Well, I done did it. Won a m1078. Need to get it home... In Wahington - any suggesti

[Oski1042]

Mainsail ... another WA owner here. I had the same feeling about these trucks until I started diving into fixing various things on the truck. There are certainly large engine and transmission issues that are way beyond my skill level .... but armed with the Tech Manuals and the space to do the work ... you would be surprised how much more comfortable you will become working on these tough trucks.

Two other amazing resources for owners of these trucks are the online communities dedicated to LMTV/FMTV trucks. Obviously Steel Soldiers represents an incredible depository of knowledge. My experience has been that the "pros" around here are completely supportive of those willing to learn. (my only counsel would be that you do as much research as possible before posing a question .... some can get a little perturbed/snarky when people show up wanting easy answers) The other element is that whatever issue you are having, there is a high probability that it has been brought up in the past. (Searching this site is more of an art than a science!)

The other resource that has been huge for my experience are the LMTV " how-to's" on YouTube. Of particular value for me was the "Abel Build" videos by "Fastidious RestoMods". If you watch all 130+ short videos, you can't help but feel more comfortable working on these trucks.

One other suggestion I would make to prospective owners is to really think long and hard about avoiding what may seem like a cheap auction truck. Honestly unless you can really inspect it .... you are rolling the dice. I got lucky with mine (five years ago) .... but the ones I see now seem to be picked over for parts and generally a little scary ... if you don't have a bunch of experience. That said, there are folks on this site and other sites that sell are selling refurbished trucks at very reasonable prices. Someday when I add another axle (M1083) ... I will definitely go that direction!

The bottomline for me is that I hope to take this vehicle all over remote areas of North America. To do that without being constantly stressed about what could go wrong ... I knew I needed to become proficient at keeping "Tortuga" running. I definitely feel much better than I did when I first bought the truck.

Hope these ramblings are helpful ....

PS: There is an LMTV /FMTV get together being put together for late August by another great YouTube vlogger ("Helicool's Hellipad") at his property in Chehalis. This will be a GREAT assemblage of folks that really know their stuff about these trucks. I am definitely looking forward to it!

 

[Ronmar]

Also in WA and reading because I would love to have one if these. Haven't had the nerve to bid on any as I don't know much about them or have any heavy truck maintenance experience. I like the ones Suprman has out there in my home state of CT, but too far away.

I saw a really nice privately owned tan one running down the highway in Kitsap County, just outside Silverdale last year, but haven't seen it again.

Good luck with the work and keep posting!

IMO, unless you do your own work, you should probably pass. The big truck thing gets pretty expensive when you start paying someone else to do it.

If you can work on a little truck, you can work on a big one. in fact my 98 A0 is actually closer to some of the vehicles I have had back in the 80's The only computer is the transmission controller, everything else is pretty simple basic truck, only some of the parts are heavier the A1 and A1R are more like a modern vehicle with computers and data comms to talk to code readers and programmers... the engines run a little cleaner but you need a reader to troubleshoot the ECU.

As to parts there are a few reliable suppliers although some parts can be hard to find, but the communities here and on FB have shared a lot of work-arounds to those, again if you can do your own work... Probably the biggest difference is air brakes, but they are really not that difficult once you understand the parts. Lots of utube vids on how air brake component parts and systems operate.

bidding can be a crapshoot, these things went to excess for a reason and pretty much all have some parts removed. there are usually lots of pics and even videos of engine startup and running. You can gain a lot of info from them if you know what to look for... Again, your ability to make something of a auction truck depends upon your skillset...

 

[spankybear]

Also in WA and reading because I would love to have one if these. Haven't had the nerve to bid on any as I don't know much about them or have any heavy truck maintenance experience. I like the ones Suprman has out there in my home state of CT, but too far away.

I saw a really nice privately owned tan one running down the highway in Kitsap County, just outside Silverdale last year, but haven't seen it again.

Good luck with the work and keep posting!

It's a gamble to buy at auction without inspection. I got mine at the right price. It was about 99% complete... but you never know what the Army dudes will take and cut off the truck. You also cant see all of the rust.

Biggest thing it time... I wanted to have this on the road in 2018 but with work working me all summer long with hardly any days off and time in the hospital it had dragged on. I only got a ton of work done as of late was because work shut down for 4 weeks covids and all.

If you want to buy one from someone in the Northwest I would ask MGKMartin He may one for sale?

 

[spankybear]

Did a little camo ing...

 

[spankybear]

After the 2nd attempt I got the windshield in... The first try I did it the way I have done that style of glass before. When I got to the top corners the glass and seal was a tad too high and the lip came off the pinch weld and lots of swearing and pissing off my buddy... Take 2 was read the TM to see how they say to do it. The biggest help was to use the lube they call out. Night and day! So I recommend if you are going to install a windshield yourself get the P80 lube and follow the TM. I got the lube from McMaster Carr. If anyone in the washington area needs some lube I have same I can spare. Just need something to put it in. I little goes a long way.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[spankybear]

Installing clearance lights on the top of the cab and I spun one rivnut... GERRR..... and I am not sure were to find one on a Saturday... I have just about ever other size but M4

 

[Kbarnes0]

Installing clearance lights on the top of the cab and I spun one rivnut... GERRR..... and I am not sure were to find one on a Saturday... I have just about ever other size but M4

Not sure if you have a Tacoma Screw near you. The one by me is open until one on Saturday's.

 

[spankybear]

Yeah there are a couple but 45 min drive or so...

will have to wait until Monday...

 

[spankybear]

windshield in, marker lights on the cab and now have most of the sound deadening installed... Can start to put the cab interior back together!!! As far as I can tell I have no leaks!!!

 

[MrMikey4026]

Does anybody have any leads on upper sway bar bushings? In the 24P figure 182 I need items 3, 4, and 5.

Are you speaking of the ones that go in the frame mounted brackets?
If so, I have some brackets with good bushings in them. They are FMTV but look like the same stuff.
Come and get them!

 

[coachgeo]

Are you speaking of the ones that go in the frame mounted brackets?
If so, I have some brackets with good bushings in them. They are FMTV but look like the same stuff.
Come and get them!

Dosen't Awsomeness (member) make both upper and lower sway bar bushings? or just lower? Might can find his listings in classifieds

update...... well he makes the lower.... check with him.... if he does not make uppers... he is liable to know who does or an equivilant aftermarket at least

Greaseable polyurethane sway bar bushings

Just weeks after getting my M1078, the sway bar bushings fell apart, and were soon completely gone. I decided to make some heavy duty polyurethane replacements, and make them [optionally] greaseable. Here's the CAD model so far... I 3D printed a prototype, to test fit, and everything looks...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[spankybear]

Got the dash together and them started it... Been awhile since it ran...

I just need to figure out what I am going to do with the indicator lights. The glass is broken.

 

[ramdough]

Got the dash together and them started it... Been awhile since it ran...

I just need to figure out what I am going to do with the indicator lights. The glass is broken.

I think you can get replacement glass in the large auction site.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[spankybear]

I think you can get replacement glass in the large auction site.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw them,,, I do not like the shiny front. I was thinking about trying to make some myself. Maybe use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Transparency-Printers-Sheets-CG7060/dp/B000QUZ8K6?th=1 and a frosted top sheet? I dont't know

 

[spankybear]

Did more detailed work like putting the heater back in, grill back on and replacing the Packard connectors. All of the rubber is rotten. Truck is running very well. Its also looking good!

Now on to the next issue. The CTIS box has the 5 solid as in not flashing lights. I know where was some threads on that but I can find them. Is the unit toast? If it is where are people getting them? I remember someone had the computer that could reset them. Maybe this can be reset? Anybody have a link to though threads? So far search is not working well for me.

Another issue is I need to reseal the drip rails. What seam sealer do people like?

 

[Kbarnes0]

Did more detailed work like putting the heater back in, grill back on and replacing the Packard connectors. All of the rubber is rotten. Truck is running very well. Its also looking good!

Now on to the next issue. The CTIS box has the 5 solid as in not flashing lights. I know where was some threads on that but I can find them. Is the unit toast? If it is where are people getting them? I remember someone had the computer that could reset them. Maybe this can be reset? Anybody have a link to though threads? So far search is not working well for me.

Another issue is I need to reseal the drip rails. What seam sealer do people like?

Mine was also 5 solid lights. From others and what I read, it's dead. I hadn't read about a way to reset with computer.

After calling around (a few sites are still listed as in stock) with no luck, I decided to go with one of the custom units @Plasa makes. He has a couple options. He will be shipping mine soon. I'm in Tacoma, maybe it would save a few bucks to ship together? Ships out of Italy

Might be good option to reach out to him.

If you search CTIS Arduino you will see his posts

 

[MrMikey4026]

Mine was also 5 solid lights. From others and what I read, it's dead. I hadn't read about a way to reset with computer.

After calling around (a few sites are still listed as in stock) with no luck, I decided to go with one of the custom units @Plasa makes. He has a couple options. He will be shipping mine soon. I'm in Tacoma, maybe it would save a few bucks to ship together? Ships out of Italy

Might be good option to reach out to him.

If you search CTIS Arduino you will see his posts

I would like to have a look at your old one to see if it is repairable. I have an electronics tech that works for me and he is good at it.
I could pick it up or,meet you.
Live in Eatonville, work in Puyallup.
Mike

 

[coachgeo]

if it is not going to cost you anything to evaluate the electronics of the unit..... go for it..... at mean time put air in the system as described by Ronmar (will get you link in a second) and check for actual faults in the air system ....... for this too can cause all kind of blinking/solid lights)

you need to diagnose the air issues anyway cause their is bound to be some.

Ps- Will / Suprman can reprogram the ones that are re-programmable.... and he sells ones that are refreshed or NOS too.

 

[coachgeo]

i.... (will get you link in a second) and check for actual faults in the air system ....... for this too can cause all kind of blinking/solid lights)....

Manual CTIS, electric over pneumatic.

An automotive leakdown tester is a godsend for troubleshooting CTIS. Just remove the air line on the left side of the PCU, attach the Leakdown tester and pressure to 50 psi. Go over the air system with soapy water and a spray bottle, paying particular attention to the vents on the quick release...

steelsoldiers.com

 

[spankybear]

I would like to have a look at your old one to see if it is repairable. I have an electronics tech that works for me and he is good at it.
I could pick it up or,meet you.
Live in Eatonville, work in Puyallup.
Mike

I have not looked myself but I have been told these units are potted . If true these is nothing to repair component wise. Do you have the software to take to these units? If there is still a way to communicate to these units I am sure they can be fixed. I think there maybe a code set in them and like the WTEC II stops the unit. I do know they have no volatile memory in them.