Squibbly's M1009 and other Questionable Projects

[Squibbly]

The governor cover is just a big o ring...might want to get a new cover as it might not be round anymore to be leaking...not a usual leak unless someone took it off and bent it...I have seen that a bunch....it should have a good edge to tap a few times to come out though so it shouldn't be that tight and doesn't need sealant...I need all the horn stuff too...the plastic 3 post gasket, under the center of the steering wheel, is gone on both of mine but have found them online in kits that have everything...good to see you didn't lose any knuckles changing the flywheel!!

I figured it was #3 in this image.

 

[WWRD99]

I figured it was #3 in this image.

View attachment 851567

Crap....got mixed up with the 350!! Dang, I gotta dust off my rebuild books!! I think the first one I did was in 1991. The governor # 4 has the gear end though that is that same ugh...Didn't mean to misinform. After a while they all look the same...just act like a robot and rebuild them!

 

[Squibbly]

Happy Thanksgiving, All.

 

[Squibbly]

Because that 30-35LB figure for the bell housing seemed so small I started digging around in the TMs.

This is what I found.



80 seems like too much and could crack the housing. I'm thinking maybe 50-60.

Then I also found this, which may explain where people are getting the 30 number from.



It has been repeated on this site MANY times that the torque spec for the bellhousing bolts is 30FT LBS.

Hopefully someone sees this before they only tighten the transmission bolts to 30FT LB, or someone else will jump in here and correct some figures.

 

[cucvrus]

I know every bolt has a torque tightness. But who really torques every bolt? I torque head bolts, fly wheel, and intake bolts and other important bolts. But most other bolts I tighten. After many years I know tight from loose or over tight. Anyone torquing every bolt is spending more time than I was ever allowed to do a repair. I worked GM flat Rate and most times it was the first time I ever done such job. Like the GM flat rate manual was done by a study of techs and the average time was the flat rate time. I changed hundreds of rear main seals on 2.8 V6 S10 and older 6.2 diesel engines before 1987. I could do 2 1/2 of them a day after a while. The first one took me 2 1/2 days. I never did figure out how to get the one bell bolt back in the S10. Getting it out was a nightmare and getting it back in was impossible with the cab in place. That was a long time ago. I would take 2 1/2 weeks to do one job now. Funny how that works. Happy Thanksgiving.

 

[Squibbly]

I know every bolt has a torque tightness. But who really torques every bolt? I torque head bolts, fly wheel, and intake bolts and other important bolts. But most other bolts I tighten. After many years I know tight from loose or over tight. Anyone torquing every bolt is spending more time than I was ever allowed to do a repair. I worked GM flat Rate and most times it was the first time I ever done such job. Like the GM flat rate manual was done by a study of techs and the average time was the flat rate time. I changed hundreds of rear main seals on 2.8 V6 S10 and older 6.2 diesel engines before 1987. I could do 2 1/2 of them a day after a while. The first one took me 2 1/2 days. I never did figure out how to get the one bell bolt back in the S10. Getting it out was a nightmare and getting it back in was impossible with the cab in place. That was a long time ago. I would take 2 1/2 weeks to do one job now. Funny how that works. Happy Thanksgiving.

Sounds like a vote for 50ish on those Bellhousing bolts.

 

[ezgn]

Sounds like a vote for 50ish on those Bellhousing bolts.

Tighten it by hand until you think its tight like CUCVRUS said and then check it with your torque wrench and see what you get.

 

[WWRD99]

Because that 30-35LB figure for the bell housing seemed so small I started digging around in the TMs.

This is what I found.

View attachment 851608

80 seems like too much and could crack the housing. I'm thinking maybe 50-60.

Then I also found this, which may explain where people are getting the 30 number from.

View attachment 851611

It has been repeated on this site MANY times that the torque spec for the bellhousing bolts is 30FT LBS.

Hopefully someone sees this before they only tighten the transmission bolts to 30FT LB, or someone else will jump in here and correct some figures.

80 sounds good, with my 4 foot extension that's probably all I'd get out of it! I am a torque freak though...have the nice torque to yield snap on half inch wrench and quarter inch one too use them all the time! One thing overlooked is to make sure the surface of the trans and engine is very clean with no grease or dirt on it, typically 150 grit sandpaper and some brake clean gets the surfaces ready to stick together good.

 

[ezgn]

80 sounds good, with my 4 foot extension that's probably all I'd get out of it! I am a torque freak though...have the nice torque to yield snap on half inch wrench and quarter inch one too use them all the time! One thing overlooked is to make sure the surface of the trans and engine is very clean with no grease or dirt on it, typically 150 grit sandpaper and some brake clean gets the surfaces ready to stick together good.

80 lbs sounds like a lot for a 3/8'' grade 5 bolt.

 

[cucvrus]

Bolt Torque Chart | AFT Fasteners

 

[Squibbly]

Bolt Torque Chart | AFT Fasteners

Wow.
See, this is something I didn't know. I always thought it was based on the items you were bolting together (and it kind of is), but didn't put the 2+2 together that they used specific bolts when engineering it, and the torque was based on the bolt used (which the engineers hopefully did all the math for).

Some engineer at some point did the math and decided that 6 grade 5 bolts, torqued to 30ish FT-LB is all that is needed to handle whatever load the transmission to block requires (hopefully without shaking loose). If the bolt is torqued to 31 FT-LB, then the clamping force of a 3/8 - 16 Bolt is between 480-560 LBS (depending on if the bolt is lubed or not) at each bolt. Assuming I put all the right numbers into the calculator.

Bolt Torque, Axial Clamp Force, Bolt Diameter Calculator | Engineers Edge

If you follow the 80LB Torque from the guide you are putting between 1333 and 1666 LBs of clamping force on each bolt, which seems excessive for an aluminum case.

You would have to put 396 FT-LB of torque on a 3/8 - 16 Grade 5 Bolt for it to deform...but, I'm sure the transmission housing would crack way before then.

There is the potential that I'm totally wrong and didn't understand this (math isn't my strong suit).

It doesn't really matter at the end of the day, but I just like to try to understand the "why" of things.

Ultimately as @cucvrus said...just make sure they are tight

 

[ezgn]

Wow.
See, this is something I didn't know. I always thought it was based on the items you were bolting together (and it kind of is), but didn't put the 2+2 together that they used specific bolts when engineering it, and the torque was based on the bolt used (which the engineers hopefully did all the math for).

Some engineer at some point did the math and decided that 6 grade 5 bolts, torqued to 30ish FT-LB is all that is needed to handle whatever load the transmission to block requires (hopefully without shaking loose). If the bolt is torqued to 31 FT-LB, then the clamping force of a 3/8 - 16 Bolt is between 480-560 LBS (depending on if the bolt is lubed or not) at each bolt. Assuming I put all the right numbers into the calculator.

Bolt Torque, Axial Clamp Force, Bolt Diameter Calculator | Engineers Edge

If you follow the 80LB Torque from the guide you are putting between 1333 and 1666 LBs of clamping force on each bolt, which seems excessive for an aluminum case.

You would have to put 396 FT-LB of torque on a 3/8 - 16 Grade 5 Bolt for it to deform...but, I'm sure the transmission housing would crack way before then.

There is the potential that I'm totally wrong and didn't understand this (math isn't my strong suit).

It doesn't really matter at the end of the day, but I just like to try to understand the "why" of things.

Ultimately as @cucvrus said...just make sure they are tight

You seem like a bright guy to me. Your doing great.

 

[Squibbly]

One of these days, these squirrels in my backyard are going to try this with a real buck, and get a rude awakening.
I wish I could be there to see it all unfold.

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[Squibbly]

Boom. Done. New starter and flywheel sound great. I had to floor it for the first start, since I changed the fuel pump, but once I figured that out it fires right up now.

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[ezgn]

Boom. Done. New starter and flywheel sound great. I had to floor it for the first start, since I changed the fuel pump, but once I figured that out it fires right up now.

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Nice!! almost as good as mine.

 

[Squibbly]

Productive day.
Got the flex plate finished, new starter installed, and had to put 2 gallons of transmission fluid in the tranny, and it still seems like I’m a quart short.

Good news is that my bracket flip *was* the issue. I can actually feel the truck going into gear and not slop. Park works. Took the truck for a spin around the neighborhood.

There is a ticking noise up front I need to find.

Got the new rear window regulator installed so no more camo tarp over the back window and it rolls all the way up.

Tomorrow is clean up, find the tick location (maybe exhaust manifold). and putting in the window crank and lock.

Thanks to all for the help and info.

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[jplace1011]

Productive day.
Got the flex plate finished, new starter installed, and had to put 2 gallons of transmission fluid in the tranny, and it still seems like I’m a quart short.

Good news is that my bracket flip *was* the issue. I can actually feel the truck going into gear and not slop. Park works. Took the truck for a spin around the neighborhood.

There is a ticking noise up front I need to find.

Got the new rear window regulator installed so no more camo tarp over the back window and it rolls all the way up.

Tomorrow is clean up, find the tick location (maybe exhaust manifold). and putting in the window crank and lock.

Thanks to all for the help and info.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good! You have cucvrus helping too. He’s the man! If you need a new manual crank handle for the rear, I got this one on EBay. I believe LMC Truck may have them as well. Thanks for keeping us in the loop!

BLACK manual Crank Handle with lock 2 keys & clutch fits 73-89 M1009 CUCV Blazer | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for BLACK manual Crank Handle with lock 2 keys & clutch fits 73-89 M1009 CUCV Blazer at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

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[Mullaney]

Productive day.
Got the flex plate finished, new starter installed, and had to put 2 gallons of transmission fluid in the tranny, and it still seems like I’m a quart short.

Good news is that my bracket flip *was* the issue. I can actually feel the truck going into gear and not slop. Park works. Took the truck for a spin around the neighborhood.

There is a ticking noise up front I need to find.

Got the new rear window regulator installed so no more camo tarp over the back window and it rolls all the way up.

Tomorrow is clean up, find the tick location (maybe exhaust manifold). and putting in the window crank and lock.

Thanks to all for the help and info.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

.
Before you close up the rear gate / window and call that a job completed, it needs to be lubed. I have read several posts from @cucvrus mentioning proper lube and of course not forcing the hand crank. That way you won't be doing this same job again in a few months...

 

[Squibbly]

Looking good! You have cucvrus helping too. He’s the man! If you need a new manual crank handle for the rear, I got this one on EBay. I believe LMC Truck may have them as well. Thanks for keeping us in the loop!

BLACK manual Crank Handle with lock 2 keys & clutch fits 73-89 M1009 CUCV Blazer | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for BLACK manual Crank Handle with lock 2 keys & clutch fits 73-89 M1009 CUCV Blazer at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

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Thanks. I actually have the same one already, only mine didn't come with the lock cylinder. I had to order it separately.

 

[Squibbly]

.
Before you close up the rear gate / window and call that a job completed, it needs to be lubed. I have read several posts from @cucvrus mentioning proper lube and of course not forcing the hand crank. That way you won't be doing this same job again in a few months...

Yeah, I need new window and door seals all the way around. I hit these with some silicone spray for the time being, but they'll all be getting replaced soon.

The truck had this tool in it. I assume it was for opening that window without a crank. Works perfect for that.