The next Project an ASMH

[WillWagner]

So, today was another productive day. Didn't start that way, but was a win at the end! The boom indeed leaks down. First order of business after trying to repair an ultrasonic cleaner, was raising the boom and installing a new seal under the electrical slip.

We got a seal late last Wednesday. After fighting the freekin' thing for 30 mins, NOTHING has been a walk in the park on this, finally got it peeled out. Got the bore cleaned up, installed the new seal, and it fell into the bore. I even gave the people the CR/SKS part number with measurements, and they STILL got it wrong!. Made a call, gave them the number and dimensions again, and 10 ins later they said they had it. Drove over to them, thankfully only a mile, armed with calipers, and the seal was correct. Drove back, and the seal went in properly.

I also browsed thru the TM for the crane, reminds me, need to see if it is here and if not, make a PDF, and saw that the electrics connection through the center is a slip, not a couple of wires with ring terminals, Nat'l Guard strikes again! Decided to make my own. I used a copper pipe that fits nicely over the #10 wire through the center, modified some fiber washers to accept the #10 wire and made a flared wire end so as not to find it's way out of the fiber washer. The original spring I didn't care fore because the OD was too close to the metal center. Ended up making a spring out of some of the stock we have that was smaller OD and I closed the ends so the spring holds onto the wire. I think it came out good. We shall see in the future.

After that was remedied, we un wound the rear winch. One of the volunteers tha comes in on the weekends took the level wind apart, lubed it all up, fixed the too long bolts installed in it, and made it work smoothly. We hooked it to the forklift and, from the cab because the rear de-clutching stuff is still non-op, wound the winch in, nice and neat, to the fairlead and STOPPED, unlike the other operator before us, locked the tensioner, installed the chain on the new cable end and put it in place.

Next came the crane. Got all the controls in place, fired the 6602, rotated the crane to center, installed the travel braces extended to the longest position, lowered the boom into place and secured it to the bed with the pins. We found a 1/2 rope bridal for the hook, installed it and put a bit of tension on the cable. We also topped off the boom winch gearbox, it was apx 1/gallon low.

What's left is to lube the wrecker body, all of the zerks, lube all of the under body stuff for the rear, finish hooking up the de-clutching linkage, remove the throttle cable and try to free it up. If we can't, I have a vernir cable that is long enough that I might be able to make it work. Check the t-case and trans oil levels and install the covers over the control valves and swing stuff.

For the truck, there is a pretty good oil leak at the front. Not coming from the seal/cover, but out of the front of the damper. I believe it is wicking out the keyway in the adapters. The radiator will need removing to tackle this. WAY easier than the crane stuff and up my alley! Install the Stromberg carb I got a while back, we THOUGHT the Holley on it was finem but is crap. The engine smoked black and blubbers on start up and runs bad. IMHO a fuel issue, plus it uses a bunch of fuel. Everyone has said the Holley is junk, and now I believe them!

We still need to order a ft winch shear pin, do a fluid change on the winch, un soppl the ft winch and re wind it neatly, again, unlike the prior operator did.

We want to add stencils. We will do the normal TP, and stuff. I wiuld like to find pictures of one of these from the 70's, this truck was OVH'd at TEAD in '73 or '75, and mark it up like that.

The brakes are still good too! Maybe after it is all done, i'll give it a spin around the block!

 

[WillWagner]

More. And, I forgot to take a pic of the seal. Sorry.

 

[WillWagner]

A bit more forward progress yesterday.

I had "repaired" the passenger side clutch cross shaft where the de-clutching linkage attaches a while ago, but after installing the keyed arm, I was concerned that the arm would hit the bellhousing when the clutch was depressed in the cab. Well, it doesn't, so, I continued with the install, installing the arm that attaches to the rotopack and is free on the shaft.

The pics don't show that it is kinda hard to get at. The area is more than an arms reach away between the frame and trans and the hole is just big enough for 1 hand. Since the nerve damage in my neck, my digits don't work as good as they used to, so it was a tad challenging to get at things, but I got it done. I still need to adjust it. I am looking thru the TMs to figure out which one it is in. It only involves setting a freeplay adjustment.

The "repair" was cleaning up the cross shaft where someone had hit with a hammer and out of rounded the shaft and mushroomed the end. Again, since it was where it is, a file and 36 inches of emery cloth did the trick. The bores in both the keyed and pivoting lever were also messed up from the same persuasion tool.

I then moved onto the rear throttle cable. the cable came out of the truck easily. The inner cable is frozen to the case in two spots, the bend where it goes up to the throttle linkage in the engine compartment and the bend where the cable comes up from under the bed and goes to the throttle lever in the bed.

After getting it out and working it a bit, there was still no movement. It needs to be soaked in evapo rust and then oil I think. However, as most of you know, in a prior life, I worked for a diesel engine manufacturer and the last 10 or so years of my life there, I took old technology out of machinery and installed the latest and greatest drive by wire junk. I am a hoarder, sorta. When I removed components, I always put the take offs in a neat pile and gave the end user the option of taking what they wanted before tossing things in their respective bins, trash, recycle, etc. If the components weren't wanted/needed and it came time to dispose of, I would sometimes think to myself, "that could come in handy" , and would cubbyhole the item. The items would eventually make their way to another project, my "collection" or to the Museum because we were always doing little projects that sometimes required some of the stuff I removed, air filter housings, exhaust parts, intake piping, rubber pipe couplings, elbows, etc. One of the items I was infatuated with and re used multiple times were vernier cables. bulkhead type, clamp type, any length. Well, some of these made their way to collections, one such collection is at ASMH. As luck would have it, I rescued one that was exactly the same length as a 1953, M62, 5 ton wrecker rear throttle control uses!

All that needed to be done to use it was make mounting brackets for both ends, easy peasy! I fished the new cable in, made brackets, installed them and mounted the cable. I am however waiting for a rubber seal, sleeve, whatever it is, that covers the swivel tube to cable housing joint as to not allow water into the cable, but it should be here by weeks end.

 

[WillWagner]

Back when I was having issues making hydraulic pressure, I had asked about what I now know it the governor for the crane operation. @msgjd has helped me out in multiple ways, hyd line fittings, pictures of linkages, etc. When I asked about the linkage connected to the governor, he stated that he had no connections to the governor and I said I would send him pictures. Well, it's been a bit, and I thought about sending images to him via PM, but thought again that if someone else has has one of these pigs and needs images of how the linkage connects to the power divider and governor, I should post them here.

This first pic is looking from the rear of the truck, forward. The large slotted clevis is the linkage coming from the bed mounted power divider engage/disengage for the crane operation only. This attaches to the arm/shaft on the power divider that engages the hydraulic pump. The issue I had was that the 2, 1/2 inch nuts on the rod were out of adjustment, loose and would not let the shaft go all the way to the engage position. The small rod attached to the large clevis is the governor actuator rod.


The second picture is looking from the front to rear, looking at the front of the power divider. the small rod is the one attached to the large clevis from the engage/disengage lever in the bed. The other end of the small rod is attached to the air governor. When the RPM is set, IIRC, the TM says to set it at 2000 RPM, When the rear lever is put into engage, the lever on the governor sends air through the governor to the carb and lowers the RMP to whatever it is set at in the governor ang will keep the engine RMP at that speed regardless of load. Basically it is a variable speed, or VS governor like a diesel would have.



Last pic is looking front of truck toward the rear. This is just a better look at theway the linkages are connected and adjusted. Top of the pic is the bottom of the power divider, bottom of the pic is where the hydraulic pump for the crane is attached to the output of the power divider.

 

[msgjd]

Back when I was having issues making hydraulic pressure, I had asked about what I now know it the governor for the crane operation. @msgjd has helped me out in multiple ways, hyd line fittings, pictures of linkages, etc. When I asked about the linkage connected to the governor, he stated that he had no connections to the governor and I said I would send him pictures.



View attachment 932372

yeah, thanks for pics, i don't think i ever saw that linkage assembly on my truck anytime i went under to grease it, but i will look again !! I have to run it with happy spots on the throttle which depends on the load expected

 

[WillWagner]

yeah, thanks for pics, i don't think i ever saw that linkage assembly on my truck anytime i went under to grease it, but i will look again !! I have to run it with happy spots on the throttle which depends on the load expected

I think that when the throttle is set and the the lever engaged, the RPM drops to around 16-1800 and will hold there regardless of load. That is if the governor is set and not been messed with. I think the one on this truck has been messed with by our NG friends though. The seal wire has been cut and twisted back together.

 

[msgjd]

I think that when the throttle is set and the the lever engaged, the RPM drops to around 16-1800 and will hold there regardless of load. That is if the governor is set and not been messed with. I think the one on this truck has been messed with by our NG friends though. The seal wire has been cut and twisted back together.

yes i recall the BN's gasser wreckers droning away quite happily at a fairly-consistent high-idle RPM regardless of load, like a farm tractor .. Mine unfortunately is nothing like that