Warwag - m1028

[WARWAG]

Heres a pic of the oil I used.

 

[WARWAG]

Today I did a bunch of little things all CUCVs tend to need. I adjusted the hood so it now fits properly. Adjusted the door lock bar so the doors close and latch without having to slam the door shut. I also had a local machine shop cut me out a piece of 1/8" steel plate so I could mount my rear plate with a flat surface to my rear bumper. When I picked it up it was 1/2" off on each side or so. Plus one of the bolt holes was off set! Its hard to get good work done where I live....... Any way I took it home and aligned a license plate up with the 3 holes and traced out the plate with a sharpie pen. A grinder and about 1015 minutes and I had the desired shape. I enlarge each hole and slightly oblonged the one that was off center. Some paint and she was done. Im waiting for my Lite Boltz to arrive. When they do I will remove the two top stainless allen bolts and replace them with the lited bolts. Should look good and keep me legal at night. After todays work I hooked up my brand new M101A2 trailer and headed for the hills for a quick spin in the mud. Its amazing what a Detroit locker can do even with Highway tires (pictured) on the rear axle. Cant wait for my lift and 37" to arrive! Oh yah. Removed that ugly truck shell today as well.

 

[WARWAG]

Oops.... Heres a pic of the rear plate mounted.

 

[Cucvnut]

Looks good man. The rear locker is insane

 

[WARWAG]

Yes they are nice! I may throw in an ARB air locker up front.

 

[rnd-motorsports]

You like the locker in the rear wait till you get the front posi like my 1028 will go places you would not even think about normally but when you get stuck the problem is your stuck!

 

[WARWAG]

Aint that the truth!

 

[Cucvnut]

I know i cant wait to install my lock right.

 

[SmokeyDod]

You may have already found out which engine you have. Two things you can ck. First, look at front of engine RH side (pass side) right below where the head & block come together. If it is the std. 6.2 it will have it embossed on a flat area of the block "6.2 d". If it is blank, it probably a 6.5. The other ck , see if you can look at the side of your IP (injector pump) on the LH side to ck the mod # of the Stanadyne pump. All 6.2 used a no. system like DB2829-xxxx (4 #s). The 6.5 used diff. pump & they started with DB2831-xxxx. They may have just banged up the oil pan & just replaced it with the newer 6.5 pan. If it is a DB2831 IP pump, they would have had to do some mods on inside of pump to make it 12V. Main ck is the first thing I mentioned.

 

[caladin]

If the truck still shifts hard after checking the vacuum lines PM doghead he has NOS regulator valves I bought two of them it will shift like a new truck.

Seems I came to this thread late but can you tell us more about this?

 

[Cucvnut]

sure the vrv is on the Injection Pump on the left hand side. It has to rubber hoses leading off it one to the vacuum pump and one to the metal line running to the transmission. some times the rubber part on the vrv goes bad if so just remove the rubber block and plug the lines in to the pump. Doghead is a mod he might still have them for sale you can pm him.

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

If you havent solved your shifting problem yet, change your tranny filter and fluid. My 1008 shifted really hard until I changed the filter, now it shifts like a caddy.

 

[chevymike]

I don't recall seeing it listed but did you replace your vacuum modulator on the trans? That was my problem... after replacing all the missing/broken vacuum lines. Now it shifts just like it suppose to.

 

[WARWAG]

I covered the shifting fix in another thread.

The cause was a defective metal vacuum tube. One end that was flared had beem "pulled" or "stretched". This created a tapper in the metal vacuum line. I found it by using a clear hose vs the standard black vacuum hose. I noticed that the flare would seal if the hose was pefectly in line with the metal line. When the hose would move slightly in any direction it would loose the vacuum. The cure was a longer vacuum hose pushed well past the flare (about an 1" if memory serves me correct). I then used a small hose clamp. The transmission shifts beautifully now!

 

[Cucvnut]

I put a new modulator in my th400 but i put an adjustable one.

 

[K10A]

sometimes the spring will break in the governor too and cause weird problems. It is under the small bowl shaped cap held on by a single spring clip on the rear corner,forget which side.

 

[WARWAG]

You may have already found out which engine you have. Two things you can ck. First, look at front of engine RH side (pass side) right below where the head & block come together. If it is the std. 6.2 it will have it embossed on a flat area of the block "6.2 d". If it is blank, it probably a 6.5. The other ck , see if you can look at the side of your IP (injector pump) on the LH side to ck the mod # of the Stanadyne pump. All 6.2 used a no. system like DB2829-xxxx (4 #s). The 6.5 used diff. pump & they started with DB2831-xxxx. They may have just banged up the oil pan & just replaced it with the newer 6.5 pan. If it is a DB2831 IP pump, they would have had to do some mods on inside of pump to make it 12V. Main ck is the first thing I mentioned.

Thanks for the information. Going out to check now.

 

[WARWAG]

Here is what I found........




6.2

 

[WARWAG]

On a slightly happier note my "Lite N Boltz" LED lites showed up today! Thanks SUMMIT. Not sure why they (UPS) didnt knock on the door or I could have installed them already. The weather is now turning to crud and Im not going out in it. Oh, they are going in place of my rear license plate two top bolts. I will now be legal at night. Will post pictures when Im done.

 

[WARWAG]

Well not much to report. Changed out both headlights and a running light. The running light turned out to be a bad connection in the bulb housing. After few minutes of playing with it I found the bad wire. Cleaned it up and now it works. Picked up a replacement rear view mirror at NAPA but will be looking for a CHEVY one at a junk yard as the new one is not quite right. I also installed one of my Lite N Boltz license plate lights. Unfortunately when I took the nut off of one of them the sealant they used on the end over hung the edge and as I backed the nut of it twisted and broke the two wires. A call to the Manufacturer for a replacement is still pending since they were closed when I called Friday. But I installed one and that will keep me legal and will simply install the other one at a later date.