Superthermal's M813 Build, THE BOT

[Jbulach]

I’m going to guess when yo lay them across your tandems, You will realize this probably won’t work, but will be for a fun experiment though! I would start with just one set. You can always use them on the front. You might look at putting bridge truck dog bones on both or maybe just the rear set of tandems?

 

[Superthermal]

I’m going to guess when yo lay them across your tandems, You will realize this probably won’t work, but will be for a fun experiment though! I would start with just one set. You can always use them on the front. You might look at putting bridge truck dog bones on both or maybe just the rear set of tandems?

Will do. I think that is a great idea, experiment! I am glad to do that. If it works I can see a bunch of us on SS that run 16.00s and have had no options for chains for the rear, buying a bunch of them and going out and wheeling up,over, around and through stuff we never thought possible. Will be fun.... if it works! LOL.

 

[davidb56]

This will be the set of chains I make. Since there is not enough gap between the two tires, running a single set on each of the rears is impossible with 16.00 R20s.
This will allow me to run off road a "track-chain". This will be two sets of chains mixed. (leaves about 40% waist from one set that will be used as spare links etc...)
The yellow bands are elastic budgie cords. The cords will be run either between every link to another link, either two or three links ahead. These will keep tension on the slack between the "gap" and keep the chains somewhat slacked but tight on the pair of tires. I believe the lugs on my Tires will keep the chain sufficiently "hooked-up" to the tire which will not allow the tires to "slip" inside the chain set.
Now, I have never seen anyone do this before and maybe it will be a fail, but I have used chains wheeling plenty and I think this is going to be a KICKIN way to add chains and to add an Extra 50+ inches of traction/flotation/grab between the tires with the span of chain along the ground side of the chain.
The original chain will be 160" or so and I will need to make it about 260". This particular set of chains uses a clasp to link the chain to itself. (You can see it on the right side tire about 2:30 above the tension slider. I think I will need to use some sort of link that would never come loose even if it had full slack.
This set of chains is for sale on EBAY. If I had 3,000 x3 I would buy a set of square link double diamond graider chains... but I don't have 9 grand for that LOL. This will let me run chains on all 6 at about 1700 bucks.
View attachment 894329

1 Set (2)- 16.00R20 Konig Square Link Tire Chains | eBay

Konig Tire Chains (NEW). Tire Chains Fit: 16.00R20 Tire (Shown in Pictures). 1 Set (2 Chains) NEW. Chains can be altered to Fit: 14.00R20, 395/85R20 (Shown in Pictures), 365/85R20 Tires.

www.ebay.com

I thought about using skid steer tracks pieced together for the correct length, but never got beyond thinking. Now I just chain up one axel in the rear.

 

[Superthermal]

First day I had free that it wasn't snowing or melting like mad. Was able to get out and changed all 3 axles of their gear oil and the T-case to boot. Already did the transmission. Running now the Lucas 75W-90 Synthetic. All in all that was just shy of 13ish gallons. 3+3+3 for the axles just about 1.75ish for the t-case... (Weird how little it takes!) and the trans 2.25 gallons. I need to still put on my PTO for the Winch... which will up it from 2.25 to 2.5 gallons.

Bought three of these 5 gallon pails and had just enough between the 15 gallons to change the gear lube on my Dodge Dana60 and 70 axles and NPT205 T-case too.

 

[wap]

Finally got around to reading this all the way through. Thanks for sharing your work/progress. Definitely somethings I will have to try on my 817 when I get time this fall to pull it in for some R&R.

 

[Superthermal]

First day I had free that it wasn't snowing or melting like mad. Was able to get out and changed all 3 axles of their gear oil and the T-case to boot. Already did the transmission. Running now the Lucas 75W-90 Synthetic. All in all that was just shy of 13ish gallons. 3+3+3 for the axles just about 1.75ish for the t-case... (Weird how little it takes!) and the trans 2.25 gallons. I need to still put on my PTO for the Winch... which will up it from 2.25 to 2.5 gallons.

Bought three of these 5 gallon pails and had just enough between the 15 gallons to change the gear lube on my Dodge Dana60 and 70 axles and NPT205 T-case too.
View attachment 894848

Drove my Dodge 1990 12 valve Cummins 800 miles round trip to the MV Idaho Motor Pool Auction with this new Lucas synthetic oil in the Tcase and axles and counted a little over 19 MPG on the way up and 18.5 on the way back loaded with about 1500lbs in the bed. I have never had that mileage before. 16 all the time. 17 on a regular basis, 18 just a few times in the 26 years I have had this truck. Never 19. I like that.

 

[wap]

First time using synthetic in the dodge? Or first time using lucas?

 

[serpico760]

This will be the set of chains I make. Since there is not enough gap between the two tires, running a single set on each of the rears is impossible with 16.00 R20s.
This will allow me to run off road a "track-chain". This will be two sets of chains mixed. (leaves about 40% waist from one set that will be used as spare links etc...)
The yellow bands are elastic budgie cords. The cords will be run either between every link to another link, either two or three links ahead. These will keep tension on the slack between the "gap" and keep the chains somewhat slacked but tight on the pair of tires. I believe the lugs on my Tires will keep the chain sufficiently "hooked-up" to the tire which will not allow the tires to "slip" inside the chain set.
Now, I have never seen anyone do this before and maybe it will be a fail, but I have used chains wheeling plenty and I think this is going to be a KICKIN way to add chains and to add an Extra 50+ inches of traction/flotation/grab between the tires with the span of chain along the ground side of the chain.
The original chain will be 160" or so and I will need to make it about 260". This particular set of chains uses a clasp to link the chain to itself. (You can see it on the right side tire about 2:30 above the tension slider. I think I will need to use some sort of link that would never come loose even if it had full slack.
This set of chains is for sale on EBAY. If I had 3,000 x3 I would buy a set of square link double diamond graider chains... but I don't have 9 grand for that LOL. This will let me run chains on all 6 at about 1700 bucks.
View attachment 894329

1 Set (2)- 16.00R20 Konig Square Link Tire Chains | eBay

Konig Tire Chains (NEW). Tire Chains Fit: 16.00R20 Tire (Shown in Pictures). 1 Set (2 Chains) NEW. Chains can be altered to Fit: 14.00R20, 395/85R20 (Shown in Pictures), 365/85R20 Tires.

www.ebay.com

I'm thinking this is not going to work. Pretty sure they will end up coming off of one tire, becoming a dangerous flail and quickly destroy your truck! If you can lock the rear axles together, use on only one of the rear axles.
I suggest test this out in RC, of you know someone with a 6x6 RC truck like I have. Or even in big Lego tires with RC chains.

INJORA 2PCS Metal Snow Chain for 1.9 inch RC Crawler Tires

INJORA RC Car Metal 1.9Inch Tires Snow Chain for 1:10 Scale RC Rock Crawler Traxxas TRX4 Axial SCX10 90046Note: Snow chain are for 1:10 scale RC Car Toy. The wheel rim and tire are not included, only for referenceSuit For: 1/10 Scale RC Crawler Car, Fit 105-110mm, 115-120mm diameter 1.9inch...

www.injora.com

HC-6 1/12th Kit - Cross RC US

[vc_row][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_video link="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um_QSBGPPno" image_poster_switch="no"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_

www.crossrc.us

 

[Superthermal]

First time using synthetic in the dodge? Or first time using lucas?

I have never had synthetic in the axles or t-case. Had Valvaline 90w before. Has a 205 transfercase and Dana 60 front and Dana 70 in the rear. Averaged 67 or so mph, No overdrive in this, just a 3 speed auto.

 

[Superthermal]

Bought from the MV Idaho Motor Pool Auction some parts. A mighty thanks to some of the other MV owners here in UT that went in on some of the bids with me and split up parts which made it a much more economical thing.
Picked up 4 Torque Rod Ends,
an NHC250 oil filter,
a NHC250 head gasket kit,
a spare starter,
a spare electronic control box,
a spare power steering pump, (I recently ran mine semi dry and thought it might be in my best interest to have one)
a spare radiator,
a box of speedo adapter parts (like think of a box of speedo parts... not the kind of spedo that my boys wear for waterpolo mind you little speedo parts with gears etc...with your head is now spinning with that description what am I going to do with those...?),
a box of air fitting parts, Valves, actuators, balancers etc...
a steering wheel column mount trailer brake hand actuator (used to kick your trailer brakes on independently of the truck if needed),
ONE SIDE of a TWO SIDED adjustable 5 ton tow bar (like what am I going to do with that?),
Three! Count them, 1, 2, 3!! 20+ ton snatch blocks!!!! (One is even a double loop version) Total score!
and last but not least, a large roll of winch cable that I thought might be 5/8... But it turned out to be only 1/2" Bummer right! I do need some 5/8" winch cable ... 250' of it to be exact for my winch project.

These electrical parts will go into my EMP box and the others a stand by box for THE BOT. Progress little by little.
If anyone here needs a half a tow bar... let me know.

 

[Superthermal]

Picked up 7 Gallons of the Synthetic Mix Rotella T5 oil for an oil change and... Bought off of GOVPlanet an S-280 Box on a spirt of the moment buy. I told myself if I can buy it before fees for less than a thousand I will get it. ... Sold for $997. LOL. So I drove 1450 miles round trip to Redrock AZ to get it with a rented flatbed trailer.
My wife drove the crew cab long bed and the 20' long bed trailer with the shelter while I drove the BOT 50 miles up to a fellow MVs place where we were able to lift it into the back of The BOT with his styling HEMTT. Bit thanks again to MV owners who make time to help one another.
I do have some 1/2" cable I may make some permanent straps with rather than the cargo straps I am sporting at the moment.
I had been watching for an S-280 since I first saw one after buying this rig about a year ago now. This one is clean and undamaged. I will need to plug up a few connection plates I don't think I will be using but it is very nice inside.
This did jump forward on my priority option when the price was taken so low, otherwise I would be looking for some parts for the winch and the Detroits for the Axles. I have still been looking for some parts to do a turbo upgrade as well. Lists and cash... I have more lists than cash... But making progress.

 

[serpico760]

Picked up 7 Gallons of the Synthetic Mix Rotella T5 oil for an oil change and... Bought off of GOVPlanet an S-280 Box on a spirt of the moment buy. I told myself if I can buy it before fees for less than a thousand I will get it. ... Sold for $997. LOL. So I drove 1450 miles round trip to Redrock AZ to get it with a rented flatbed trailer.
My wife drove the crew cab long bed and the 20' long bed trailer with the shelter while I drove the BOT 50 miles up to a fellow MVs place where we were able to lift it into the back of The BOT with his styling HEMTT. Bit thanks again to MV owners who make time to help one another.
I do have some 1/2" cable I may make some permanent straps with rather than the cargo straps I am sporting at the moment.
I had been watching for an S-280 since I first saw one after buying this rig about a year ago now. This one is clean and undamaged. I will need to plug up a few connection plates I don't think I will be using but it is very nice inside.
This did jump forward on my priority option when the price was taken so low, otherwise I would be looking for some parts for the winch and the Detroits for the Axles. I have still been looking for some parts to do a turbo upgrade as well. Lists and cash... I have more lists than cash... But making progress.
View attachment 898164View attachment 898165

$997 for an s280 shelter... All I can say is wow!
A typical expedition RV habitat shelter of the same size is at least $20,000! That's with no doors windows or anything!

 

[ToddJK]

Bought from the MV Idaho Motor Pool Auction some parts. A mighty thanks to some of the other MV owners here in UT that went in on some of the bids with me and split up parts which made it a much more economical thing.
Picked up 4 Torque Rod Ends,
an NHC250 oil filter,
a NHC250 head gasket kit,
a spare starter,
a spare electronic control box,
a spare power steering pump, (I recently ran mine semi dry and thought it might be in my best interest to have one)
a spare radiator,
a box of speedo adapter parts (like think of a box of speedo parts... not the kind of spedo that my boys wear for waterpolo mind you little speedo parts with gears etc...with your head is now spinning with that description what am I going to do with those...?),
a box of air fitting parts, Valves, actuators, balancers etc...
a steering wheel column mount trailer brake hand actuator (used to kick your trailer brakes on independently of the truck if needed),
ONE SIDE of a TWO SIDED adjustable 5 ton tow bar (like what am I going to do with that?),
Three! Count them, 1, 2, 3!! 20+ ton snatch blocks!!!! (One is even a double loop version) Total score!
and last but not least, a large roll of winch cable that I thought might be 5/8... But it turned out to be only 1/2" Bummer right! I do need some 5/8" winch cable ... 250' of it to be exact for my winch project.

These electrical parts will go into my EMP box and the others a stand by box for THE BOT. Progress little by little.
If anyone here needs a half a tow bar... let me know.
View attachment 896502

Man, that's a good score! I don't think we can have too many spare parts for our MV's, but I'm sure many spouses would have a different opinion .
Those snatch blocks are good addition as well since it's difficult to find good MV blocks for our trucks, especially at a decent price point.

 

[Superthermal]

Changed the oil on this Past Saturday and had some "Trouble" getting the filter canister to seal over the new filter. Tightened it three times before I was not getting any drips out of it.
Sure makes you uneasy when you start considering each gallon is 20 bucks and removing the canister to check any seals would dump about that much out. I don't have one of those spin on adapters so went the original route.
So now have 7 gallons of fresh T5 dinosaur guts running in the BOT.

Next maintenance task will be draining and flushing the antifreeze and putting in a block heater that came with the truck as a new uninstalled part.

 

[ToddJK]

Changed the oil on this Past Saturday and had some "Trouble" getting the filter canister to seal over the new filter. Tightened it three times before I was not getting any drips out of it.
Sure makes you uneasy when you start considering each gallon is 20 bucks and removing the canister to check any seals would dump about that much out. I don't have one of those spin on adapters so went the original route.
So now have 7 gallons of fresh T5 dinosaur guts running in the BOT.

Next maintenance task will be draining and flushing the antifreeze and putting in a block heater that came with the truck as a new uninstalled part.

Been there before. Those canisters can be finicky at times and the amount of oil lost is definitely not by the quart, lol.

 

[Superthermal]

Drove in the Provo Grand Parade in the Vietnam Era group. Somewhere around 330,000 people estimated to be in attendance. Followed an M35 that looked like it just came off the plane from Vietnam. That rig totally fitting the feel of the era. I felt ashamed I had even washed my tires! Twice!
Bought 4 HEMTT Wheels from an M35 owner all the way across the country in Connecticut. (his truck bed pictured below)
Shipped all 700ish lbs for $160 bucks on YRC Freight.
Two of the Wheels will go to an MV owner here in UT as I only need two of them to finish my set of 8 tires. If you know anyone who is looking to part with some HEMTT wheels, my friend needs 5 more of them for his M916 project.

Busted down the last two 16.00R20 XZLs today.
Selling the 8 MRAP aluminum wheels for 500 to a local MV owner who says he needs 12? WHAT? Cant wait to see that project.
The BOT is coming along nicely.

 

[Superthermal]

Oops Double posted that when trying to get pics from off my phone... LOL

 

[Superthermal]

Went to the Utah MV Summer outing up American Fork Canyon. Had a great time! Rig worked flawless and I even slept in the S-280 shelter which was awesome. Great times!
Will be heading to hit the next one for fall sometime in October.

 

[Superthermal]

Ended up buying 5 gallons of the NAPA SCA Precharged Concentrate Antifreeze. Friend has a Napa Commercial Acct and was able to get it to me for significantly less than the 22 dollars it normally goes for. I have some distilled water to mix it up with.

I will be adding a block heater (that came with the BOT when I bought it) while everything is drained, as well as a coolant filter that will be inline with the cab heater. If I had a Big Cam Gen 3 after-cooler already, I would be adding it at the same time so I don't loose a bunch of coolant later when trying to plumb it in. O-well. First things first. When I do get one of these after-coolers it will be this style.


I asked the SS group some questions about how the low end of freeze points might be affected by SCAs on a thread here:

Anti-freeze SCA additives, Do they affect the freeze point? One SCA better at this than another?

I will be doing my anti-freeze flush soon and am looking to go 60/40 for the maximum low freeze point of Glycol/water mix. My question is anyone hear of any issues of SCA additives making the freeze point raise from this? or significantly affect the freeze point of the perfect 60/40 mix? Anyone...

www.steelsoldiers.com

I am shooting for a 60/40 mix to get the best freeze protection possible. You know for the nuclear winter following the financial collapse, the following civil war, the call out of the Saints to live in Remote tent cities, the massive earthquake across the USA, the UN "help" force occupying major cities across the US, the assassination of the President Elect and then the Nuclear war which will begin on a National Holiday.... All the visions of the Saints are saying this winter post nuclear attack is going to be SOOOOO cold. ( May be better to just drain all the fluids into a bucket and wait as there will be no following summer.) We shall see.

So far with the BOT I have had zero cooling issues. Crossing fingers!
I will be doing this over the next week or two hopefully. I have some other projects in the fire and may be short on time.

 

[ToddJK]

I always added a couple extra quarts of pure antifreeze when we were supposed to have a really cold winter and never had an issue. Usually the issue comes from the batteries being so cold they freeze and can't provide enough power to turn the engine over. I suggest getting some battery warmers if you're seriously planning for the cold. I got 2 off Amazon and they worked well, and I installed an oil pan heater to keep the engine oil warm. Only issue I ever had in the past was in Nebraska, there was a day I remember it was -40 with windshield and I had to use either to get my truck started, but it took almost 40 mins to get warmed up enough for the heater to be of any use. Couple years later NE got that really bad blizzard that practically shut the state down too if I remember correctly, over 6ft snow drifts all over Grand Island and Hastings, I-80 was shutdown and 90% of places were closed and inaccessible.... except for work and all of first shift called in so 2nd shift came in and we only ran a 12hr shift that day, lol.