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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

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TechnoWeenie

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Nice radio. I hope I assume correctly that is a dual band (2M/440) amateur radio. What are you using for an antenna?
D700, 2m/440 built in TNC/APRS.

Single output to diplexer, with 1/2 wave on VHF and separate 1/2 wave on UHF. While most people like the 1/4 or 5/8ths, I'm a big fan of the 1/2 wave for its radiation pattern and the fact that it doesn't need a large groundplane.

I installed the radio/SS2000 into 40mm cans, keeps everything looking nice.

You'll see why I have the name I do when I get everything finished and tidied up.
 

hunderliggur

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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately?

So a 200 amp solenoid melted down running 900 watts of lights? I wish I was good at math....
Watts = current(amps) * voltage

Amps = watts/voltage

37.5 amps = 900 watts/ 24volts
75 amps = 900 watts/12 volts

But I agree, continuous duty or intermittent duty, it makes a difference.
 

Durango_USMC

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Currently trying to knock out a new steering stabilizer... Well I can't quite seem to get it. does the bolt on the piston arm side thread into the big bar? I know my nomenclature is messed up but I can't get that bolt out to get the old stabilizer (which is nasty and hemoraging fluid) out. Also I think I may have found part of my death wobble problem. That big bar in front that the stabilizer bolts to has some twisting movement forwards and back, not sure if thats normal or not. I've got some PB blaster soaking in at the moment and hopefully that will help do something. Its not budging even when I hit it with the sledge a couple times.
 

Mainsail

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Watts = current(amps) * voltage

Amps = watts/voltage

37.5 amps = 900 watts/ 24volts

But I agree, continuous duty or intermittent duty, it makes a difference.
So it sounds like the 40 amp fuse is perfect then. It'll allow the lights at ~38 amps, but blow above 40.

I tested them out this morning on my drive to work and they're some kind of bright, just pointed much too low. I'll run them intermittently until I get the proper solenoid.
 

SandBar

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Mounted 35" Mud rovers to compliment the lift. Got od green shock boots for 2.80 a pair SHIPPED! Next up is to install the green leds.
 

cpf240

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Currently trying to knock out a new steering stabilizer... Well I can't quite seem to get it. does the bolt on the piston arm side thread into the big bar? I know my nomenclature is messed up but I can't get that bolt out to get the old stabilizer (which is nasty and hemoraging fluid) out. Also I think I may have found part of my death wobble problem. That big bar in front that the stabilizer bolts to has some twisting movement forwards and back, not sure if thats normal or not. I've got some PB blaster soaking in at the moment and hopefully that will help do something. Its not budging even when I hit it with the sledge a couple times.
No, it is not threaded in there, just a tapered shaft. I had to heat mine to get it loose. You could try hitting the socket it is stuck in on either side at the same time with two ball pean hammers, like they do to remove tie-rod ends.
 

TechnoWeenie

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I already know that answer, do you really need a Smart Siren? I just use a SW300.
Yes.

All siren tones disabled, airhorn with horn ring, lighting controls, and signalmaster control. I'd need 3 boxes to do what this one box does. Completely programmable, and controllable by a computer.
 

K9Vic

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Yes.

All siren tones disabled, airhorn with horn ring, lighting controls, and signalmaster control. I'd need 3 boxes to do what this one box does. Completely programmable, and controllable by a computer.
Ah.. Yes I have those three boxes noted to do what that one SS2000SM does. Guess I am too cheap to buy one as I already had the other equipment and works for me.
PA300 (modified airhorn only).
Whelen TACTRL1A.
SW300.
 
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TechnoWeenie

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Ah.. Yes I have those three boxes noted to do what that one SS2000SM does. Guess I am too cheap to buy one as I already had the other equipment and works for me.
PA300 (modified airhorn only).
Whelen TACTRL1A.
SW300.
Less space, more functionality. You can get a decent ss2000sm for about 300 nowadays. If you sold your existing stuff, you'd be at least halfway there.
 

Recovry4x4

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Yikes, didn't know folks used that stuff. Just gave away my last 3 PA 300 boxes and new speakers a few months back.
 

Durango_USMC

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Still wrenching on the M1008... Cant get the tapered piston bolt out... PB blaster, heat, hammers, no thing seems to be working.... I hae a few more ideas, so wish me luck. May be getting into the scrap metal business... so far one clamp and and a channel locking plier have died in the line of duty.
 
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SandBar

Full Time Patriot
756
231
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Location
GA/FL
35" tires are on (airsoft internal balance) making the 4" lift look better, and started fixing sheetmetal on the passenger side (you can see where I am repairing the B pillar in two steps). Sagging in the rear a bit, will address that when I do 1" body lift.

cucv lift and 35s.jpg
 

SandBar

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^ Wait, is that a civvy Blazer? Or did you change out the front end?
I get that question a lot. It's a Navy Blazer, has government data plate that indicates CUCV as well. 24 volt inverter, 700R4, no AC, bare interior etc.
 

cshaw07

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Well the past three evenings I've: removed radiator and took it to have boiled, only to find i need a new rad, I made a new battery mount to fit my batteries back under the hood with the turbo and the air filter box, tonight i'm making an air filter box to keep the mud out of it, i rewired my lift pump, rewired all my added turbo gauges and fixed up the wiring behind the dash, i fixed my dash up better than it ever has been, rewired the radio, rebuild an alternator, wired a resistor under the dash to make the gen 2 alt work since it now has a oil gauge in that location, i took the doors and top off for the summer and pressurewashed the interior. It's ready to go get broken again on Sunday
 
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