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No help needed with M109 Restore..

Bighurt

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I'm having trouble following the spaghetti in the battery box.

So you keep the original 24 volt system added a 24 volt terminal block in the cab. Added a 12 volt terminal block in the cab and a battery equalizer in the cab.

The fuse blocks adjacent to the battery protect the terminal blocks or the equalizer..

An over head shot with labels would probably help...

Sorry for the questions but I found you post intrigue just difficult to follow.
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
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Location
Slidell, LA
I'm having trouble following the spaghetti in the battery box.

So you keep the original 24 volt system added a 24 volt terminal block in the cab. Added a 12 volt terminal block in the cab and a battery equalizer in the cab.

The fuse blocks adjacent to the battery protect the terminal blocks or the equalizer..

An over head shot with labels would probably help...

Sorry for the questions but I found you post intrigue just difficult to follow.
You got everything correct. I used the fuse block next to the batteries to protect the fuse panels in the cab. There is no reason for a fuse for the equalizer. it has an overload breaker built in. Since I used an insulator through the floor to protect the cables from shorting I don't think i need a fuse for them.

There is no fuse protection for the cables going to the outlet used to jump the truck! In 3 trucks I have gotten from the military they didn't even have grommets where the cable go through the floor pan!
 

goldneagle

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Slidell, LA
Some added info. So far I have not added any circuits to the 24 volt fuse panel.

I have 3 lines running to the cigarette lighters outlets under the dash.

The 2 fans on the dash are being fed off those 12 volt outlets.

12 volt fans are half the cost of 24 volt units and do the same job!

I received the Oil Filter adapters from Westfolk today and installed them. They were nice units and easy to install. I received a link to U-tube for the video of how to install them. I just followed the instructions and all went perfect!. The truck had not been run for a week -so the canisters were empty and no oil spill!

I found the spin-on filters on Amazon for $1.90 each with free shipping! They were the Wix 51789 with anti-drain. I bought all 3 they had for the price. i tried to order 14 initially, but 3 is all they had. Now they are on Amazon for $8 from one of their associate companies. BUMMER! i was hoping to get a larger quantity but 3 was all they had! At least I got a good deal on my first ones.

All I have to do is get the secondary fuel filter and I have all my filters upgraded to spin-ons.

THe next major step will be to insulate the cab. i will do that after the rally I think.

I also need to fab up a bumper step so I can get easy excess to the engine without a ladder.
 

goldneagle

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I went to Tractor Supply Sunday to get some iron to fabricate a new bumper step for the Deuce. Ended up purchasing a 10' x 10' Shelter Logic shed to store my tractor mower and some other equipment. I also got some 4' x 6' x 3/4" thick rubber mats for the floor. I never knew they had that stuff out there. I am mentioning it in case someone else here has some use for these mats. They sell for $39.99 each.

After days of delays I finally got to fabricating my bumper step for the Deuce today. I used 1-1/2" C-channel. I welded a 1' by 1' square frame made from the Iron I purchased. I cut the 2 vertical pieces on a slight angle so that the step comes out a bit forward of the bumper when attached. This will make it easier to climb up and down.

I drilled 2 holes and attached the step to the bumper with two 3/8" bolts. Primed the iron with etching primer. After drying I used top coated with camo brown paint.

Yes pictures to follow!
 

Karl kostman

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Fargo ND
Hello GE I have been foloowing your thread and find how the 109 is put together rather facinating, those things are built tough, You have done a huge amount of work on yours and its turned out beautiful, I have bid on a 109 at a GL this week and I may likely get left behind because of the prices but if not I still hope I dont have as much work on mine as you have had on yours, but if I do so be it thanks to your posts I know how to proceed! GREAT job GE and thanks for the education
KK
 

goldneagle

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GE may be fat, old and ugly...like me...but he sure does some good work...unlike me...:beer:
PB don't sell yourself short. You have the god given talent for rallying the troops and making things happen. Someone has to take charge and coordinate the work as well as gathering the talent necessary to get the work done. You are blessed with good friends that help you achieve your goals.

Lacking those talents I make up for it by doing it myself. I cannot afford to pay someone to do the work so i am forced to do it myself in order to get it done.

PB thank you for the many compliments and encouragement that really help me continue with my projects. :grd:
 

namedpipes

Member
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16
Location
Central Mass.
GE - I'm still a little ways from owning MY 109, but read your and the other diaries of restoration give me some great ideas. Keep it up! It's looking great!

Question, when you replaced the floor in the back it looks like you used plywood. Was that thinner than the planks you removed? Did you use more than one layer of ply? Did you lay sheet metal underneath or wood on frame? If you already said I'll go back and read again, but I missed it if you did. Thanks for your efforts.
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,541
1,073
113
Location
Slidell, LA
GE - I'm still a little ways from owning MY 109, but read your and the other diaries of restoration give me some great ideas. Keep it up! It's looking great!

Question, when you replaced the floor in the back it looks like you used plywood. Was that thinner than the planks you removed? Did you use more than one layer of ply? Did you lay sheet metal underneath or wood on frame? If you already said I'll go back and read again, but I missed it if you did. Thanks for your efforts.
I layered the plywood. You need a total of 1" thick to replace the wood planks. I did not use any sheet-metal under the plywood. I do not want the same rotting out to occur to the beams from sitting water between the plywood and sheet-metal. I laid vinyl sticky window weatherstripping on top of the beams to protect them from the pressure treated plywood I installed as the first layer. I used 1/4" exterior sanded plywood for the top layer.
 

Karl kostman

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Fargo ND
Good Morning GE yesterday I bid the 109 in Sparta up to 4226.00 and stopped there, it was down to me and one other person and I figured by the time all fees and transport to get the truck home I would have been well over 5K invested and all this is still site unseen. Tha is OK though there will be another GE! Have a great weekend and when my time comes I will let you know
KK
 

timntrucks

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Ponchatoula LA
looks like a great truck .. you have done alot of work and spent alot of money... hoping you had that in your budget
 

peashooter

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Location
Hanover, minnesota
Karl- sorry about that, I'm the guy you were bidding against....I was a little relieved you put that last bid in at the end as it was well over what I had planned on spending going into it:) But Im a little sad even though I saved a ton of money by loosing that I still have no truck:)
You got the best Truck of the bunch by a long shot... I previewed them on tuesday. of the 6 M109a3's 3 of them were pretty decent; either built or refurb'd in '85 including yours. one of the other "nice" ones was very rusted out as the roof must have a ton of holes in it, the other had some holes in the box as if some large bolts were pulled right through it and no brakes. Your truck will need batteries, but visually everything else looked good even has some gun mounts in the cab. I didnt get up on the roof but their didnt appear to be any rust on the van box. pm me if you have any specific questions. I took some pictures too.
 

Karl kostman

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Fargo ND
Good Afternoon Peashooter you know what I did not win the bid on that truck I think it ended around 4626.00 and I stopped at 4226.00 and to be honest I was kind of glad I did not go any further when I thought about the GL fees and my cost of getting it home I was OK with not winning, I had already gone a fair amount over what I was planning on spending. I hope who ever got it will give it a good home Peashooter. My next possible solution is to look at another straight cargo truck then get a S-280 shelter and put in the back, that would obviously be if I can find one of those? Well better luck to US next time I guess from what I hear the 109s are getting rather scarce and by the prices on these it seems to be true! Well great luck next time Peabody and fi I find anything around here that I think you may be interested in I will sure let you know about it! And even though I am not the one who wond the bid thanks a lot for the info it sounds like SOMEBODY got a darned nice 109!
KK
 

goldneagle

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Slidell, LA
I guess I must have gotten a great deal on mine then. I won the bid at $1420. I bid sight unseen as a consolation to missing the item I really wanted to bid on. It was still at $1000 30 minutes before auction closed -so I couldn't resist bidding on it. I could have had it for less than $1100 but someone can in at the last 15 minutes to bid against me. in the end I made out great! It has a brand new engine in it that had 87 hours on it!

It has a new clutch as well as some new brake lines. Also came with 5 new tires. Wow was i lucky! Here is a link to the original recovery story:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/military-vehicle-road-trips/57059-my-new-ride-1958-m109a2-recovered-camp-shelby.html
 
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goldneagle

Well-known member
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Location
Slidell, LA
Well i came up with a design for a Deuce fuel tank locking mechanism that is easy to fabricate and install. It is also safe since there is no work required to the fuel tank itself. I used some scrap 1/8" flat bar (aluminum) to make both pieces for the locking mechanism. One straight piece with a slight bend on the end is attached to the ears on the gas cap. The other piece is bent to line up with the other piece on the cap and the contour of the edge of the cab. The 2 pieces overlap when they meet and a hole was drilled for the padlock to fit through.

I attached the flat bar to the edge of the cab with 3/16" rivets. I used the same rivets to attach the first piece to the ears on the fuel tank cap. Metal screws and nuts can be used on the fuel cap and welded on in a remote location away from the fuel tank.

I also figure out how to keep thieves from taking the fuel out of the drain plug! Use a cup! Fabricate a dome that will fit over the drain plug. Attach a strap to it and wrap all the way around the tank like the 2 support bands. It would act like a chastity belt.

I am including pictures of the bumper step, and hood locks as well as some minor work inside the cab. More outlet adapters were added for different instrument to plug into the system @ 12 volts.
 

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