Sergeant1983
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5% 3M Tint AKA Limo Tint-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1
- Thread starter DXTAC
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5% 3M Tint AKA Limo Tint
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Looks good, but good luck driving at night.
Vhyle
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Check the vacuum hoses going to the modulator, if you haven't already
Durango_USMC
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Vhyle,
Thanks for the suggestion. I've been reading threads all over the place. Going to look at the vacuum lines when I get a chance and I was also reading the trans filter might be plugged up and causing some issues as well. I'm also looking at a tiny tach which should tell me something about shift points. I've also read that sometimes its hard to feel it go from 2nd to 3rd. It seems like its revving a lot higher at 40-45mph and I get some vibration/shuddering around that speed. But good call on the vacuum lines.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've been reading threads all over the place. Going to look at the vacuum lines when I get a chance and I was also reading the trans filter might be plugged up and causing some issues as well. I'm also looking at a tiny tach which should tell me something about shift points. I've also read that sometimes its hard to feel it go from 2nd to 3rd. It seems like its revving a lot higher at 40-45mph and I get some vibration/shuddering around that speed. But good call on the vacuum lines.
chief1983
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If it goes from second to third at 40+, you'll know. The RPM drop at that point is...significant.
wrex
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Installed the tuffbox center console and cup holders (yes. Important!) in my "new" 85 today. 
Vhyle
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Mine does. It won't shift into 3rd until about 50-55. At that point, it kicks like a pissed off mule.
My vacuum lines are old and leaking too, so I know that will help.
Durango_USMC
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Maybe I need to push it a bit harder? I know I didnt get it past 45 the other day. Well in another case of mechanical ADD... while attempting to inspect the vacuum system for the transmission I ended up at the gen 2 alternator. I think I found my Gen 2 light and voltmeter issue. The orange wire is nearly severed and the stud that the orange and red wires attach to is loose. The nut and wires are frozen to the stud but the stud turns back and forth in the alternator. Think that might be the cause? I also talked to a friend of mine who knows more about the M1008 than I and I may be getting her old (but good) TH400 that is in great shape (shes doing a NV4500 swap) but negotiations will happen more than likely on monday.
epitts
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Did you have to trim the back mount to fit the hump? I am putting one in mine.Installed the tuffbox center console and cup holders (yes. Important!) in my "new" 85 today.
scottladdy
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Installed the tuffbox center console and cup holders (yes. Important!) in my "new" 85 today.
86k10
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Changed the gearing to 3.21 and am loving it. But had to change the front to a 10 bolt since 3.21 is not a possibility for the d60 at least not that i could find. But since it just drives around and occasionally pulls trailer it will be fine.
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I replaced the shocks today. The truck is pushing 97K for miles, and I think the shocks were originals.
They all came off without drama, reminding me why I am SO glad to be out of the rusty states. The backs went on ok, not much difficulty. The fronts were slightly more challenging because of Monroe's use of spacers instead of a long bushing on top- I felt like I needed a couple more hands to get it all in. The right front was the worst, only because the QA department at Monroe let a shock out with the steel bushing not quite centered in the rubber bushing.
The old shocks (Delco) had zero resistance on compression, and not much on extension. I took it out for a test drive afterward and the ride is significantly better. I seem to have lost that weird squatting feeling when accelerating from a stop.
I went with Rock Auto for the shocks, and there's a rebate right now.
FRONT: MONROE Part # 34944
REAR: MONROE Part # 34824
They all came off without drama, reminding me why I am SO glad to be out of the rusty states. The backs went on ok, not much difficulty. The fronts were slightly more challenging because of Monroe's use of spacers instead of a long bushing on top- I felt like I needed a couple more hands to get it all in. The right front was the worst, only because the QA department at Monroe let a shock out with the steel bushing not quite centered in the rubber bushing.
The old shocks (Delco) had zero resistance on compression, and not much on extension. I took it out for a test drive afterward and the ride is significantly better. I seem to have lost that weird squatting feeling when accelerating from a stop.
I went with Rock Auto for the shocks, and there's a rebate right now.
FRONT: MONROE Part # 34944
REAR: MONROE Part # 34824
Last edited:
K9Vic
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On my 84 M1009 I turned down the fuel as it is a 6.5L mechanical pump that came out of the 1 GEN 6.5L turbo and I never put the 6.2L Banks turbo on mine. So I was getting too much fuel and I needed to correct that as I know the guy had turned it up. Doing this also checked to see if the IP is OK looking for rubber diaphragm fragments and it was OK. Took it on a test drive and still a little bit of black smoke when you floor it, but not nearly as much as before. It may need a little bit more tweak, but I think it will be OK.
I used this method, since my pump was from a 6.5L it also had an internal spring on the throttle lever that you have to put back. Not too bad with two screw drivers you can manipulate the spring into the holder slot. What is not in the video is that you should also crank your engine in two 10-15 second cycles waiting 30 seconds between cycles to put fuel back into the chamber leaving the pink wire off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnoct-21vNY
I still have my M1031 that I need to fix, it either as a running problem with engine speed or the transmission is bad. I know my IP is OK as there are not fragments inside it as I checked, but the injectors may be bad and the cause of the resistance in engine speed. It does idle rough, so I am going to dig into that, replace them and go from there before I spend $1000 on a rebuilt TH400.
I used this method, since my pump was from a 6.5L it also had an internal spring on the throttle lever that you have to put back. Not too bad with two screw drivers you can manipulate the spring into the holder slot. What is not in the video is that you should also crank your engine in two 10-15 second cycles waiting 30 seconds between cycles to put fuel back into the chamber leaving the pink wire off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnoct-21vNY
I still have my M1031 that I need to fix, it either as a running problem with engine speed or the transmission is bad. I know my IP is OK as there are not fragments inside it as I checked, but the injectors may be bad and the cause of the resistance in engine speed. It does idle rough, so I am going to dig into that, replace them and go from there before I spend $1000 on a rebuilt TH400.
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Wet Paint.
Vhyle
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I fixed my leaking fuel problem. Drove the piss outta Ebenezer tonight. 
MLuper7
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Fixed my blinker issue, figured out why I'm getting the death wobble, rewired some bad wires, and put new tail light covers on my bed. Life is good
lindyp38
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after reading thru several pages of postings.....i diagnosed and repaired a loose alternator wire that was causing a poor start and not allowing rear battery to fully charge.......what a difference.......thank you to all who posted on the alternator topic.......i even managed to use my multi meter too.........thanks again mario
wrex
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Nope. Fit fine without trimming.
You really need a pic of a toughbox install? Like we haven't seen these a million times already? lol. Ok. I'll take one tomorrow.
Durango_USMC
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Drove the M1008 in the snow
the performance wasn't what I expected. I dont think it even went into 4 high.
the performance wasn't what I expected. I dont think it even went into 4 high.- Status