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My partner and I.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
The next Project an ASMH
- Thread starter WillWagner
- Start date
My partner and I.
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Finally got 1st cut hay and new ditching done, beating the current spell of bad weather.. I forgot that you had posted pics of what you needed but this morning I grabbed some pics, don't know if they will help you but here goes
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somewhere along the line of 4 owners (3 of them gov't entities), all of the tools , spades, spreaderbar, etc were taken from my truck before it went out to bid .. The only things they didn't rob were the full sets of tire chains
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I actually reached out to them via phone. Very helpful! They are in process of boxing up ALL of their publications and sending them off to somewhere else, the lady told me where, but, CRS ya know! They said they, their publications, are just taking up space and they want them gone. She said they will look through their inventory list and, if they do have it, they will just mail it to us as they don't want it any more.
Medium Wrecker Truck M62 Wrecker Crane and Accessories | Armorama™
This is a simple walkaround focusing on the Wrecker Crane and Accessories of the 5-Ton 6 X 6 Medium Wrecker Truck M62/G744, as she appeared in Decembe...armorama.com
This M62 is on display at the 45th Infantry Division Museum in Oklahoma City. ( https://www.okngmuseum.com/ )
This place has a wrecker on display. See if you can send them a mail and ask for the TM 9-837, and any other thing you might need. Cant hurt.
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Thank you sir! I see you are missing the governor actuation link for the rear winch.
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Did a bit more TS on the wrecker. With the help of "soldier B", that would be the @BLK HMMWV guy, he actually stayed off the phone, we located the majority of the air leaks. They were the lines for the rear winch clutch lever. The fittings were falling off! The gauge on the dash says there is only 90 psi in the tank when running and I never hear the governor kick the compressor out, so, I pigged the tank with shop air, that's how we found the leaks, and the governor does indeed unload the compressor but who knows at what psi, gauge reads 90. I decided to see if the governor goodies on the PTO worked, so, with the idle set at 1500 RPM, t-case N, PTO engaged, 5th gear, I went under the truck and moved the lever attached to the rear winch levers. The idle goes down to apx 1100 RPM with the lever in what would be winch engage position, goes back to 1500 when moved to the dis engage position, so that works, but has not a to do with the hydraulic pump not pumping deal. We did try it with the shut off valve in multiple positions, control levers in different positions trying to bleed it, still no juice being pumped. I guess that means a (or multiple) stuck vanes or a pump not turning. I'll leave that until I get back from Kern River. It is going to be a heavy, awkward overhead, messy job.
I did a bit of cosmetic stuff. I decided to label the control levers as well as "refurbish" the corroded, faded, illegible data plated for the controls.
I gave the plates a good sand with a mouse sander, self etched the aluminun, flat blacked them and let them sit a week. For the levers, just gave the knobs a clean up, coat of black and a letter on each, B, H, C, S. Made some 1/4 inch stencils and a lay out board. The first set was a bit time consuming, getting all of the boards cut to the right size, then after that it was just a "cut and paste" of the size needed to get the lines all lined up. The pictures make it seem that there is a ton of bleed on the tags, but there really isn't. Don't know why the phone camera makes them show up in a not sharp way.
Got the Nat'l Symbol on the doors, reg number will go on the hood, TP markings, markings on the boom and whatever else needs stenciling will be done soon.
Pics soon, for some reason, they got uploaded to the puter as a jfif?
I did a bit of cosmetic stuff. I decided to label the control levers as well as "refurbish" the corroded, faded, illegible data plated for the controls.
I gave the plates a good sand with a mouse sander, self etched the aluminun, flat blacked them and let them sit a week. For the levers, just gave the knobs a clean up, coat of black and a letter on each, B, H, C, S. Made some 1/4 inch stencils and a lay out board. The first set was a bit time consuming, getting all of the boards cut to the right size, then after that it was just a "cut and paste" of the size needed to get the lines all lined up. The pictures make it seem that there is a ton of bleed on the tags, but there really isn't. Don't know why the phone camera makes them show up in a not sharp way.
Got the Nat'l Symbol on the doors, reg number will go on the hood, TP markings, markings on the boom and whatever else needs stenciling will be done soon.
Pics soon, for some reason, they got uploaded to the puter as a jfif?
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don't sir me ! .. lol ,, I am heading home later today or tomor and will try again.. Am looking back in your posts to see what you wanted.. Next trick is remembering your picture of what you needed .. Maybe i will take a pic of your pic, good idea
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One of my pet peeves is when military museums, of all places where you would think they have experienced factual sources, posting misinformation about trucks, armor, etc... In this case they say Reo is the builder of their 5T M62 .... wowThis M62 is on display at the 45th Infantry Division Museum in Oklahoma City. ( https://www.okngmuseum.com/ )Medium Wrecker Truck M62 Wrecker Crane and Accessories | Armorama™
This is a simple walkaround focusing on the Wrecker Crane and Accessories of the 5-Ton 6 X 6 Medium Wrecker Truck M62/G744, as she appeared in Decembe...
They sure have found a unicorn
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I saw that. Remember though, this is not an Army Museum, it is the National Guard Museum. Now I am not throwing stones at our Guardsmen, HOWEVER, the wrecker I am currently neck deep in was a NG unit. I can testify that the work performed on this unit was not the best. I am trying to rectify the issues I come in contact with as I go.One of my pet peeves is when military museums, of all places where you would think they have experienced factual sources, posting misinformation about trucks, armor, etc... In this case they say Reo is the builder of their 5T M62 .... wow
They sure have found a unicorn
This was taken in to the Museum inventory directly from NG. The whole time in the Museum's possession, the two inside drivers tires have been low. I had tried in the past to air them up, but couldn't find the stems on those two wheels. I figured someone just didn't align the stems with the holes in the outer wheel, the holes were not aligned on both of the drivers rear sets. Well, come to find out, not only did they not align the holes on the wheels, they actually, SOMEHOW, got the stems between the wheels and smashed the stems flat! Inner thimbles were loose and slathered in never seize, outers were 1/2 inch impact sorta tight. Air lines, battery cables, harnesses are, well most of them, rubbing on things that rotate! Which reminds be I need to fix the B+ cable before I move the truck again, it is hard against the front drive shaft.
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getting under mine to take pics for you in places i've never had to go while doing lube , i spotted some hyd lines on mine that are resting hard on things cutting into the jackets .. yikes .. . time to grab some old tube flap material and zip ties
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BLK HMMWV
Well-known member
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Asking for friends.
What's going on with your
White Whale
Captain Ahab?.
What's going on with your
White Whale
Captain Ahab?.
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Yeah, yeah. Still there. Pump is in pieces parts. I have issues uploading pics. I'll see what I Can do
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OK, think I fixed the issue with pictures. For some reason they were being saved as JFIF. We'll see at the end of this.
After the bout of troubleshooting with the help of @BLK HMMWV , I came to the delusion that there was something amiss in the pump or power divider. I was dreading dropping the fluid and working under it more. Craig had some of the volunteers drain the tank. When I got there it was a matter of removing the 4, 3/8 bolts on the outlet plumbing to the wrecker body plumbing and letting that drain a bit. After that, the hose from the tank to the pump was loosened and the juice drained from that area. Next came the pump itself.
For those of you that are lucky enough to have NOT had to work on one of these, let me tell ya, this is a BIG pump. I have worked on things with large hydraulic pumps in a past life, and this is up there as one of the top 3 biggums! I loosened the 4 bolts holding the body together and lit the juices flow. I did this because it is big, heavy and intertwined between the linkages. And I wanted to see what/how it was failed. I didn't have a 3/4 guide stud long enough so I searched through our selection and found a few that were way too long, but that's OK, I just trimmed to fit and installed 1 guide stud to keep things from raining down on my follically challenged bean. First, the back/outlet plate and pressure plate. Looked ok, but the vanes were protruding out of the rotor pretty far. I went up top, engaged everything and then back down stairs to see if the rotor could be turned. Yup, turned easily. Now my pea brain is thinking a broken shaft or a split drive coupling.
I pulled the rotor and vanes and gave the cam ring a bit of a tap tap and off it came. I about sliced my hand on things. The vanes were sharp enough to shave with and the edges of the cam ring were too. When I got the ring down and had a look at it, the face that the vanes ride on was missing chunks and had "whoopers" on the face! I went ahead and pulled the drive end off. This has no SAE rive flange, it has 6, 5/16 bolts that secure the pump to the power divider.
When I pulled it off, the key fell out. The shaft was in tact. Put my finger in the hole, the drive was in tact. Double checked with a mirror, yup, all OK. I was able to put my finger in the output coupler and turn the output shaft. Well, that means it is in the power divider. But I KNOW it worked, I unwound the rear winch with it.
I drained the power divider, no chunks. in my head, that means a fork came loose from the shaft. I was gonna pull the side cover to have a look, but stopped, re grouped and just started looking. I decided to disconnect the linkages. When I removed the clevis pin for the rear levers, the shaft popped out an additional 1/2 inch! I then put my finger back in the output and the shaft would not turn! I put the pin and clevis back on the lever on the divider, pushing the shaft back in apx 1/2 inch, the output now turned.
SO, IF I woulda had the TM we are still looking for, TM 9-837, which is nowhere to be found, I coulda had this fixed with an adjustment. I thought it was funny that all of the jamb nuts on all of the linkages were backed off and no cotter pins were in the clevis pins. That means that the power divider and pump are OK, well, sorta. Power divider gets a refill with new fluid and will be GTG. The pump, that's another issue, Remember when I was first draining the tank and found it full of metal and what looked to be a tapered, stepped bung in the tank where a filter of some sort should have been? Did I post about that? Well, turns out my flubber gut was correct, even though I have not seen or read of a filter in any of the TM's. There SHOULD be a filter there to prevent the carnage that has happened to the pump.
We are currently looking for a cartridge kit for the pump. It is a Vickers V400-36-10-11. Vickers was bought by Eaton, Eaton/Vickers was bought by Danfoss. Danfoss has done away with the Vickers numbers and assigned their own. I could send the pump to a Danfoss dealer and they will replace it with a Danfoss pump, but I doubt it just because of the mounting flange. The TM for the wrecker body has a break down of the pump with, surprise, Vickers numbers! After a few hours google-fu-ing, I have been able to get updated Vickers numbers and even found a correct P/N for a cartridge kit, which, I have located 3 as of yesterday, I am waiting for another place to see what they can do/have. They are a .gov contractor that have some very old stock. We will see, fingers crossed.
I could put things back as they are, but, we know things are FUBAR, so, it will now fail and put more junk through the system, Murphys law.
And included is a pic of it painted. Needs to be pulled out into the light and the thin spots touched up as well as extend the boom and paint it.
After the bout of troubleshooting with the help of @BLK HMMWV , I came to the delusion that there was something amiss in the pump or power divider. I was dreading dropping the fluid and working under it more. Craig had some of the volunteers drain the tank. When I got there it was a matter of removing the 4, 3/8 bolts on the outlet plumbing to the wrecker body plumbing and letting that drain a bit. After that, the hose from the tank to the pump was loosened and the juice drained from that area. Next came the pump itself.
For those of you that are lucky enough to have NOT had to work on one of these, let me tell ya, this is a BIG pump. I have worked on things with large hydraulic pumps in a past life, and this is up there as one of the top 3 biggums! I loosened the 4 bolts holding the body together and lit the juices flow. I did this because it is big, heavy and intertwined between the linkages. And I wanted to see what/how it was failed. I didn't have a 3/4 guide stud long enough so I searched through our selection and found a few that were way too long, but that's OK, I just trimmed to fit and installed 1 guide stud to keep things from raining down on my follically challenged bean. First, the back/outlet plate and pressure plate. Looked ok, but the vanes were protruding out of the rotor pretty far. I went up top, engaged everything and then back down stairs to see if the rotor could be turned. Yup, turned easily. Now my pea brain is thinking a broken shaft or a split drive coupling.
I pulled the rotor and vanes and gave the cam ring a bit of a tap tap and off it came. I about sliced my hand on things. The vanes were sharp enough to shave with and the edges of the cam ring were too. When I got the ring down and had a look at it, the face that the vanes ride on was missing chunks and had "whoopers" on the face! I went ahead and pulled the drive end off. This has no SAE rive flange, it has 6, 5/16 bolts that secure the pump to the power divider.
When I pulled it off, the key fell out. The shaft was in tact. Put my finger in the hole, the drive was in tact. Double checked with a mirror, yup, all OK. I was able to put my finger in the output coupler and turn the output shaft. Well, that means it is in the power divider. But I KNOW it worked, I unwound the rear winch with it.
I drained the power divider, no chunks. in my head, that means a fork came loose from the shaft. I was gonna pull the side cover to have a look, but stopped, re grouped and just started looking. I decided to disconnect the linkages. When I removed the clevis pin for the rear levers, the shaft popped out an additional 1/2 inch! I then put my finger back in the output and the shaft would not turn! I put the pin and clevis back on the lever on the divider, pushing the shaft back in apx 1/2 inch, the output now turned.
SO, IF I woulda had the TM we are still looking for, TM 9-837, which is nowhere to be found, I coulda had this fixed with an adjustment. I thought it was funny that all of the jamb nuts on all of the linkages were backed off and no cotter pins were in the clevis pins. That means that the power divider and pump are OK, well, sorta. Power divider gets a refill with new fluid and will be GTG. The pump, that's another issue, Remember when I was first draining the tank and found it full of metal and what looked to be a tapered, stepped bung in the tank where a filter of some sort should have been? Did I post about that? Well, turns out my flubber gut was correct, even though I have not seen or read of a filter in any of the TM's. There SHOULD be a filter there to prevent the carnage that has happened to the pump.
We are currently looking for a cartridge kit for the pump. It is a Vickers V400-36-10-11. Vickers was bought by Eaton, Eaton/Vickers was bought by Danfoss. Danfoss has done away with the Vickers numbers and assigned their own. I could send the pump to a Danfoss dealer and they will replace it with a Danfoss pump, but I doubt it just because of the mounting flange. The TM for the wrecker body has a break down of the pump with, surprise, Vickers numbers! After a few hours google-fu-ing, I have been able to get updated Vickers numbers and even found a correct P/N for a cartridge kit, which, I have located 3 as of yesterday, I am waiting for another place to see what they can do/have. They are a .gov contractor that have some very old stock. We will see, fingers crossed.
I could put things back as they are, but, we know things are FUBAR, so, it will now fail and put more junk through the system, Murphys law.
And included is a pic of it painted. Needs to be pulled out into the light and the thin spots touched up as well as extend the boom and paint it.
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Will,
I thought I sent you a copy of TM 9-8028. Its supposed to replace the TM 9-837.
Guy
I thought I sent you a copy of TM 9-8028. Its supposed to replace the TM 9-837.
Guy
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I do not remember seeing that. Thank you!
BLK HMMWV
Well-known member
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Nice job Captain.
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Does your M62 have the "rear winch operation" tag riveted to the rear vertical plate of the bed, to the left of the winch? ..
Usually 3rd gear is adequate to run the rear winch and the winch tag indicates the requirement of having an operational governor system if used above 3rd gear... I believe the tag lists the FPM for each gear used but I forget exactly what it says but I can take a pic of mine if yours doesn't have the tag ... My governor system was stuck when I bought the truck so i ran it in 2nd or 3rd depending on difficulty of the pull .. I learned quick it's not a winch to handle alone unless we're 20-something once again and above-average strength .. Needless to say, I have not used the rear winch for several years now, it's just too much of a beast to deal with
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The tags are all there, however, they can't be read. Too corroded. I have a list that I made with what things are and where they need to be for each op. We have found some tags on e-pay. Actively looking for things so when I die, there will be no guessing. I did "re manufacture" the control tags for the crane. I think some others will be done too.
Been WAY too hot here, today 103, to go in and actually work. I do have some stuff here at the house that need to be done, got the valves adjusted on the RZR, taking care of my neighbors place while they are gone, and need to do some re sealing on one of my camping trailers to prevent moisture between the siding and molding. We are going to Pismo in a month and it is wet overnite there.
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