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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Charlie175

Well-known member
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Location
VA 22849
Pulled the in tank pump on Deuce #2 and got that working. It was nasty but I am happy I don't have to buy a new one! Contacted the old Fire Company that had the truck previously. They had it from 1996 to 2008. Mainly for parades and Brush duty. Said they did a complete service on it before turning it back in to upgrade to a A3 model. No wonder the Diesel had turned bad in it! Sat for 10 years at DRMO...
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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NORTH (Canada)
But I think they made a nest in the box I could smell pee the whole time, which sucks I just had that apart to fix heater core and removed a nest.
Yes, but did you put a sticker in that says "Mice prohibited "? Black mouse in red circle with red bar across?

How are they supposed to know?!



Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

Aussie Bloke

Well-known member
725
373
63
Location
Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,....


Today I had some time free so I went to see about replacing the compressor belt that has my Deuce parked in my back yard.

I have come to the conclusion that I will have to remove the radiator, I think I may replace the other belts while I am there.

Also While I was under my Deuce I was reminded of the axle boots I need to replace, I also could give it a good wash underneath.


Aussie.
 

ldmack3

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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N. Central Idaho
Just a thought. While I had my radiator out not only did I take it to a radiator shop for cleaning, I removed the studs and are replacing them with bolts to make R&R easier in the future. If you do this be SURE to measure carefully as there is a small pad in the bottom of the hole to protect the core. Too long a bolt and it can damage the core. Don't recall what length I'm using.
 

Aussie Bloke

Well-known member
725
373
63
Location
Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,....


Well I have undone the bolts that hold the radiator and it is now draining,....

Its hot here so I will call it a day for work outside, tomorrow I only need to lift the radiator enough to move the bottom forward about a centimetre so I can

get the belts past the lower pulley. If all go's according to the plan in my head I should have the whole job done by lunchtime.

Then I might get to adjust the voltage output at the alternator so I have 28 Volts at the battery terminals.

Mind you the less we talk about what go's through my mind the better,....

;)



Aussie.
 

Aussie Bloke

Well-known member
725
373
63
Location
Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,....


Well I go the new belts on,....

I undid the bolts on the bottom of the radiator and the two on the brace at the top.

I then tried to pry the radiator up, I had to use my porta power so I can raise it just enough for the lower bolts to clear so I can move the bottom forward

to give me the room to get the belts past the radiator shroud and the lower pulley.

Funny thing is the fan blade is touching the bottom of the shroud when it is high enough, JUST barely enough room.

Keep in mind I have not removed the radiator hoses.

Now I can get the belts past the pulley, I now cannot get them past the fan as its against the shroud,....

sigh,...

So now I have to lower the radiator again to get the belts pat the fan,....

I put ALL new belts on since I had to replace the compressor belt,...

There were cracks in the other two belts anyway, so after a lot of messing about I now have ALL new belts on.

But now I have a now problem,....

The last time I lifted the radiator it slipped off the engine mount and when that happened the fan blade is now OUTSIDE the shroud.

I can't lift the radiator high enough now because the fan blade is in the way of the shroud.

So now I'm left with the only option to have to remove the brush guard so I can lift the radiator out and slot the lower end back in.

Also the radiator hoses are being a bit of a pain,....

After all this time I finally get the belts replaced and now I can't get the radiator back in,.....

Everyone else seems to have a much easier time doing this,....

I can't believe what should be a simple job is so convoluted.

I'll have to finish this tomorrow if nothing else slows me down,...



Aussie.
 

tommys2patrick

Well-known member
699
272
63
Location
Livermore, Colorado
Did you try undoing the front engine block mounts a little? if you can raise the front of the engine just an inch it may be enough. not too hard if you can get a good lift on the engine without mucking up the oil pan. by the way, great job moving radiator out of the way without disconnecting hoses. when you described what you were doing my mind went right to the lower hose coming loose and releasing a flood. no worries right!
 

Mullaney

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Charlotte NC
G'day everyone,....


Well I go the new belts on,....

I undid the bolts on the bottom of the radiator and the two on the brace at the top.

I then tried to pry the radiator up, I had to use my porta power so I can raise it just enough for the lower bolts to clear so I can move the bottom forward

to give me the room to get the belts past the radiator shroud and the lower pulley.

Funny thing is the fan blade is touching the bottom of the shroud when it is high enough, JUST barely enough room.

Keep in mind I have not removed the radiator hoses.

Now I can get the belts past the pulley, I now cannot get them past the fan as its against the shroud,....

sigh,...

So now I have to lower the radiator again to get the belts pat the fan,....

I put ALL new belts on since I had to replace the compressor belt,...

There were cracks in the other two belts anyway, so after a lot of messing about I now have ALL new belts on.

But now I have a now problem,....

The last time I lifted the radiator it slipped off the engine mount and when that happened the fan blade is now OUTSIDE the shroud.

I can't lift the radiator high enough now because the fan blade is in the way of the shroud.

So now I'm left with the only option to have to remove the brush guard so I can lift the radiator out and slot the lower end back in.

Also the radiator hoses are being a bit of a pain,....

After all this time I finally get the belts replaced and now I can't get the radiator back in,.....

Everyone else seems to have a much easier time doing this,....

I can't believe what should be a simple job is so convoluted.

I'll have to finish this tomorrow if nothing else slows me down,...



Aussie.
.
Winder if while you are already doing - if replacement hoses might be a good investment. If what you have isn't new, the hoses might just be stuck to the radiator. Have had to slit them the long way to peel them off there in days gone by. :-(
 

Aussie Bloke

Well-known member
725
373
63
Location
Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,....


Thats weird, I changed mine in about a hour. I didnt have to remove, lift etc anything. Is something modified?

I don't see anything modified but my issue was the gap between the lower pulley and the radiator shroud was half what was needed to get a belt past it.

Thats why I had to move the radiator forward to make a gap to get the belts past.


Aussie.
 

Aussie Bloke

Well-known member
725
373
63
Location
Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,.....


.
Winder if while you are already doing - if replacement hoses might be a good investment......

As it happens ALL except the lower radiator hose was replaced by the last owner, even the little ones on top of the manifold.

I replaced the lower radiator hose after this:


Even that took me ages to do, but i got it done.

Right now I just have to put the radiator back in place.



Aussie.
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
Charlie, if you choose to rebuild your wheel cylinder get the correct hone and use the NAPA rebuild kit #54. Everything you need is there and it's Made in the USA. Also don't forget the Rear Axle Cork Seal # 713795.
Hi Tracer! Just make sure the hone and rebuild kit don't add up to more than a new wheel cylinder. They are $45 each at Eastern. I just bought four not too long ago. You can use a good oil resistant silicone sealer in place of the cork before putting the outer grease seal on.
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
G'day everyone,.....





As it happens ALL except the lower radiator hose was replaced by the last owner, even the little ones on top of the manifold.

I replaced the lower radiator hose after this:


Even that took me ages to do, but i got it done.

Right now I just have to put the radiator back in place.



Aussie.
That's just how I did it Aussie Bloke. Remove the radiator. Install four new hoses. Push the radiator back onto them. The top hoses are especially hard to get on with the radiator in place.
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
G'day everyone,.....





As it happens ALL except the lower radiator hose was replaced by the last owner, even the little ones on top of the manifold.

I replaced the lower radiator hose after this:


Even that took me ages to do, but i got it done.

Right now I just have to put the radiator back in place.



Aussie.
Hi Aussie Bloke! Yeah, I don't remember having to move the radiator to get my compressor belt on. I'm sure I skinned a knuckle though. I was awe inspired by your video. That's more level road than in the entire state of Pennsylvania which is pretty damn large! Where are the potholes? If I had that much flat road I'd be cruising at WARP-SPEED most of the time!
 

ldmack3

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
849
1,740
93
Location
N. Central Idaho
Hi Tracer! Just make sure the hone and rebuild kit don't add up to more than a new wheel cylinder. They are $45 each at Eastern. I just bought four not too long ago. You can use a good oil resistant silicone sealer in place of the cork before putting the outer grease seal on.
Also make sure where they are made or what size the bleed screw is. I just replaced all six of mine and when it came to bleeding it is royal pain in the arse. The bleed screws are metric. Requiring a 12 mm wrench. The increased size of the screw makes it very difficult to get the wrench on and sockets won't clear the plate. I've yet to buy a new 12 mm and grind it down or a 12 mm ignition wrench.
The nipple for the bleed hose is smaller requiring a different hose or holding it on the new screws.
The banjo strips easily also.
If your old bleed screw sealing surface is galled you can put it in a drill press and carefully maintaining the same angle file them smooth again. I did this before I replaced my cylinders, so I know it works.

So right now I'm looking for bleed screws in 7/16".
 

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Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
1,267
113
Location
Effort PA
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