Good to know. It's a mechanic I know won't screw me on price. And I trust his work. Talk about a rarity.Just the rockers are about $600.00 That is a good price for all that work.
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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1
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rsh4364
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I ran my 1009 out of fuel today,for some reason I thought these had a 30 gallon tank ??? fuel gauge not working so was using miles driven as a gauge..lucky for me a freind was nearby with a few gals. in his bulk tank and got her running,went to gas station filled up and changed fuel filter, as truck sat without running for 4 yrs. before I bought.Thankfully freind is familiar with these motors and also previous owner
CycleJay
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Hi guys..
Oil and filter change got done... Added in 2 quarts of Lucas oil stabilizer into the mix... And have noticed a difference already, it runs quieter, smoother, a
nd better acceleration, We shall see what happens, the longer it is in there.
Just my $0.02 cents...
Oil and filter change got done... Added in 2 quarts of Lucas oil stabilizer into the mix... And have noticed a difference already, it runs quieter, smoother, a
nd better acceleration, We shall see what happens, the longer it is in there.
Just my $0.02 cents...
rsh4364
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gonna change oil &filter this weekend, gonna try this out, also like your nickname for your rig..we call mine Big Sexy !
CycleJay
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Good to hear, an oil change is a good thing to keep your engine healthy...
And you like the nickname of mine? "RumbleLina"?? If yes, Thank you..
Big Sexy is a good one too...
K9Vic
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Allot of money for fixing rust, but if you do not have the tools to do it yourself and want to keep the truck for a long time it is not that bad of a deal. Just make sure when it is all done it is rusted protected well. I have been had my last few CUCV lined with Bullet Liner that is just like Rhino/Line-X. It add like $500 to the cost, but well worth it as the main problem with the floor rust is the rubber mat and moisture. That is not an issue with the liner as water will never get between the mat and the floor.
My M1009 has rusted rockers, but I have a plasma cutter and welder so I am going to fix them myself here soon. The floors are fine, but my rockers have a few rust holes.
My M1009 has rusted rockers, but I have a plasma cutter and welder so I am going to fix them myself here soon. The floors are fine, but my rockers have a few rust holes.
K9Vic
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There are posts on how to prime the system with air compressor with 4psi or one of those small hand pumps from Harbor Freight on YouTube. I changed the fuel filter on a M1028 and did the air 4psi compressor prime on the return line and worked like a champ.
Speaking of thinking you fuel tank is a certain size when it is not, I thought my fuel tank on my 1990 Suburban diesel was the same 27 gallon as the M1009, but turns out it is 39 gallons. So in fear of my fuel gauge not working at the halfway mark I went to fill up and put in about 24 gallons. So to avoid the shock of a $100 plus fuel bill I will fill up at 1/2 tank.
twomorestrokes
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Good idea. That's how I start my 4 stroke snowmobile after it sits all summer. Blow through the return line to pressurize the tank and the sled will start right up instead of cranking the battery dead.
Well, there are more holes than rust. I don't have the tools/know how to do it myself. I plan on using Durabak on the floor, trying to decide on black or OD color. The rubber mat didnt seem too stupid of an idea; the insulation under the mat, I don't know who's bright idea that was.
GreggVA
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Melted my battery terminal trying to start the 1009 on a cold morning. Guess it's time to check the starting circut and plug in the block heater.
Csm Davis
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Re: What have you done to your CUCV today/lately?
Greggva that was a bad connection that melted your post and or your terminal end it is very common on these military trucks for some reason I haven't figured out yet to have loose cables and or terminal ends. You don't need to over tighten them but the way I check is if I can move the wire or terminal any after tightening, if anything moves it isn't tight enough. A properly cleaned and tightened connection will not melt without a major short that will melt the cables on a cucv.
Greggva that was a bad connection that melted your post and or your terminal end it is very common on these military trucks for some reason I haven't figured out yet to have loose cables and or terminal ends. You don't need to over tighten them but the way I check is if I can move the wire or terminal any after tightening, if anything moves it isn't tight enough. A properly cleaned and tightened connection will not melt without a major short that will melt the cables on a cucv.
scottladdy
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Harmonic Damper Replacement
Replaced the original harmonic damper (a.k.a. harmonic balancer) on my M1009 and M1008A1. Used ATP #102059 from RockAuto. Parts are made in China now. These DO NOT come with a new woodruff key. I understand that the Dorman parts are provided with a new key. I did not need new woodruff keys for my trucks.
I ordered a 400mm M16x1.5 bolt, nut, and two washers from Fastenal for the installation. Worked great and the only issue was my impatience waiting the couple of days for the bolt to arrive at my doorstep.
As others have noted, it can be difficult to discern visible issues with your old damper. Both of mine were clearly the originals. Both had no visible issues from the front. But the rear of both had several cracks in the rubber. In addition, the durometer of rubber increases (hardens) over time, essentially increasing the spring rate of the rubber coupling.
I also replaced the timing cover oil seal with Timken part #3945 while the damper was off.
I took the time to clean the timing cover and surrounding parts with the TM approved dry cleaning fluid (a.k.a. Stoddard solvent, Naptha, or Coleman fuel). Be extremely careful if using this as a cleaner. It works fantastic, but has very similar flash properties as gasoline. Do this work outdoors, cold engine, away from structures, do not smoke, fire extinguisher near by, wear gloves, etc.
Total work time per truck: 45 minutes
Results: My family and I noticed much less vibration and noise from both trucks.
Recommendation: Change 'em before your crankshaft disintegrates!
Replaced the original harmonic damper (a.k.a. harmonic balancer) on my M1009 and M1008A1. Used ATP #102059 from RockAuto. Parts are made in China now. These DO NOT come with a new woodruff key. I understand that the Dorman parts are provided with a new key. I did not need new woodruff keys for my trucks.
I ordered a 400mm M16x1.5 bolt, nut, and two washers from Fastenal for the installation. Worked great and the only issue was my impatience waiting the couple of days for the bolt to arrive at my doorstep.
As others have noted, it can be difficult to discern visible issues with your old damper. Both of mine were clearly the originals. Both had no visible issues from the front. But the rear of both had several cracks in the rubber. In addition, the durometer of rubber increases (hardens) over time, essentially increasing the spring rate of the rubber coupling.
I also replaced the timing cover oil seal with Timken part #3945 while the damper was off.
I took the time to clean the timing cover and surrounding parts with the TM approved dry cleaning fluid (a.k.a. Stoddard solvent, Naptha, or Coleman fuel). Be extremely careful if using this as a cleaner. It works fantastic, but has very similar flash properties as gasoline. Do this work outdoors, cold engine, away from structures, do not smoke, fire extinguisher near by, wear gloves, etc.
Total work time per truck: 45 minutes
Results: My family and I noticed much less vibration and noise from both trucks.
Recommendation: Change 'em before your crankshaft disintegrates!
scottladdy
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Engine Idle Speed
Checked and set the idle/fast idle speeds on my M1009 and M1008A1 using: http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-photo-sensor-tachometer-66632.html and the procedures in the TM.
Don't forget the 20% off coupon from HF if you buy this tachometer.
Before using it, I tested the accuracy of the tach on a known good reference, a high accuracy LP turntable (yes, they still exist). It was well within the tolerance limits advertised.
As I had just replaced the harmonic dampers in both trucks, adhering the reflective tape to the dampers was easy. I placed it about 1/4" away from and parallel to the timing cut in the outer ring of the damper.
There isn't a really clear line of sight that I could find from above the engine. So, I carefully utilized from underneath.
Caution! If you use this method, remember you will be close to a number of moving and sharp parts. Be extremely careful. Use at your own risk!
Findings: Both trucks RPM was off. The M1008A1 was about 200 RPM too low at warm idle.
Recommendation:
1) This method and product works fine for establishing proper idle speeds.
2) The TM specified idle RPM is 625. The emissions stickers reflect the civilian specification of 650 RPM. 650 RPM greatly improves idle quality and seat of the pants performance. As I will not need to have the trucks idling for hours on end, the miniscule amount of fuel I would save by lowering the RPM (if any at all) is far outweighed by the perceived feel of the truck at the slightly higher RPM.
Checked and set the idle/fast idle speeds on my M1009 and M1008A1 using: http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-photo-sensor-tachometer-66632.html and the procedures in the TM.
Don't forget the 20% off coupon from HF if you buy this tachometer.
Before using it, I tested the accuracy of the tach on a known good reference, a high accuracy LP turntable (yes, they still exist). It was well within the tolerance limits advertised.
As I had just replaced the harmonic dampers in both trucks, adhering the reflective tape to the dampers was easy. I placed it about 1/4" away from and parallel to the timing cut in the outer ring of the damper.
There isn't a really clear line of sight that I could find from above the engine. So, I carefully utilized from underneath.
Caution! If you use this method, remember you will be close to a number of moving and sharp parts. Be extremely careful. Use at your own risk!
Findings: Both trucks RPM was off. The M1008A1 was about 200 RPM too low at warm idle.
Recommendation:
1) This method and product works fine for establishing proper idle speeds.
2) The TM specified idle RPM is 625. The emissions stickers reflect the civilian specification of 650 RPM. 650 RPM greatly improves idle quality and seat of the pants performance. As I will not need to have the trucks idling for hours on end, the miniscule amount of fuel I would save by lowering the RPM (if any at all) is far outweighed by the perceived feel of the truck at the slightly higher RPM.
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"Good to know. It's a mechanic I know won't screw me on price. And I trust his work. Talk about a rarity. "
Yep. The sheet metal is cheap, it's the labor thats runs up the price.
David
Yep. The sheet metal is cheap, it's the labor thats runs up the price.
David
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CycleJay
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Hello Csm,
I have noticed that too, that connections are some times loose.
But how do you tightern the battery cable ends tight enough to the post, without cracking or snapping them?
Terminal ends on battery cables are made from such soft metal. I snapped one a couple of weeks ago, just trying to tighten it just enough to not move.
Thanks...
Csm Davis
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Re: What have you done to your CUCV today/lately?
Yeah CJ the Cucv ends seem to be more abused than the bigger trucks the stock cucv ends are okay but I like the big truck terminal ends better they are more robust and easy to get and if you break one you don't have to change the whole cable. Also lots of people don't bump them down on the post before trying to tighten them they do have a little but of spring to them so when you bump them down they don't have to bend as far to get tight. Now if you have the money and don't ever want to have to replace the ends, you can buy the aluminum coated copper compression type ends I run and you won't have any more battery problems on the post anyway.
Yeah CJ the Cucv ends seem to be more abused than the bigger trucks the stock cucv ends are okay but I like the big truck terminal ends better they are more robust and easy to get and if you break one you don't have to change the whole cable. Also lots of people don't bump them down on the post before trying to tighten them they do have a little but of spring to them so when you bump them down they don't have to bend as far to get tight. Now if you have the money and don't ever want to have to replace the ends, you can buy the aluminum coated copper compression type ends I run and you won't have any more battery problems on the post anyway.
CycleJay
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Csm,
Thank you for the information.
How and where do I get the truck ends?
Also, please tell me more about the compression type ends you run, pics, links to where to get them, costs, etc?
Thank you..
Thank you for the information.
How and where do I get the truck ends?
Also, please tell me more about the compression type ends you run, pics, links to where to get them, costs, etc?
Thank you..
Csm Davis
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Re: What have you done to your CUCV today/lately?
Almost any parts house and lots of truck stops have the big truck terminals, will take some pics of the compression ends I use the last ones I got were around $12 a end.
Almost any parts house and lots of truck stops have the big truck terminals, will take some pics of the compression ends I use the last ones I got were around $12 a end.
CycleJay
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Csm,
I went to Bing and looked up those compression battery terminal ends. They look good and clean.
But the clamps that go on the post itself, look like regular clamps.
Are they made from a stronger metal that will not snap so easily when tightened?
And the same goes for the truck terminal ends, do they use a stronger metal too?
I do not want to snap another cable... but with the ends on most battery cables, in my case,
just about when I got it tight enough to not move, it snapped.
Thanks.
I went to Bing and looked up those compression battery terminal ends. They look good and clean.
But the clamps that go on the post itself, look like regular clamps.
Are they made from a stronger metal that will not snap so easily when tightened?
And the same goes for the truck terminal ends, do they use a stronger metal too?
I do not want to snap another cable... but with the ends on most battery cables, in my case,
just about when I got it tight enough to not move, it snapped.
Thanks.
cpf240
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CJ -
These are the terminals I used when I had new battery cables made up: http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/OffRoa...-Terminal-and-Boot-Sets-sku-MilTermKit001.htm
These are the terminals I used when I had new battery cables made up: http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/OffRoa...-Terminal-and-Boot-Sets-sku-MilTermKit001.htm
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