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What did you do to your deuce this week?

pitpawten

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Personally, I'd use seafoam, 2 stroke oil, and diesel...but that's just me... Keep in mind that any unused fuel just gets sent back to the tank.

If you really want to clean things out you can do a closed cycle purge, that I've posted about in other threads.

Start reading here and keep going.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m929-questions.214516/#post-2511392

Long/short is, disconnect fuel line and return line and put them in a clean bucket/container. Pour a cocktail of cleaners- Seafoam, MMO, TCW3 (2 stroke oil), ATF, into the bucket. Add an inline filter. Start the engine and let it run through the cleaners. You end up cleaning all the junk out of it. Results are in the link, from other vehicles (mostly Mercedes Benz diesels).

But, if you just want to fill your filter with seafoam or ATF, it will probably start a bit slow, but it'll run. I try to get whatever I'm putting in there to be the viscosity of diesel, with same or better lubricity.
Just got done reading the other thread and came back to see you summarized, thanks, good call on viscosity for ease of starting too 👍

By doing this method you save the canister filters from catching dislodged junk it sounds like, but also doesn't clean pump, feed or return lines.

Mine has sat for a while *cough* years, so wonder if that also helps simplify the equation while trying to start it again by cutting out the rest of the fuel system.
 

TechnoWeenie

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Just got done reading the other thread and came back to see you summarized, thanks, good call on viscosity for ease of starting too 👍

By doing this method you save the canister filters from catching dislodged junk it sounds like, but also doesn't clean pump, feed or return lines.

Mine has sat for a while *cough* years, so wonder if that also helps simplify the equation while trying to start it again by cutting out the rest of the fuel system.


If the lines are that bad, it's easier/cheaper to replace them.

Motor oil and ATF have a TON of detergents. It will get a lot of stuff, but won't really touch 60+ years of varnish, gunk, and rust, that is in the tank of most deuces these days.

Keep in mind that you can dislodge stuff that can clog things you don't want to clog. It's a risk you take. That's why it's safer to only do a purge with fuel supply line and return line disconnected with an inline filter being used. It continuously runs all the cleaner through, multiple times, with filter grabbing the gunk it pulls off, while simultaneously pushing what it's using through the injectors, cleaning them as well.

Assuming you don't want to replace the fuel line....

I'd first get spin on filters and install them, because you're gonna kill your fuel filters pretty quick if you try and do a whole system purge.

I'd get some fresh (high mileage) oil and high mileage ATF, both which have extra detergent additives.... a couple gallons minimum. I'd dump an entire large bottle of diesel kleen in there (the one that treats 250 gallons) or at the very least, 1 medium size bottle that treats 100 gallons. AT LEAST a gallon of TCW3, a gallon of MMO, and a couple bottles of seafoam/B12.

The oils (and ATF) will provide detergents and dispersants, the TCw3 provides lubricity, the MMO and seafoam are cleaners (with seafoam being a little harsher), and while it's not a miracle cure, it'll pretty much get it as clean as it can get, safely, before you have to take more drastic steps like pulling the tank off and cleaning it.


You're going to spend a good $150 on the above cocktail.

Also note, that's a 'diesel safe' cocktail... That nearly all but the newest diesels can run without issue. The multifuel engine may be able to handle higher quantities of harsher cleaners (like B12), since it contains more powerful solvents that are more readily combustible, more designed for gasoline engines. But, given the age of things, I wouldn't, as it's a much drier product, and you run the risk of not getting adequate lubrication or messing up seals. Another issue, as mentioned, is if it works TOO good, then you have filter screens clogged, and gunk that was stuck on the bottom of the tank, now clogging your filters every 100 miles.

When I first started out on running motor oil, I only got about 100 miles before filter was clogged, as it was cleaning everything out. Each tank after that I'd get longer and longer between needing to replace filters, but I wanna say I went through 3 sets of filters within 1K miles.... because of how well the oil cleaned everything out. Yes, filters so clogged that it was starving the engine of fuel.
 
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ToddJK

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Ordered:

Oil cooler cover (old had holes)
Oil cooler gasket set
Headlight mounts (rubber jobbies)
Glass for windshield (at local GoGlass)
Windshield weather stripping
SuperRope (Grainger 5/8 EPDM @ ~1.15/ft)
Oil and Fuel filters (WIX @ Rock Auto)
Spindle Socket ($40 NAPA)


Delivered:

Boots (no zipper)
Clamps
Spindle washers (new with fresh tabs)
Full axle/hub seal kit
Wheel cylinder rebuild kits


Picked up:

2x Group 27 Marine "starting" batteries @ 800 CCA (same as Auto except for having both posts and terminals). Should fit in my plastic box.
Those Marine batteries deep cycle? I'm unaware of marine battery performance, but from using group 65's that were 850CCA each, once it got below 40° consistently, lacked in power to start the deuce unless warmed by artificial heat. I was able to get group 31 batteries from TSC for $105 ea on sale. I'm more less curious to how those Group 27 marine batteries perform when it gets cooler.

The other guys had good tips on cleaning the fuel system, I'd agree with that. Once it's clean, just maintain the fuel system with some cleaners and anti-algae additives. If you plan on letting the truck sit for some time, I'd definitely treat the fuel tank with some additives so it prevents gunking and algae deposits/growth.
 
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pitpawten

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Those Marine batteries deep cycle? I'm unaware of marine battery performance, but from using group 65's that were 850CCA each, once it got below 40° consistently, lacked in power to start the deuce unless warmed by artificial heat. I was able to get group 31 batteries from TSC for $105 ea on sale. I'm more less curious to how those Group 27 marine batteries perform when it gets cooler.
I'll have to post back when it's colder. My thinking on getting these particular batteries was:

1. Cheaper at $130 ea vs group 31 at TSC (or elsewhere) for ~$200 ea.
2. Fit the plastic battery box, 31s don't fit unless you install at 104° F when the box is soft and squishy.
3. I've got a gear-reduction starter that is supposed to use much less juice to spin the engine over.

We shall see!
 

pitpawten

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keep in mind that you can dislodge stuff that can clog things you don't want to clog. It's a risk you take. That's why it's safer to only do a purge with fuel supply line and return line disconnected with an inline filter being used. It continuously runs all the cleaner through, multiple times, with filter grabbing the gunk it pulls off, while simultaneously pushing what it's using through the injectors, cleaning them as well.
Thanks for all the details and personal experience. I'm really expecting (hoping) not to find too much junk in the system.

About 100 miles before I parked it, I had replaced the tank with an A3 aluminum one that was thoroughly cleaned as was the pump and screen etc. Write-up

When I looked in the other day there is no visible water, slime, corrosion, debris or anything in the tank just a nice bright shiny aluminum bottom, and I dumped in one bottle of PS Diesel Kleen in there with 1/4 full.

I'll have to report back what the status of the system was but I started by making sure that my fuel shut off cable wasn't sticking and the plunger moves in and out freely with the cable from the IP.
 
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pitpawten

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Prepped to windshield frames for paint, new seals and new glass.

One was a disassembled spare that came with the truck the other was the frame I just took off because the glass had shattered and it was rusting. The other one I just took off disintegrated in my hands : /

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I struggled forever to figure out how to get the windshield wiper off which shouldn't have been that hard but for whatever reason I didn't see the nut : /

20230613_200216.jpg

I then was able to bang the top frame off and smash the glass out with a hammer to get it out of the frame. I used a piece of wood to separate the two sections of the hinge so that I could take all the pieces over to the wire wheel

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The frames are slightly bloated in spots where water has gotten inside of the actual channel and there's corrosion inside there isn't really any corrosion to speak of on the channel where the glass goes so I hammered out any weirdness and got it all back in the position

20230613_210839.jpg

Now that everything is roughly wire wheeled and everything loose and all the prior weather stripping and silicone is off of it I'm going to treat it inside and out my bathing it in Corroseal.

That will hopefully convert any rust inside of the channels that I can't get to as well as any rust that exists on it and one thing I didn't know about Corroseal but they have in their FAQ is that it not only acts as a rust converter but is an etching primer on bare metal and well adhered paint.

I noticed that the top frame section that I took off the truck is a bit beyond repair though so I'm going to use a spare frame with glass already in it as a temporary measure and just put new seals on it since I'm trying to get up and running by the 4th and will probably just order another frame top in the future.
 

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cattlerepairman

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Yup, unfortunately that is very common with these frames. I don't look at mine, so I do not have that problem. No, seriously, I rehabbed mine a few years ago and they are almost due for the next round. I tried sealing the glass/frame interface with clear silicone to prevent water from seeping into the channel and rusting it out, but the success was somewhat limited. I think condensation happens, regardless.

The aftermarket replacement frames (for the Korean M35 clones that KIA is still producing) that come with glass are reported to fit well but to be a bit thinner metal than the originals; not much one can do about that; they end up being replacement items when the truck is out in the elements.
 

Mullaney

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Yeah I probably just need to pony up and get a GoPro with a little tripod.

I never want to touch my phone with greasy or dirty hands and it was a little hard to hammer and hold a phone at the same time : )
.
Funny how we've become Video Production Engineers along with the title of Wrench Turner

.
 

pitpawten

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Centreville, Maryland
I received some more parts today including the gasket set for the oil cooler cover which needs to be replaced.

It had me thinking that there is likely a finite supply for some of these more specifically shaped gasket sets and I thought about making some dimensionally correct patterns on the computer and saving to PDF that people could then print out on paper as templates to cut their own gaskets from sheets.

Was thinking this might be a good forward thinking project while we still have OE gaskets circulating.

I was also thinking it would be good to include on the drawing a couple of the key dimensions so that people can make sure it was the right size when printed as well as make note of the thickness and material of the original gasket.
 

ToddJK

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Sparta, MI
I received some more parts today including the gasket set for the oil cooler cover which needs to be replaced.

It had me thinking that there is likely a finite supply for some of these more specifically shaped gasket sets and I thought about making some dimensionally correct patterns on the computer and saving to PDF that people could then print out on paper as templates to cut their own gaskets from sheets.

Was thinking this might be a good forward thinking project while we still have OE gaskets circulating.

I was also thinking it would be good to include on the drawing a couple of the key dimensions so that people can make sure it was the right size when printed as well as make note of the thickness and material of the original gasket.
That's not a bad idea.
 

pitpawten

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Centreville, Maryland
I could use some help I just pulled the rear oil drain plug and about a quart of yellowish water came out

I created a separate thread for that (see link) so not trying to crosspost but figured more people have notifications set up for this thread

 

pitpawten

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Was too tired at the end of the day yesterday to post what I did - it was a long 24 hours since I had found the water in the crankcase : /

The game plan from the other thread was to pull the injectors to visually inspect the cylinder as well as to spin the engine over with the injectors out to evacuate anything that may be left in the cylinders so as not to hydrolock it if one cylinder was full of water.

Spent yesterday pulling the cab heater, windshield washer reservoir, secondary filter setup, oil cooler, injector lines, return lines, and finally the injectors.

There's more to the process and I'll probably start my own thread so that I don't keep spamming this one but here's the before and after pictures (actually just before removing the oil cooler)

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Received a new oil cooler cover in the mail which also has a couple of hairline cracks in it so I just can't catch a break

Decorating for vacation bible school at church this morning but this afternoon will be back at it with a borescope in the cylinders and potentially washing the cylinders down with diesel before replacing the engine oil and trying to crank it to make sure it spins freely
 

pitpawten

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Centreville, Maryland
Pulled eight 1200 r20 Michelin XMLs out of storage and pressure washed them to get them ready for mounting as super singles on some spare rims I have.

The "spare rims" are actually still mounted on old tires some 9 20s some 11 20s all ndt/ndcc however some had filled up with rain water somehow so the suckers are heavy and hard to move

Got a local tire shop that will swap them onto the rims for 20 each (they were even willing to take ones that are currently on the truck off swap the new tires onto the rims and remount them on the truck for 20!) also ordered up some 1200 r20 tubes and flaps to go along with them.

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Also as a quick follow-up since I dont think I mentioned it here in this thread, when I borescoped the cylinders, #5 was full of coolant, all others were nice and shiny clean. So going to re-torque the heads, spin once to clean the cylinder, button back up and run like smoke and oakum.
 
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pitpawten

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Centreville, Maryland
Loaded up and dropped off the tires at the tire place some of the old rims had been sitting in the dirt and we're pretty gnarly but a good pressure washing knocked most of the surface stuff off and man these rims are resilient I feel like I'd be hard-pressed to do anything to him given how thick and tough they are

When I showed up with the tires and rims all the young guys at the shop scattered into the hinterlands because they knew what was coming...the senior guy stepped out and shouted "boys get back here" and they proceeded to unload and smash with a duckbill which is when I made my hasty retreat : )

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pitpawten

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Centreville, Maryland
Picked up a case of brake clean and sundry other items for the impending hub and brake job as well as picked up the glass which was ready from the local glass company.

It's raining today looks like it may continue into Saturday which is putting a serious cramp on my style given that the deuce is outdoors and too high for my pop-up tent to cover the hood so looks like I may be stuck waiting to retorque the heads and fire back up for a few more days (the high humidity also makes it a pain to try and prime or paint anything)!

I also struck-out on sourcing a 5 gallon bucket of Lucas red and tacky anywhere locally, suggestions?
 

Valley Rock

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@pitpawten

Those are some good looking tires

Btw, when you do your brake job try just putting a spray nozzle on a hose and using water to do your cleaning before you use the brake clean, you might be surprised how well it works .
 
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