to Rhino line it, this went over the floor completely and up the back side of the cab to the point where the hard top bolts to, its not hard to cover the hinges on the master cylinder cover and it did make a huge difference int he sound level, I did put it on relatively thick and it does come in Government green, I ended up spraying in about 30 pounds of the stuff to complete the cab and am very happy with it, I have pics if you want to see them just let me know
KK
Would love to see the pictures of your work. :driver:
 

Karl kostman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,308
893
113
Location
Fargo ND
GE send me your own email address I promise to keep my floor pics to a minimum so as not to fill up your email box, or even better I posted the pics on SS under the thread Deuce is Done!!! and my name is karl Kostman that might help you find it also GE, but if not let me know your email address an they will be to you in no time GE

KK
 

LowTech

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
972
154
43
Location
Arizona
The whole idea for me is to get something flexible so I can go over the center hump with it. If the rubber i too thick it will not flow smoothly over the hump.
I kept the floor insulation separate from the insulation on the hump. First I did the floor w/ the hump/tranny cover out. Then I put in the cover and insulated that. That way I can remove the cover w/o having to cut the insulation.
I'll do the same w/ the mat that I use.
11-01-26 (0).jpg 11-01-27 (0).jpg
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,542
1,075
113
Location
Slidell, LA
I kept the floor insulation separate from the insulation on the hump. First I did the floor w/ the hump/tranny cover out. Then I put in the cover and insulated that. That way I can remove the cover w/o having to cut the insulation.
I'll do the same w/ the mat that I use.
View attachment 243028 View attachment 243029
Looks great! I had the same thought about the center hump for the same reasons. I did plan to remove the center hump metal for the install. I was going the leave the part that went over the lip unglued -so that it could be folded back to access the bolt heads. i was going to overlap the edge with the hump's insulation.

The same goes for the rubber mats. I will layer it so it can be easily removed to get access to the metal panels.

Thank you for sharing your work.:grd:
 

Karl kostman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,308
893
113
Location
Fargo ND
Lowtech I think that is going to work very well, I used FATMAT sound insulation under/inside my tranny cover then Rhino lined everything on the floor and up the back of the cab, it workd very well but I think yours is going to be better from both the heat and noise factor very nice work also Great job I would think you would be very happy with that solution!
KK
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,542
1,075
113
Location
Slidell, LA
I took the truck to the Louisiana Rally this weekend. I had the 2 fans running as well as the NAV system plugged in. All the electrical upgrades worked great. The hour ride was enjoyable and without any issues. The truck just ran great and was a joy to drive.

She was a success at the rally. Members took pictures of the mods I had come up with and I was glad to give members a personal tour of the truck and pointed out all the improvements. She got lots of compliments! I am glad I got all the work done in time for the rally.

With all the compliments I got it encourages me to continue with the mods and upgrades to the truck. Insulating the cab and installing rubber floor mats are next in line. Eventually I will need to replace all the weatherstripping in the cab. it is all dry rotted or hard as a rock!
 

Katahdin

Active member
1,303
24
38
Location
Scarborough, ME
Here's a current pic on my end, no new mods just fixing up the old stuff: cleaned the fuel tank, new gaskets, new pump fuse contact screws, new fuel pump hose, new thermostat, new hoses, new paint, etc. Today I installed the new radiator from DocFarmAll. Since "Soldier B" is literally on a cruise I modified my shop crane with castors to assist with the job. The shop crane was great for hanging heavy objects like the radiator and grill for painting. Tonight: work on the hood.
 

Attachments

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,542
1,075
113
Location
Slidell, LA
Truck looks good! I like the paint job too. I have been busy with Ebay sales and my WMO filtering system. All I did to the truck was install a lock on the boarding ladder and replace some lightbulbs in the instrument panel and the fog lamp.

I took the truck out on a 5 hour drive to get a M105 trailer from ft. Polk, LA. Truck ran great for the entire trip. I used my new Ryobi Silencing headphones and was able to hear the entire Pinheads and Patriots book through my Iphone during the trip. The headphones have a input plug that can be attached to any MP3 player of other audio sources.

I still plan to remove the seats soon and install the insulation in the cab.
 

Z71

Member
145
2
18
Location
FL, USA
Be careful what you wish for! Our temperatures and humidity are unbearable for 8 months out of the year. When I lived in NJ we had a lot more comfortable working days in the year than we got in Louisiana!
Not much better here in Florida. I cannot spend much time working on this truck, even though it is under a car canopy because of humidity and heat.
 
593
12
18
Location
Ville Platte, LA
GE:

Thanks for pointing me to your this thread on your 109. My issues are very similar to the ones you have covered here. I'm hoping to have the truck here within a month and getting to work ASAP. Luckily, with cooler weather coming, I should be able to make more progress than if I were working on it in midsummer.

I am certain I will have questions for you, if you don't mind.

Brian
LC
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,542
1,075
113
Location
Slidell, LA
GE:

Thanks for pointing me to your this thread on your 109. My issues are very similar to the ones you have covered here. I'm hoping to have the truck here within a month and getting to work ASAP. Luckily, with cooler weather coming, I should be able to make more progress than if I were working on it in midsummer.

I am certain I will have questions for you, if you don't mind.

Brian
LC
If you don't see the issue covered here feel free to ask away. I will do my best to answer your questions. If you feel like taking a drive you are welcome to come by and check out the truck in person.
 

PROSTOCKTOM

New member
126
2
0
Location
West Central Indiana
Its is real easy to remove the screws with a cordless drill and a straight bit. There is fiberglass insulation walls if you decide to drill holes.
This is mine without it's inside walls. It was loaded with stuff for the ga rally at the time. I will not be reinstalling the panels. Going to use wood.
I like the AC unit keeping the Beverage cold idea. :popcorn:

Tom
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks