servicing deuce injectors

[rustystud]

I forgot to mention that the adapter needed for testing the deuce injectors is 1/2" fine thread rh, with the threads on the outside of the nut. The guy who provides a very nice adapter kit for the stock Bosh injector pop tester on eBay said,
I plan to order it ASAP, and will let you all know how it works out.

Great job going the extra mile Jeff ! Hopefully this adapter will work for us.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Since filter cups are not coming my way, it occurred to me that the corroded filter cups could be made serviceable by installing a flat seal with a washer under each of the filter cups. I will try it and see how it works, before reporting back.

 

[DavidWymore]

I could likely pretty easily make adapters if I knew the thread spec. I'll take a look when I get a round tuit, unless someone knows offhand.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

I believe it will be possible to purchase an adapter, so I am looking into that.

This weekend I dismantled and serviced 4 of the 6 injectors for my deuce. It would be useful if there was a carbon solvent available.

The manual suggests using "P-D-680, DRY CLEANING AND DEGREASING SOLVENT as a carbon solvent." Does anyone have an idea what this is?

 

[Scar59]

Mil Spec PRF 680 has been cancelled due to nasty environmental issues, it went when MEK was run out of the hangar. (MEK can be found in small pint/quart cans in some hardware store) . As for a sub for PD680, good ol' mineral spirits is recommended. Low flash and evap. points. Automotive throttle-body cleaner works for small jobs, but it flashes off to quick for big jobs.

 

[pjwest03]

I believe it will be possible to purchase an adapter, so I am looking into that.

This weekend I dismantled and serviced 4 of the 6 injectors for my deuce. It would be useful if there was a carbon solvent available.

The manual suggests using "P-D-680, DRY CLEANING AND DEGREASING SOLVENT as a carbon solvent." Does anyone have an idea what this is?

The spec was cancelled in 1999. Fundamentally it's mineral spirits. It was replaced by MIL-PRF-680, MIL-PRF-680C being the current version.

 

[rustystud]

Mil Spec PRF 680 has been cancelled due to nasty environmental issues, it went when MEK was run out of the hangar. (MEK can be found in small pint/quart cans in some hardware store) . As for a sub for PD680, good ol' mineral spirits is recommended. Low flash and evap. points. Automotive throttle-body cleaner works for small jobs, but it flashes off to quick for big jobs.

Yeah, they took all the good solvents away years ago now. Said it would cause all kinds of harm to the human body. Just because I have two extra thumbs now doesn't mean it hurt me ! In fact it improved me ! As for that nasty rash that never goes away, well we won't talk about that.
I would try and find some "MEK" myself. It is pretty good stuff.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Thanks, folks for your recommendations. I noticed MEK has made a come-back, and it is my understanding that it was removed because people who illegally made crystal meth were using MEK as a precursor to their brew.

Mineral spirits, on the other hand, works fine as a general solvent, but I was looking for something that would dissolve the carbon in the coke that tends to glue up diesel injectors, which is making it very difficult to get the last 2 injectors serviceable.

 

[pjwest03]

Thanks, folks for your recommendations. I noticed MEK has made a come-back, and it is my understanding that it was removed because people who illegally made crystal meth were using MEK as a precursor to their brew.

Mineral spirits, on the other hand, works fine as a general solvent, but I was looking for something that would dissolve the carbon in the coke that tends to glue up diesel injectors, which is making it very difficult to get the last 2 injectors serviceable.

The things that actually dissolve carbon would also dissolve the injectors. As rustystud said, all the good stuff is gone, carbon tetra-chloride or 1,1,1 thrichloroethane (TCE). The best you can hope for in removing carbon deposits is to dissolve the oily, gluey, stuff that holds it together and loosen it up. Soaking in xylene, naptha, lacquer thinner. A good long soak in very hot water with simple green or purple power works on some things. There are some marine cleaning solvents for 2 cycle engines, but they're generally only found in drum size containers. Ultrasonic cleaning might also work on injectors. It's one of the things we started using after we had to stop using TCE and Freon.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Thanks, pjwest03, for the suggestions. Yes, I find an ultra-sonic cleaner is essential equipment for cleaning my injectors. I used a 1qt one to clean my 6.2L injectors for years. I now have a 2qt one for the large injectors for the deuce. The 2 stuborn injectors have been ultra-sonically cleaned for 48 hours in stale gasoline, which has alcohol in it at 30%.

In the past I have used lacquer thinner to remove the gum that comes with burning WVO. It works great. I have also found that pure gum turpentine also works great. I have also found that MEK works great for this as well.

This weekend I plan to use fresh gasoline with alcohol in it. Hopefully it will solve the problem.

Also, the manual suggests probing the hole/s in the injector tip with a .025 wire. I happened to have a tip cleaner for my wire feed welder. I found its smallest wire (.015) works quite well, but I cannot seem to get a larger wire in the holes, so i am hopeful that .015 will work fine.

 

[rustystud]

Also, the manual suggests probing the hole/s in the injector tip with a .025 wire. I happened to have a tip cleaner for my wire feed welder. I found its smallest wire (.015) works quite well, but I cannot seem to get a larger wire in the holes, so i am hopeful that .015 will work fine.[/QUOTE]


Remember there are "two" holes in the injector tip. One is smaller then the other. The larger hole is suppose to "fill" the piston "bowl" with fuel while the smaller hole is suppose to "atomize" the fuel creating a "cloud" of fuel to start the burn. Then the fuel in the piston bowl will "slowly" burn continuing the combustion process. This will help in allowing the use of different fuels to be burned in the engine. Of course the intake, and piston, and head design also go together to create the "multifuel" .

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Thanks, yes I probed both holes with the .015 wire, and got 4 of the injectors cleaned. This weekend I plan to try gasoline as a cleaning solvent to see if it helps get the last 2 injectors cleaned up.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

I ultra-sonically cleaned the 2 injectors, and 2 hydraulic heads from the injector pumps from my 6.2L Chevy van. While I definitely saw progress in sediment loads on the bottom of the ultra-sonic, they are still stuck together. Next weekend I plan to try MEK as a solvent.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Last weekend I tried ultra-sonically cleaning the 2 stuck injectors in a gallon of fresh lacquer thinner. It got more crud off, but did not get the injectors unstuck.

I also tried heating 1 injector that is glued with lacquer from burning vegetable oil as fuel. I heated it to 550F with a heat gun. I got some movement pulling the injector nozzle from the nozzle body, but I did not get it all of the way out.

I will keep trying.

 

[DavidWymore]

Acetone and ATF

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

I have tried Acetone, but it won't touch the injector coke or lacquer. ATF sounds good. I will give it a try. Thanks.

 

[Scar59]

Have you located any MEK yet?

 

[rustystud]

I have tried Acetone, but it won't touch the injector coke or lacquer. ATF sounds good. I will give it a try. Thanks.

I know this sounds bad, but you might need to try and blast clean them. Use some "Walnut husks" in the blaster instead of silica sand. It will clean them up pretty good and not damage the finish of the injector.

 

[texas30cal]

How about corn cob or walnut media in a vibratory cartridge case cleaner?

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Have you located any MEK yet?

I found the local hardware store normally carries it, but was out, so I bought a gallon of lacquer thinner. Ultrasonically cleaning the injectors for a weekend in the lacquer thinner certainly removed more lacquer from the injectors, but the nozzle is still stuck in the nozzle holder.

I know this sounds bad, but you might need to try and blast clean them. Use some "Walnut husks" in the blaster instead of silica sand. It will clean them up pretty good and not damage the finish of the injector.

How about corn cob or walnut media in a vibratory cartridge case cleaner?

I like the idea of trying walnut shells and/or corn cob as a cleaning media, but my central problem is separating the injector nozzle from the injector holder.

I did use a wire wheel brush on a bench grinder. It works great as long as it is not used on the nozzle or the inside of the nozzle holder, which are precision machined surfaces.

I will keep working on this and report back any findings I have.