Polaris MRZR-D4

[gottaluvit]

Hope it works out for you, but they're selling clutches for a diesel ranger, not the MRZR-D4. Did they confirm it would work for your application? The diesel ranger uses a different engine than the MRZR.

No, I gave them the serial number and model and original numbers needed (that you posted). I just got my relays today and am about to work on that and see if I get anywhere on that. I want to hear it run before getting clutches but still will call and reverify first that these are applicable to this machine and that I can return it if it isn't up to par.

 

[publicenema]

No, I gave them the serial number and model and original numbers needed (that you posted). I just got my relays today and am about to work on that and see if I get anywhere on that. I want to hear it run before getting clutches but still will call and reverify first that these are applicable to this machine and that I can return it if it isn't up to par.

Hope it all goes smoothly for you and it runs nice when you start it. FYI, the MRZRd4 uses a kohler KDW993T engine only supplied to the US military, the ranger diesel uses a KDW1003. They may have mistakenly thought you meant a ranger diesel when you were asking about the clutch, or if you're you lucky their parts do fit.

I'll be getting pricing on the polaris clutches once my parts orders are in hand for the project I'm on now, and will let you know what they're worth.

 

[gottaluvit]

So I got all the relays and fuses in order and the throttle pedal installed and the instrument panel lit up and it seems everything electric works except the starting system. So I unplugged the small wire going to the starter and used the heavy positive wire that is dangling (far from ground) for the absent alternator and touched it to the small wire I unplugged that goes to the small post on the starter and it cranked over and started. Things are looking better. It ran okay, but the check engine light came on. There is no alternator or clutches/belt so I expect that. Publicenema, can I get the fuel filter part number. Hoping its a common one.

 

[publicenema]

So I got all the relays and fuses in order and the throttle pedal installed and the instrument panel lit up and it seems everything electric works except the starting system. So I unplugged the small wire going to the starter and used the heavy positive wire that is dangling (far from ground) for the absent alternator and touched it to the small wire I unplugged that goes to the small post on the starter and it cranked over and started. Things are looking better. It ran okay, but the check engine light came on. There is no alternator or clutches/belt so I expect that. Publicenema, can I get the fuel filter part number. Hoping its a common one.

2521460 ASM-FUEL FILTER

I'm not showing crosses to wix or donaldson, it may supercede to a new number. Should be available through polaris dealers as I believe it's shared with the ranger diesel

Edit: Not a direct cross but a donaldson P551099 may work in it's place to get you out of a jam, but I don't actually have any specs on the filter so I don't know the thread pitch or seal size. the P551099 was used on the earlier 900 diesels.

EDIT 2: For the no crank, double check your brake lights. Sometimes the Blackout Drive switch interferes with the crank signal because the crank signal needs to see brake application for crank. Other possibility is dirty contacts on the brake pressure switch

 

[gottaluvit]

2521460 ASM-FUEL FILTER

I'm not showing crosses to wix or donaldson, it may supercede to a new number. Should be available through polaris dealers as I believe it's shared with the ranger diesel

Edit: Not a direct cross but a donaldson P551099 may work in it's place to get you out of a jam, but I don't actually have any specs on the filter so I don't know the thread pitch or seal size. the P551099 was used on the earlier 900 diesels.

EDIT 2: For the no crank, double check your brake lights. Sometimes the Blackout Drive switch interferes with the crank signal because the crank signal needs to see brake application for crank. Other possibility is dirty contacts on the brake pressure switch

Hmmm. That no crank connected to no brake lights is indeed interesting and probably the problem. They robbed the rf wheel cylinder and forgot to put the cap back on the master cylinder. It had no pedal with a dangling line and I see it goes by pressure in the master cylinder to activate the brake lights. Good idea to have it not even start if one don't put foot on the brake pedal or especially if one has no brakes at all! I decided it best to just change the master cylinder. Do you have that part number readily available? Does it take dot 4 fluid?

 

[publicenema]

Hmmm. That no crank connected to no brake lights is indeed interesting and probably the problem. They robbed the rf wheel cylinder and forgot to put the cap back on the master cylinder. It had no pedal with a dangling line and I see it goes by pressure in the master cylinder to activate the brake lights. Good idea to have it not even start if one don't put foot on the brake pedal or especially if one has no brakes at all! I decided it best to just change the master cylinder. Do you have that part number readily available? Does it take dot 4 fluid?

1911982 ASM-TANDEM MASTER CYL,HB II

Not sure about dot 4 fluid, will have to check the manual later

 

[gottaluvit]

2521460 ASM-FUEL FILTER

I'm not showing crosses to wix or donaldson, it may supercede to a new number. Should be available through polaris dealers as I believe it's shared with the ranger diesel

Edit: Not a direct cross but a donaldson P551099 may work in it's place to get you out of a jam, but I don't actually have any specs on the filter so I don't know the thread pitch or seal size. the P551099 was used on the earlier 900 diesels.

EDIT 2: For the no crank, double check your brake lights. Sometimes the Blackout Drive switch interferes with the crank signal because the crank signal needs to see brake application for crank. Other possibility is dirty contacts on the brake pressure switch

As for that fuel filter, I am going to take a closer look at that donaldson as that will save a lot of unnecessary work and cost as the oem one is an entire bracket and I'd have to deal with lines instead of simply changing the canister. That don't sound like my favorite option.

 

[Gcelevator]

No, I gave them the serial number and model and original numbers needed (that you posted). I just got my relays today and am about to work on that and see if I get anywhere on that. I want to hear it run before getting clutches but still will call and reverify first that these are applicable to this machine and that I can return it if it isn't up to par.

hey gottaluvit, the last clutch was probably sold to me, i was having so much trouble with my machine eating belts (not the right belts) that while in a off-Road trip i had contacted Todd from hunter-works and he suggested i called Steve from Dura-clutch. i called from the middle of nowhere and placed the order. Steve was very through explainig everyting and what they have done to make the clutch better. i installed this last thirsday and so far big difference, i can shift in oand out of geras perfectly, engine brake is perfect. all this on the street. i still have to go off road again and test but everything is the original parts with the same part numbers, so as soon as it is back in stock, jump on it and get it, highly recomended.
the air filter is a wix 46489 from amazing, fuel separator also from amazing 2521087, and oil filter part 3040038 from the same place

 

[gottaluvit]

hey gottaluvit, the last clutch was probably sold to me, i was having so much trouble with my machine eating belts (not the right belts) that while in a off-Road trip i had contacted Todd from hunter-works and he suggested i called Steve from Dura-clutch. i called from the middle of nowhere and placed the order. Steve was very through explainig everyting and what they have done to make the clutch better. i installed this last thirsday and so far big difference, i can shit in oand out of geras perfectly, engine brake is perfect. all this on the street. i still have to go off road again and test but everything is the original parts with the same part numbers, so as soon as it is back in stock, jump on it and get it, highly recomended.
the air filter is a wix 46489 from amazing, fuel separator also from amazing 2521087, and oil filter part 3040038 from the same place

Very good to hear. Thank you

 

[gottaluvit]

Okay, I put the clutch kit on that duraclutch sent and got my completely new brake system together. Have two new batteries installed. It started right up with the ignition, with the brake light working now. However, it has the check engine light on (sometimes flashing for one to five blinks) and stays in limp mode. I ran it over an hour and it did not correct itself and is showing codes 524247 with a 4 under it, and 520273 with a 5 under it. Hoping to get this figured out soon, then seat shopping since mine were robbed. That cheap throttle pedal is suspect and I'm gonna go over every connection I touched or was unplugged by marines or govplanet employees later today. So far everything works but I havn't heard the intercooler fan run. That has me wanting to look into that as well. Anyone know a way to decipher these codes. No luck yet on internet searches. Probably specific to this model.

 

[gottaluvit]

M17VFED1MA is your model number. What you looking for?

It looks as if my wastegate actuator isn't working as it should. I removed it and the wastegate itself was seized. So I got it freed up and working very smoothly. I put 5 psi of air to the actuator and nothing until I upped it to 20 psi and then it pushed out about 3/8 - 1/2". I think these needed to actuate at 5.5 psi so I believe I need the part number for that actuator so I can just change it, if I can find one. Much appreciated.

 

[gottaluvit]

It looks as if my wastegate actuator isn't working as it should. I removed it and the wastegate itself was seized. So I got it freed up and working very smoothly. I put 5 psi of air to the actuator and nothing until I upped it to 20 psi and then it pushed out about 3/8 - 1/2". I think these needed to actuate at 5.5 psi so I believe I need the part number for that actuator so I can just change it, if I can find one. Much appreciated.

Here is a pic of the numbers on the actuator but they havn't been much help.

 

[gottaluvit]

Second try on picture.

 

[publicenema]

Hmmm. That no crank connected to no brake lights is indeed interesting and probably the problem. They robbed the rf wheel cylinder and forgot to put the cap back on the master cylinder. It had no pedal with a dangling line and I see it goes by pressure in the master cylinder to activate the brake lights. Good idea to have it not even start if one don't put foot on the brake pedal or especially if one has no brakes at all! I decided it best to just change the master cylinder. Do you have that part number readily available? Does it take dot 4 fluid?

Yes, it's DOT 4

 

[publicenema]

It looks as if my wastegate actuator isn't working as it should. I removed it and the wastegate itself was seized. So I got it freed up and working very smoothly. I put 5 psi of air to the actuator and nothing until I upped it to 20 psi and then it pushed out about 3/8 - 1/2". I think these needed to actuate at 5.5 psi so I believe I need the part number for that actuator so I can just change it, if I can find one. Much appreciated.

Doesn't breakdown past the turbo, part number is

3040406 TURBOCHARGER 240.82 WITH WG180 (993T MRZR)

 

[rasuttles]

No luck yet on Polaris selling MRZR parts. They are selling the 2017 MRZR Turbo Diesel service manual. Including updates to 2019. About $90.00 The earlier version (2012 I think is the gas motor) For now you need to find part numbers on the parts and search that way. Remember, Polaris probably makes no parts, they are all sourced out. Which is good for us because we can find parts using the part numbers. I got oil filters from Kohler. You have to use the engine serial number on their site. Get that repair manual, very useful. The item number on my invoice is 9927276.

Tips: The engine has glow plugs to heat the diesel fuel. Turn the key on one detent and wait for the glow plug light to go out before trying to start.
Then let it warm up for 10 minutes.
The repair manual shows the switch below the driver seat is the battery disconnect.

View attachment 916245

The Molle stock roof looks like crap so I added my own.
Let me know if you want details. (165.00)
I need to crop the bolt threads.
-Dave
US Army Veteran.

I recently purchased a MRZR also and I am interested in your replacement roof. Mine looks like crap also. How do I get one? Can you post a picture?

 

[rasuttles]

I've checked with Polaris and they said the service manuals aren't available, if you get one please post it on here.

I ordered one and received it.

 

[rasuttles]

Here’s a few more I’ve built.
View attachment 920537View attachment 920538

Where are you getting all the parts? This one looks brand new!

 

[rasuttles]

drive clutch has two options depending on date of manufacture. You'll have to look at the label on the right forward frame rail and reference it to make sure you order the right parts, make sure you don't lose it.

1323443 ASM-DRIVE CLUTCH,DSL,M [INCL. 2-11][TO 9/17/2018]
1323692 ASM-DRIVE CLUTCH,DSL,N [INCL. 2-11][FROM 9/17/2018]

driven clutch, same as above. reference date of manufacture to ensure correct part

1323444 ASM-DRIVEN CLUTCH,DSL,M [INCL. 2-16][TO 9/17/2018]
1323711 ASM-DRIVEN CLUTCH,DSL,MI [INCL. 2-16][FROM 9/17/2018]

drive belt

3211225 Belt, Drive

alternator

3023106 ALTERNATOR

fuse block label from under the seat if available

Forward fuse box label: 7183782 LABEL-FUSE BOX
Rear fuse box label: 7183783 LABEL-FUSE BOX

I have entered these part numbers on the Polaris site and get no info. Do you have access to the Polaris Defense site?